Has anyone one done a large segment, if not all of this path, recently? Would love to have some feedback before we start. We are planning to stay in local lodging, not camp. What was your walk actually like? Is the path contiguous or do you have to do segments on a road? Is it still beautiful since the plane trees had to be cut down? Any tips and information would be welcome. Thanks.
Posted by
Reno, Nevada
1025 posts
Depending upon when you go, and on how far you wish to walk, and also on the stretch of path you want to walk, it could be a grand adventure, or a boring slog. The path is pretty much gravel and dirt, and pretty much continuous for the length of the canal. You will encounter bicycle riders and other walkers, but between towns and locks, it is not really the most interesting of walks, IMO.
When I was on the canal in 2015, I was deeply saddened that so many diseased trees had been felled, and a lot of the magic of the canal was gone for me (it was my second canal trip) although there are parts that are still lovely. We loved the boat trip, but were disappointed in the amount of forestry that was going on. I imagine that there are plenty of small hotels in the towns along the canal, and I know that the restaurants are pretty decent. It's 150 miles long, though, so you might want to pick and choose the areas you are interested in. Bring mosquito repellent and be aware that the water sources along the canal are not potable.
Posted by
OP
Colorado
15 posts
Thank you so much. Your reply contains exactly the kind of information it's so hard to get: guide books and website are out for your business and their designers are masters of omission and generating images that do not tell the whole or the real story. I have heard from boaters that there's congestion on the waterway itself and the rental houseboats are dilapidated these days. Sigh. So many special places in Europe are not what they were. Do you know any particular walks in the south of France that have been really good?
Posted by
Reno, Nevada
1025 posts
On our last rental, we didn't encounter any dilapidated vessels. In fact, we very much enjoyed the one week trip. Candidly, the canal cruising adventure is wonderful because with a max speed of 8 km/hr on the canal, it is peaceful and enjoyable. The food is always at least decent and often very good. Various vineyards set up a box with a bottle of wine and several tasting glasses along the side of the canal. Those who might be in the market for wine are impliedly invited to sample some of the bottle and if it is something you might enjoy, it is a simple matter to walk down to the vineyard to purchase a bottle or two.
The scenery is great from the deck of a boat, a little less spectacular from the path. Should you decide you might want to make such a trip, the self driving boats are the way to go. We overnighted in Beziers, Marseillette (best pizza I have ever had), Trebes, Carcassonne, and other, smaller places. We made our own food from supplies we purchased or tasted the local fare and were never disappointed. Suggest you go onto YouTube and look for videos from the Canal du Midi. If you ultimately decide to rent a boat, we were pleased with this outfit, although their English is rudimentary.
http://www.southfrance.com/boatrentalsfrance/agde/index.html
This company was good to rent from, as well. http://www.minervoiscruisers.com/
The blighted trees took away from the visual experience, especially on the run westbound into Trebes, but there is something wonderful about being on the canal. One moment I will remember forever. We were a group of 6, two married couples and two single women. On the second day out, one of our number came from below deck with a tray that carried 6 full glasses of wine. She announced, "This is a very nice breakfast wine for us to sample." Ah, France.
Posted by
Panguitch, Utah
2708 posts
As the pathway was built for mules, then locomotives to pull barges through the canal, it originally paralleled the canal in its entirety. Some segments have been lost but most of it is intact and now used as a service road by the VNF.
The plane trees have been infected by a fungus that is killing them. The dying trees are being felled to protect the area as replacement planting begins.