Please sign in to post.

Traveling to Normandy and the Loire Valley in December

I am getting a LOT of good general info from Rick's France guidebook about Normandy and the Loire Valley. But I am not seeing a ton of specifics about whether December is generally a good time to go. Are things open? What about outdoor dining options? The reason I ask is that a co-worker just got a terrible case of COVID after returning from Oktoberfest 2023 in Germany. She didn't get COVID on a plane or airport; she got it during an actual Oktoberfest event.
I am perfectly happy with masking up in museums and eating street food outside during the day, but at night I like to sit at a nice restaurant, and this is where my COVID fear comes in. I'd also want to go cider tasting in what I presume will be indoor tasting rooms. Lots of European cities offer outdoor dining these days, but I am not seeing a ton of such options in the dead of December in northern France; go figure. Are there such options, or should I just postpone the trip?

Posted by
7903 posts

COVID ain't the issue. I caught COVID in the dentist office in Chicago a month ago from a person working there. Oktoberfest with all the drinking carelessness I can see catching COVID even easier ; it is just like a bad cold if you have been already exercising eating right and vaccinated and not immunocompromised it is no issue. I don't see a high risk for you going to the Loire Valley and Normandie in December more than ending up on the flight over seated next to a passenger with COVID and catching it. I guess you are masking up on the flight right? You don't seem to see that as more a risk than going to a museum or eating in restaurant in Normandy.

I have been to France 4 times in December January including the American Cemetery DDay beaches on January 2. Except for New Years day everything is open except for a some mom and pop shops but there are non Christian holiday celebrating businesses open to serve the tourists. I found bars and restaurants open in Bayeux in December. Not all of them but there are less tourists also.

Posted by
466 posts

I have responded to this you also posted in the Covid trip report section. To add we visited Normandy in late Sept early October. It was very windy, cool, damp with very changeable weather. It’s a coastal area that’s known for its blustery sometimes nasty weather. Not sure you’ll find many outdoor eating/drinking venues in December? It’s however beautiful and wonderful historical area to experience!

Posted by
10227 posts

Both Normandy and the Loire are gray, damp, bleak with short daylight hours in December. You will not be able to find outdoor dining in December. The restaurants that are open will have few customers, especially if you reserve for 7pm when dinner service begins. Octoberfest and the Loire Valley and Normandy in winter are complete opposites, not comparable.

Posted by
773 posts

Bets. How dare you!! 😂😂😂

The Loire can be grey and damp in December, but it can also be bright, sunny, and almost warm. It's weather, so you pick a day and take your chances.

Almost everything is open during December, but outside dining choices are going to be limited. That's because terrace heating is now illegal in France, so you have to find somewhere where they have good thick blankets.

Personally, I'm much more worried about catching COVID on transport, but then I'm also avoiding all events that attract a huge, drunk, international crowd. Restaurants (so far) have been fine. I've never had COVID, yet I'm eating inside at restaurants a couple of times every week.

As far as attractions are concerned, kayaking and canoe trips probably aren't available, but most of the chateaux and museums are open, with closures only in the smaller, less visited, privately owned places. After (I think) the 8th December some of the chateau will be specially decorated for Noel á Chateaux. We often visit Chenonceau on Christmas day for the decorations and special flower arrangements.

Posted by
322 posts

We visited Normandy right after Christmas and had some days that were grey and some that were not that bad. No rain so it was all fine with us. I do remember early sunsets but it felt cozy having dinner inside without throngs of tourists. (you may not feel warm and cozy if you're worried about Covid)
Two thoughts: if you're that worried about Covid maybe visit in the summer when you can be outside more? Also if you've never been to Strasbourg/Colmar I'd choose that for December rather than Normandy/Loire. Although your weather and Covid issue will be the same there, if not more, as it's colder.

Posted by
5 posts

Thank you so much for all the thoughtful replies. We're immunocompromised, so it's likely that this trip is out... for now.