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Which first: Chenoceax or Cheverny?

Our second day in the Loire Valley we plan to see both the chateaux Chenoceau and Cheverny on one day. We are based in Amboise and have a car. We'd be visiting the 2 chateaux on Saturday, Sept. 28.

I was sure we wanted to do Chenoceau first, getting there before 9:00 am. when it opens to beat the crowds. Then going to Cheverny in the afternoon.

Now I'm re-considering: thinking maybe Cheverny first, getting there around 9:30 am, and being able to see the 11:30 am feeding of the dogs ( not a huge deal, but would be fun). Have lunch there. Then drive to Chenoceau.

I'm wondering at what point the crowds ease at Chenoceau in the afternoon--or if they do at all. It will be a Saturday, but it will be end of September. I DO want about 3-4 hours there to enjoy both the chateau and gardens there. If we drove and got there around 1:30, would we be in the thick of the crowds? We can stay as late as 5:00 or so, but have a reservation at Chateau du Pray for dinner at 7:00pm so can't linger after 5:00 (and will want to go home in Amboise first.)

I am happy to go back to the original plan of Chenoceau first, Cheverny second--just looking at the options. and if there are any advantages to this reversed order. Thoughts?

Posted by
4823 posts

FWIW, we were at Chenonceau in early October, at opening, and had the gardens almost all to ourselves and toured inside at leisure for about the first hour. By the time we left at noon it was absolutely jammed. Even the gardens felt crowded. We didn't go to Cheverny. Instead we went to Chaumont and spent most of the afternoon touring thru the Festival Gardens.

According to this site, they only feed the dogs (publicly) on certain days after Sep 15. Sat isn't one of those days. https://www.chateau-cheverny.fr/en/discover-the-estate/the-kennels.html

Posted by
5697 posts

How about Chambord ?? Reasonably close to Chenanceau and big enough to absorb many tourists. We did both in one day, based in Amboise. Or Amboise Castle.

Posted by
748 posts

Chenonceau first. Get there befiore the buses arrive from Paris. You will not miss anything by not seeing 100 dogs attacking 50 chicken carcases for 30 seconds. (mainly actually, in the afternoon the hounds are more relaxed and friendlier)

It's a good plan and one of our most populat tours - although we have to be doing it Cheverny first most days for logistical reasons

Posted by
873 posts

We did both 3 years ago and Chenonceau was by far my favorite. We did get to see the dogs fed at Cheverny but it be honest the smell there was very offensive.....that many dogs and wow......BUT......watching their handler control them so well as they are about to attack the food is amazing. Chenonceau has such charm attached to it......I was amazed at the incredible floral and vegetable arrangements in the castle and inquired about them....the proctor told me that they put fresh flowers, hand arranged, in Chenonceau every day......and they are incredible. They do unusual things that you don’t see anywhere else......and yes, I am a flowers person. I guess the love and care at Chenonceau was so evident and appreciated. We stayed at Manior Les Minimes in Amboise and it was a great base......loved that sweet charming town and would go by Patisserie Bigot every morning for “road food” before setting out on our castle excursions. We missed Chambord as this was the spring of the Seine flooding....so the moat around Chambord flooded and forced its closing....so we will try again next May. Do not miss Villandry.......still one of my favorites! The house and gardens are magnificent......and again the care is amazing......just wish someone would take care of America’s treasures as well as they do these abroad. Nine full-time gardeners take care of Villandry and it shows!

Posted by
186 posts

These are exactly the kinds of answers I was looking for! Chenonceau first, before it opens then Cheverny (not doing Chambord this trip). CJean thanks for the tip about no dog-feeding on that Saturday--makes it a moot point!

We will have bought tickets for all our chateaux visits the day before at the Amboise TI, allowing us to skip lines which will also help, especially at Chenonceau. Chateau first, grounds/gardens after. Thank you for the valuable input once again! Can't wait!

Posted by
186 posts

Okay, me again....one more time.... I am now for the first time looking into more detail about both Cheverny and Chaumont sur Loire.....and I gotta tell you, Chaumont is winning me hands-down.
I thought Cheverny was a given in combo with Chenoceau. But now I'm thinking of forgoing Cheverny in favor of Chaumont.

I am not a "real" gardener by any stretch--although I love all things green and living--, but I am a visual artist, and the Chaumont Festival of Gardens (photos I am seeing and reading about on the website) looks simply amazing--they are living/growing art installations, essentially.

I'm thinking it's a satisfactory visit of 4 -41/2 hours (including picnic lunch) at Chenoceau, and 3 - 31/2 hrs. at Chaumont. Drive back to Amboise around 5 - 5:30.

Ideas on how to best navigate Chaumont gardens, knowing that we maybe can't do all of it? (I think it is still worth it to me to see whatever we can at Chaumont.) Without doing Cheverny, It's also less driving between chateaux and closer to home base of Amboise at end of day. Thoughts?

Posted by
2123 posts

Hi Suzanne, take a look at Villandry’s website before you decide. The gardens are truly amazing! It’s about a hour’s drive from Chenoceau.

Posted by
4823 posts

Your description of the festival gardens as living art installations is an apt one, since many are very modern/Avant-garde. There are more traditional gardens as well. Although they are quite spread out, you are given a map when you buy your ticket, which makes getting around easy. We spent the whole afternoon there (we had a quick lunch before starting our explorations). We were there in the second week of October, and while some of the gardens were a bit past prime, the trees had turned colour and it was glorious.

Posted by
748 posts

It depends on your interests - Cheverny if youre interested in interiors (the best in the Loire Valley), Chaumont if you're into gardens. If you're into both, Cheverny. (disclaimer - this is based on my tourguide wife's opinion. In 13 years of doing this professionally I have never been inside the chateau of Chaumont, just the gardens. I don't feel I have missed out.)

Please note - any picnice you have at Chenonceau will have to be eaten in the picnic area in the car park. You won't be allowed to take into the grounds.

Posted by
186 posts

Donna, yes, we are doing both Azay de Rideau and Villandry the day before. Wouldn't want to miss either.

Still deciding on Cheverny or Chaumont, and yes, Simon, I DO like both interiors and gardens! So I'm in quite a cornichon (French for pickle :) I did read about picnic area at Chenoceau--sounds like many people use it.

Posted by
12172 posts

Chenonceaux is everyone's favorite - not just tourists, French too. The place is beautiful and includes decent gardens. It has a unique history as well. I think the advice to arrive 30 minutes before opening is the best plan. It's the most likely to be overly crowded.