We just spent our winter vacation in Paris from January 3-11 (we return home to California on Saturday the 11th). Here are a few thoughts on visiting Paris during the strike:
We are very, very glad we came. The trip was wonderful. What made it work for us was a happy, enthusiastic party of four eager to experience as much as possible, while simultaneously willing to adapt to circumstances.
I had no fears about safety at all. General law of strikes: if you see tear gas, go the other way. Never came up, so no problem.
The best thing about our trip was the sharp drop in tourism due to both the strike and the time of year. We walked right into the museums, sat in centrally-located cafes and bistros watching locals and hearing only French, strolled major sights at our leisure, and spent an exceptional day at Versailles with only a few hundred other visitors instead of jamming together with thousands. The minimal crowding was truly invaluable; we felt that we were visiting Paris instead of Parisland (™).
The worst thing was the lack of public transport. The Metro and bus lines were essentially unusable, as they were only working on a 1/3 schedule and only during rush hours, when they were jammed. As a result, we got around by taxi, boat, and foot. That said, we had no problem using taxis once we figured out the system, and it was pretty economical for our group - 15 euros for a taxi vs. 8 euros for all of us to take the Metro. The Batobus turned out to be a great deal at 13 euros for a student or 19 for an adult for a two-day pass that covers central Paris.
If you plan to visit during the strike, please consider the following:
- A relaxed attitude is your primary asset. Traffic times will take longer than average and venue hours will be shorter than usual. See inconvenience as an adventure. Be flexible, be flexible, be flexible.
- Remember that the French are not striking to inconvenience you personally. The government has proposed raising the retirement age from 62 to 64. You'd be unhappy, too.
- Mobility is essential. This is a bad time to bring grandma in her wheelchair.
- Strongly suggest at least one member of your group be reasonably competent in French, so you can read daily strike updates and transit schedules, and communicate with transit staff.
- When the authorities say the strike will paralyze X neighborhood that day, they’re not kidding. Go somewhere else.
- If you’re on a budget, put a little more money into transit. We ate cheap and used the savings to get around faster. That extra ten bucks put into boat or taxi fare will save you a five mile hike.
- Don’t plan on doing a lot of late night clubbing and sightseeing; the venues will probably be closed, assuming you can get there. It is, however, a good time to try the nearest wine bar and maybe brush up on your French murder mystery films.
Frankly, the locals were delighted to see us and gave us none of the impatient, tourist-weary attitude you’ll get during the high season. Waiters and shopping clerks were friendly, taxi drivers gave us history lessons, and even the police were polite.
I hope this helps you in your decision about whether to visit the City of Lights. We had an unforgettable trip and can’t wait to return.