Nice is my favorite place in France, and i’ve been visiting it for 25 years. Two of my absolute favorite restaurants have, unfortunately, closed - one because the couple who owned and ran the small bistrot have retired, and the other because of the Covid pandemic.
But one classic restaurant is still going strong with a Nisçoise classic. For socca, a thin flatbread made from chickpeas and served with sauces, go to Chez Pipo, a couple of blocks from Nice’s Old Port. The menu’s not huge, but also includes their version of pizza, and pissaladière, kind of a very French pizza with caramelized onions and you-wouldn’t-know-this-was-in-the-topping-but-it-makes-it-perfect - anchovies.
Also near the Old Port, we’ve always enjoyed L’Uzine. The crowd at the outside tables seems to be all smokers (it’s France), so we sit inside.
The splurge we had last July, and it was TOTALLY worth it, is Jan, with a Michelin star. The chef, named Jan, is from South Africa, and there’s a South African twist to the French-style menu, including many of the available wines. When it’s time for the cheese course, you’re shown across the street to the restaurant’s Cheese Room, then back to your original table in the main restaurant for the remaining courses. Book your reservation as soon as you can.
One other suggestion for Nice, if you’re interested, is a cooking class at Rosa Jaskson’s Les Petits Farcis. She’s originally from Canada, but moved to France 30 years ago. She’s taught French cooking and market tours since then, and has authored a cookbook. Any class will include delicious eating at the end.
