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What's wrong with Bordeaux?

The RS guidebooks have next to nothing about the city of Bordeaux and the Bearn region.

Rick covers the Dordogne river valley from one side, and his Basque Country material makes a short detour up to Bayonne and Biarritz -- just long enough to say the glitz isn't to his taste -- but the Bordelaise and Béarnaise and Gascogne areas seem to be ignored.

Why?

I'm thumbing through the Michelin Green Guide and the area sounds marvelous.
Is it that RS feels the same way about this area as he does about Malaga -- because I know he doesn't like that city (ruined by catering to British tourists), either, but I've found that there are plenty of 'back doors' that make Malaga great.

Bordeaux seems to be going through the same kind of renaissance that other working port towns have experienced, and is rediscovering its history, too. Is there something I'm missing -- like is the area inundated by cruise ship tours, or some other turn-offs?

I'm also getting curious about Pau and Dax and the countryside around those towns as well. Any advocates here in the RS forum?

Posted by
16895 posts

Rick has said that "Bordeaux must mean boredom in French," but that quick dismissal is directed to the big city, not the whole region. The Michelin Green Guide is a reliable resource for stops that don't fit the limited space in Rick's book. Note that regional versions of Michelin Green Guide cover and give prominence to places that also don't make the cut in their all-France book. Therefore, prioritizing your sightseeing partly depends on how wide an area you want to cover or hop around on this trip. With a car, a smaller radius is usually easier. By train, some long distances can have faster service than some short distances.

Posted by
10344 posts

Laura's explanation covers it. But since I'm already half way through my post, I'll finish it.
This is a frequently asked question here: why do Rick's books leave out certain places.
Rick Steves guidebooks have always been selective, especially in the country level books that cover regional cities.
His books at the national level are not intended, to cover every attraction in a country.
He prioritizes according to what he thinks his readers, with their typically limited amount of time, will want to see.
There are also page limits they are restricted by.
Some of the other guide books have a different philosophy. If you like their philosophy, by all means buy their books for that portion of your trip. But you won't find a better guidebook to Paris than Rick's, IMHO.

Posted by
10623 posts

Go for it. The Gascogne is very popular with the French and valued for its cuisine. If you've got the Green Guide--go enjoy and please report.

Posted by
3696 posts

I understand the picking and choosing according to what the typical tourist will want to see and have time for... but, what I don't care for (either from RS or any of our learned posters here) is a complete dismissal of an area simply because he/she did not like it.... the mentality of "I don't like it, so you won't either" is absurd. Or the famous "Don't waste your time".... without any clarification as to why this might not be an enjoyable location...
I think RS does a superb job of the areas he covers and likes.... but I still happen to love Malaga and think he needed to travel with our group of 15 women (mostly photographers) and see why we loved it!... and one of the women who is a Spanish professor at the U of M and is from Malaga and has a house there could show him a thing or two to enjoy in her town:))
Maybe we can keep those areas 'back doors'!

Posted by
4853 posts

You know what they say about opinions .....

Well Rick has one and since it's his book he gets to express it. You as the reader are free to agree or disagree. There are other guidebook series (in fact, he discusses them on this very website) so it's not like there's a total blackout on any part of Europe. You might start with the 2 guides whose names begin with "F" they are more inclusive.

Posted by
1692 posts

I like Bordeaux. It is an interesting city in a historically important part of France. One of its nicknames is la belle endormie 'Sleeping Beauty. It does have a historic centre but above all it is a working port.

It can serve as a useful base for Aquitaine, the third lion added to the two of Normandy that appears on the coat of arms of England.

Posted by
565 posts

It's spectacularly beautiful, rich in history, phenomenal food and of course wine, and surrounded by much of the same, but don't tell anyone or Rick! Not sure why he puts it on the bottom of the list but likes Rue Cler, finds Cinque Terre quaint, etc, etc, but we are all entitled to our own opinions. If it interests you, by all means, check it out. If you get bored, there's so much to do close by.

Posted by
2766 posts

Thanks for the comments so far, especially the admiring adjectives from Leslie -- just what I want to hear. But I also still want to get any of the 'boredom' or 'sleeping' opinions if they are out there in this community, too, as I make my decisions.
I have the beginnings in mind for an itinerary of a week or so in Bordeaux with regional day trips and a week or so in Basque country with a couple of beach days and/or a Pyrenees day in between. The stretch for me would be that I usually avoid using a car but this area would seem to require one to get out to the wide range of chateaux and eglises that there are. I might actually feel more comfortable renting a maxiscooter some days or joining a wine-and-churches tour van than taking the wheel of a strange car. But that (a motorbike) puts one at the mercy of the weather.
I also want to look further into the tourism conditions -- am I going to run into Brits on holiday at every turn?

Posted by
10344 posts

You'll run into people from the UK, because they're only a couple hundred miles away from many locations in France.
Lucky folks they are.

Posted by
8293 posts

..." am I going to run into Brits at every turn?" Yes, you very well may and they are probably wondering if they will run into Americans at every turn. That's tourism these days. Pity.

Posted by
920 posts

I've taken the Aquitane TGV toward Dax, Pau, Pyrenees. From a scenic standpoint, it's an interesting region. Reminded me a bit of South Carolina (geographically that makes some sense due to proximity to the Atlantic) and sections seemed very sandy soiled with those short crookedy branched trees (apologies, don't know what species they are). Further south you get the interesting mix of snow-capped mountains within view of palm trees. It's unique and worthy of exploration.

Posted by
2766 posts

I want to clarify that my comment that included "Brits on holiday at every turn" is not a knock on Brits, it is about my concern over how crowded and touristy the area around Bordeaux is -- consider that I like listening to Sam Smith sing, but that doesn't mean I want to hear "Stay With Me" every damn time I switch on the radio.

All things in moderation.

Back on the OP, I notice that the Michelin Guide doesn't make a clear distinction between the museums (fine arts, history, etc.) and the "museums" (bait for selling wine and its accoutrements), which is why I want to hear from more travelers about the spots they found worthwhile.

Posted by
2766 posts

@Robert from Portland: thanks for the great link to your blog -- It reminds me both of the tempting charcuterie and of my interest in pursuing more experience with floc de gascogne -- I've had the Laubade and maybe one or two others available here in CA but I'm imagining that there is much more to discover in the same vein there in its home! Any thoughts on that or related liqueurs?