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Two weeks in Provence Fall 2016

Planning our first trip to Provence next fall. Working on itinerary for driving trip. We like the quiet countryside staying in B and Bs or small inns in small towns, visiting cities primarily to see ancient Roman ruins, medieval centers and churches. We have found after 15 years driving in Europe that 3 to 4 nights in one place with day trips works best for us.
Would appreciate thoughts on our first draft for this trip--
Arrive from Paris on TVG in Avignon. Rent car.
3 nights-L'Isles-sur la Sorgue. Meeting friends there for first 6 nights of trip.
Spend first full day exploring town and antiques etc market day. Second day visit Orange and drive thru part of Cotes du Rhone wine country. Stop in one town (Gigondas?) for wine tour. Winery suggestions?
Leave 3rd morning for full day trip to Avignon, then to Uzes for 3 more nights with friends.. First day explore town and its market day. Second full day Pont Du Gard and what?
Leave 3rd morning for day trip to Nimes on way to Arles
4 nights in Arles. First day explore Arles and its market day (days just happen this way).
Second day in Carmague. Thinking Aigues-Mortes but maybe Stes-Maries-De-La-Mer as it
turns out that Sunday is the Pilgrimage of Saintes festival there. Is that something worth going to?
Third day visit to Les Baux and St. Remy.
Leave on 4th morning for day trip in Aix on way to Luberon/Lourmarin. Realize this shortchanges Aix.
4 nights visiting Luberon with Lourmarin as base. Our friends will have stayed there the week before and we will follow their suggestions, but any must sees appreciated.
Final morning drive to Marseilles airport for flight to Italy. Map says only 68 kilometers (1 hour) Is that an accurate time for a morning drive from Lourmarin to airport leaving on a weekday at about 8 am?

Is this too much for two weeks? All of the drives seem very short except the Arles-Aix-Lourmarin day, which is essentially a repositioning day. We know how to pace ourselves and rarely get to everything we want to see in each place. (Have to leave something for return visits!) We tend to just go with the flow. The market days and festival just happened to fit. As this is our first trip, we are trying to cover a good portion of Provence so we have an idea of where we might want to come back to. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice.
We have the places to stay picked out in all 4 places with our friends. Any suggestions for restaurants below the Michelin star level appreciated.

Posted by
7175 posts

I've done a lot of what you intend, and your plan seems very thoughtful and well paced.
I love Montpellier, and although it's not Provence, I would suggest it as an option after Pont du Gard.

Posted by
607 posts

This sounds great - I think you've got it covered. Three things that we enjoyed in Provence that I want to call out are the Carrières de Lumières and the little towns of Suzette (Cote de Rhone wine road in RS Provence book) and Joucas (Luberon in RS Provence book). The towns are very charming and the wine that we bought from the the winery in Suzette was very good (I'm not an expert so take that with a grain of salt). The Carrières de Lumières is like nothing I've ever seen before or since.

I really enjoyed Stes-Maries-De-La-Mer. I'm not sure how bananas it will be during the festival but I would lean towards giving it a try. The town has a lot of parking for folks going to the beach, so it might not be as much of a hassle as it seems. That said, I've not been to the festival, so I'm just speculating.

One more thing in regards to Uzes - there was an older post on this board asking for advice on how to spend time in that general area - I thought the responses were helpful so I've included it below:

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/france/languedoc-location

-Matt

Posted by
3603 posts

Orange has just one main attraction; the Roman theater. I suggest you look at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Rousillon, and Carpentras as alternatives or to fill out your day, once you've seen the theater.

Posted by
971 posts

We drove around Provence for two weeks last summer and saw most of the places on your list and I think you have made a pretty good plan, so i will only make small suggestions.
A place that I find very fascinating and very underrated is the ruins of a roman aquaduct and watermill complex at Barbegal, just outside Arlas on the way to Les Baux. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbegal_aqueduct_and_mill
Granted it's not as impressive as Pont du Gard, wich is hard to beat and i am a huge buff when it comes to aquaducts and waterpower, so i might be biased. But it is a lovely aquaduct going trough an olive grove and it's completely devoid of tourists.

In the Luberon Gordes and Roussilon are the main draws and they are very nice, but also crowded with tourists. We found the town of Saignon to be just as lovely, but with a fraction of the tourists.

Posted by
3696 posts

I have also driven a number of times to the areas you are going to visit and it would not be too much for me, but you can always change your day trips at the last minute if you find something more interesting. When you say you like staying in smaller towns or B&Bs in the countryside I am not seeing much of that. Arles is a relatively busy place and I found driving in and out to be a little problematic. I always stay in St. Remy as it is central to many wonderful places as well as the small town ambience that I prefer, and a wonderful market.

I have flown out of Marsailles and to avoid any problems I have stayed there the night before. One time we went to return rental car early and the office was not open and it was difficult to tell what to do. It worked out ok, but I don't mind a nice dinner in Marsailles and not have to worry about any issues for the early plane.

I love the Carmague and have visited a few times. It is definitely a totally different experience, but I loved it and a few times there were tons of pink flamingos. The beach town is charming but have not been there during an event. The Abbey de Senague (sp) near Gordes was beautiful... there is an unlimited number of wonderful experiences (some of the best are just wandering around markets, villages without a plan:)

Posted by
219 posts

I just wanted to say that we were driving that area in early Oct. We stayed in Roussillon one night, very pretty sunset reflecting off the ocre buildings and Fontaine de Vaucluse I loved. Worth a trip from L'isle sur la Sorgue if you have time, imo. Loved the whole area, probably hard to go wrong anywhere. Pont du gard was amazing even in the pouring rain and the Camargue(we stayed in St Maries de la Mer). I went horseback riding our second day there, made my trip:)
We also drove along the coast between Nice and St Tropez before heading inland to Roussillon, Gordes, Bories Village(was so so), Senanque Abbey, Fontaine de Vaucluse, Avignon(just to go to the Popes palace), Pont du Gard, Arles, Camargue....I pretty much enjoyed it all:)

Posted by
6 posts

Gigondas is a winner, but so is Chateauneuf du Pape. We found Gigondas to be more manageable in size, with VASTLY better parking, and more than a few little spots for lunch. Pierre Amadieu winery was a hit for sure.