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Two Night Stay Before 5 Nights in Paris ... METZ or CHARTRES

Hi!

Heading to France in November and while we will spend the majority of our time in Paris, going to add a two night stay elsewhere at the start of our trip. I've narrowed it down to Metz or Chartres. We will arrive at CDG mid morning and then train to the town and stay two nights. I've found lodging options in both that are great, and I think which ever city we do not stay the two nights in, we will visit on a day trip from Paris later during our trip.

I've read lots of posts here (which were so helpful to confirm both are great places to visit)! The Christmas Market in Metz is a huge draw as well as the Illuminary in Chartres (which given the time of year looks to start around 6pm, so make the day trip option plausible!)

I think either way we go will be a great success - just always appreacite the splendid feedback from the forum :)

Posted by
76 posts

I've never been to Metz, but Chartres Cathedral is worth the trip alone. I think it's the most beautiful Cathedral or church in Europe.

Plus, the town of Chartes is very cute and has a lovely market day.

Posted by
2112 posts

Between those two, Metz. I've been in both at least once a year over the past two years. Yes, the Chartres cathedral is more attractive, but Metz is the more attractive city. And Metz at night is very nicely lit also. Metz also has the Musee de la Cour d'Or, which is one of the best museums in Europe. The Christmas market is not huge, but very well done, and strikingly different than those on the other side of the German border, which is only 30 minutes drive away. Stay at the Citadel. Seriously. It's perfect, right near the market, across the park from the Governors house, and an easy walk into the old part of the city or along the river.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/p9i02Wk.jpg[/img]

Posted by
9215 posts

We are spending 3 nights in Metz this fall so haven't had the experience yet but we did an overnight in Chartres last fall to take in the illuminations. It was outstanding. tiny town, one night is enough but it was a wonderful night. The illuminations are stunning; two complete long programs on the front of the Cathedral as well as many other sites around town.

If you stay there have dinner one night at https://restaurant-moulin-ponceau.fr/en/. We had a table with a charming view of the small river below the Cathedral and the service was impeccable, the food excellent and the whole experience a delight. If you dine late enough that it is dark when you leave -- and in NOvember that is guaranteed then you will be able to see the illuminations along the river

The Cathedral is one of the great Gothic cathedrals and the stained glass outstanding. We did a stained glass tour with Malcolm Miller about 20 years ago and it was unforgettable -- so if you are there long enough climb the tower, spend some time in the Cathedral enjoying the art of stained glass.

Posted by
9215 posts

Just realized -- because we couldn't find an attractive apartment hotel in Metz we booked our 3 nights in Nancy with the plan to do a day trip to Metz. It looks like Metz would be the better choice. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good central hotel -- preferable an apartment hotel but for only 3 nights we can make do with a hotel room.

Posted by
2112 posts

In Metz? Stay at the Citadel! Seriously, it's the only place I use when I overnight there. The location is perfect, the rooms are excellent, and the service cannot be beat. https://all.accor.com/hotel/9199/index.en.shtml?utm_campaign=seo+maps&utm_medium=seo+maps&utm_source=google+Maps

In Nancy? I like Hotel D'Haussonville because of the location and the staff, although the rooms are old fashioned. Two of my favorite places to eat are nearby, the street is quiet and I like the local shops. But parking sucks. https://www.hotel-haussonville.fr/en

Posted by
9215 posts

thanks. I picked Nancy because I could book a chain apartment hotel which we like to do for short stays. but the choices in Metz were abysmal -- so we will probably just see about the Citadel HOtel if we make the change -- Metz seems much more charming than Nancy.

Posted by
138 posts

Thank you all for the feedback!

I've decided to stay the two nights in Metz and then once we return to Paris we will day trip to Chartres (can't miss the Cathedral and Illumaniary). Given our 1.5 days in Metz, I think there will be plenty to explore and am thrilled our trip timing will allow us to visit the Christmas market (our two young songs will be with us and I know will enjoy the festitivty!)

Posted by
9215 posts

the problem with day tripping Chartres is that the last train back to Paris is pretty early to catch the illuminations but since you are there in November -- probably it gets dark early enough -- and the train station is a very short walk downhill from the Cathedral

Posted by
138 posts

Great point Janet and I thought of it. The Luminary calendar said anticpated start time of the light displays in November will be 6pm so I was thinking we'd be able to catch a train 8 or 830?

Which led me to another question you might know :) -- is the train service between Paris and Chartres one that would be best to purchase tickets well in advance (for cost)?

Posted by
2112 posts

The Christmas market in Nancy is much better than Metz. Stanislaus Square is actually bigger than Nuremberg's marktplatz. But remember these don't normally open until the last week of November. As best I can tell the dates have not been announced. My guess is around the 27th this year as they usually coincide with American Thanksgiving. All that being said, do go to Metz; you'll have a good time.

Posted by
11217 posts

Chartres is a local train trip. No need to buy in advance. No reserved seats.

Posted by
138 posts

Thank you Elizabether for the train info!

I also need to confirm Paris to Metz is a TGV service (I beleive it is) so is it correct I should book those tickets asap?

@KGC - I have booked the Hotel de la Cathedrale in Metz for now but will check out the Citadel. The central location of Hotel de la Cathedrale was the main driver! I will take a peek at the Citadel.

Also - thank you for your info on Nancy's Christmas Market. Have you traveled between Metz and Nancy? Is it doable for an evening? (I'll check train options but haven't had a chance yet) Always love to hear others thoughts on if it is do able or would be cramming too much. Stanislaus Square looks gorgeous!

Posted by
2112 posts

Metz to Nancy (or vice versa) is very easy by car. I have no idea on how it would work by train, as I always drive. It's less than an hours drive. The Paris - Metz train is the TGV and takes about 1.5 hours. Metz Christmas markets are broken up into a few places; one at the Place Comedies theater, one by the church, and then one in the large plaza by the statue of Field Marshal Ney. You can see a corner of it in this pic.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/nA7FYyl.jpeg[/img]

The thing is the markets are best at night, or late afternoon anyways, as that's when the lights are on and it's dark enough to appreciate those.

i know the hotel you booked, it's on the backside of the covered market, down the hill from the cathedral square. Not a bad location, but bound to be noisy as it's surrounded by bars. It's going to be easy to get around the old town from there, but really that part of Metz isn't too spread out.