Hello. Considering a trip to the D-day beaches in Normandy next spring. What are the advantages and disadvantages of doing it on the D-Day anniversary of June 6? I can imagine there are worthwhile ceremonies that day but how are the crowds? Any advice appreciated.
The crowds on June 6 are huge. Even worse on the major x5 or x0 anniversaries, which aren't applicable to next year. Parking can be a major problem too. Reservations for the days immediately surrounding that date should be made waaaaaay in advance. There is a D Day Festival Normandy that extends for about 2 weeks around June 6, with various events. It doesnt look like the Normandy tourism website has listed next year's calendar of events yet.
We were there once on one of the major anniversaries because my DH was required as part of our national delegation. So we were spared much of the logistical difficulties. But I much preferred our independant visit a couple of years later, when we arrived several days after the official ceremonies.
The roads and parking lots do not properly support the anniversary crowds. Whether or not you are renting a car, you will not have the best possible experience under those circumstances.
You have not asked the FAQ, "Can/Should I do a DAYTRIP from PARIS to the Normandy D-Day beaches?" You can read many past discussions of that, entirely separate question. Have you looked at Google maps? The search box top center will easily lead you to past instances of that second question.
Budget for a guide is major decision point, if you are not touring independently. But the best guides sell out months in advance, even not for June 6 or related dates. And of course you have to pay in advance, and perhaps buy travel insurance for cancellation.
I will preface this by saying I have visited the Normandy D-day areas ten times, eight of which were the D-day anniversary—including the 70th, 75th and 80th anniversaries. And I already have plans to visit next year during the 82nd anniversary. I personally wouldn't miss it, but it does take some serious planning and setting of expectations.
First off, as pointed out, the area just doesn't have the infrastructure to handle all the people who want to come on that week. Lodging and parking in particular are limited. So if you don't already have reservations, you are already late and need to get moving. There are a lot of commemorative events and celebrations occurring all over the areas around and inland from the five beaches. You simply won't be able to make it to them all, and most won't even be officially listed until a few months prior. But they are very memorable and significant life-events to attend. When there is not an actual event occurring, you can still visit most sites without a problem and even park quite close. But other than street food, seating at restaurants will be more difficult too.
You must have a car (during an anniversary or not), and even with one, there will be a fair amount of road closures. Not as many as during a "0" or "5" anniversary when heads of state come, but there are still parades, dignitaries, etc. that will take priority over your travel. For some of the larger events like the parachute drop at the La Fiére Causeway or the fireworks at Arromanches, you must get there quite early and walk quite a distance from where you can park. And the later you arrive at an event, the less parking will be available—if any.
If you or anyone considers doing this on a round number anniversary, you need to start planning now and have to understand that visit by the Presidents of the U.S. or France (and other heads of state) will mean significant road closures including the main highway, for most of June 6th itself. Last year (the 80th anniversary) I spent the afternoon in the square of Sainte-Mère-Église with some friends eating and drinking while the town had a huge party. It was great and I am glad I didn't have to drive anywhere that day. Things are much calmer, but still busy, in the days and weeks before and after. But the whole area still attracts many more tourists than other times of year. Sainte-Mère is the epicenter of the U.S. visits and where the current U.S. military sets up camp for the week. The skies will be full of C-47s and C130s flying low overhead, the bars and restaurants will be crowded with current military, re-enactors, and unfortunately, fewer and fewer WWII veterans. This is true during all anniversaries—not just the "0" and "5" ones. I have been fortunate enough to meet many D-day vets over the years, but to be a visiting veteran of D-day one would have to be over 100 years old and fit enough to make the trip. Sadly, we are approaching the day when none are left.
Finally, the American Normandy Cemetery will be closed to drive-up traffic June 5 & 6. There is an official ceremony on June 6th itself. To attend you need to submit an application ahead of time with the American Battle Monuments Commission (the U.S. government agency that handles and maintains this U.S. soil in France). Two of the three times I applied, I was notified while in Normandy that I was "invited." I had to drive to a remote town to park, and buses picked up al the attendees there and drove them back after the ceremony. It was an all-day event that was totally worth it both times but it is very different than just driving up and seeing the cemetery which you can do at other times.
Thanks for the quick and thoughtful replies! I appreciate the thoughts and advice. You have convinced me to visit outside of the official anniversary celebrations. Thanks for sharing.
The history is always there to be discovered. I’ve been coming to Normandie off and on 0 & 5 anniversary dates included since 2004. Spent much of June 6 2024 at Cherbourg airport watching Spitfires, a Hurricane, numerous C-47s and so on. Finished the day at my local village CWGC Cemetery for a ceremony honoring the dead. How one remembers that day is personal and there is “no must see”or do events least of all the speeches.
The speeches, traffic and hard to find accommodations can be worked around. The battlefields and the endless cemeteries for the dead are always available to contemplate.