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Town on the Cote D'Azur to Stay

Already planning next year's trip and have most things figured out but still undecided on where to stay in this location. Figure the knowledge base here would be a good place to ask.

This would be July so I am expecting large crowds on the roads, towns and beaches.
Not my choice of time for this region but is ideal for other stops on this trip.
Plan on arriving via TGV train from Paris to Nice and only giving 3 nights to the Cote D'Azur. Next stop is not far in Provence (town of Moustiers)
I could rent a car once arriving or could wait until after but I do need a car for Moustiers.

Will be traveling with our will be 5 year old daughter so a pool would be a nice benefit but may be able to get away with no pool if there is a close beach. Also staying in a town with a parking lot or town center at the bottom and long walk up to lodging with her may not be a good plan. I can carry her and walk and hike if needed but that gets tiring.

We like scenery, short hikes, picturesque little towns, cobblestone streets, alleyways, anything medieval, usually prefer sea views from higher up than beach level. Wife likes shopping, both small local places and trendy French and luxury brands even if not purchasing, Sometimes I am out after dark or before sunrise to see areas minus the daytime crowds. We can find someplace to eat rather easy, not foodies especially with our daughter will want to eat earlier and faster than most others.
Really not trying to do much in these days, perfectly fine just picking a couple of things to do and leaving other places out of it, save them for another time if we love it enough to return.
Beach is of some interest but I see it as no more than a possibly go once for a half a day activity. If lodging has a pool maybe we completely skip the beach. Views of a nice beach though would be appreciated.

No museums, no history sites just scenery and things that are pleasing to the senses.
Villefranche right now is my top choice but very little lodging seems available in the lower part of town where the train is easy to access as in the beach. Only 1 hotel I think, it looks nice but is pricey and has no pool. I would not rent a car if staying here. Some nice places with pools and free parking high up above town (still in VF) but then I envision issues having to walk up, so would rent a car if staying in one of those places but would driving around be awful in July? Could I drive and park at a beach? drive to Monaco? if bad ideas than we should stick to a place near a train station I think.

The town of Eze looks great for us and was my first thought with it's commanding views but constant inclines could be an issue with my daughter, beach is far and finding a pool likely not going to happen.

Is there a boat type trip that would allow us to see some towns from the coast??? if so might be interested in doing that and in the plans below skipping the half beach day.

Thinking for 3 nights. First night settle in, walk around the town we are staying in. Say VF for example.
2nd day: bus, train or drive to Monaco and visit that country/town ; rest of day maybe spent in Eze and VF.
3rd day: beach for half a day or boat trip, explore Cap Ferrat area and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild gardens there.
4th day: check out
So skipping Nice, Cannes, Saint Tropez, Menton, St Paul De Vence and many of the other tourist hotspots in an effort to keep the plan less hurried but still scenic.
If I include one other place to see, which one should it be?

Our next stay assuming I book the place I am looking at in Moustiers does have the hill town, medieval vibe so maybe we don't need that for this stop and should think of the best place for our daughter?

I looked at Beaulieu Sur Mer, Menton, Antibes and Juan Les Pins as well and would consider those but they didn't jump out to me.
I will be the only one planning in the family (surprise trip)

Posted by
11570 posts

Eaulieu, Juan Les Pins and Antibes are very worthy of consideration. Farther to the west, just beyond Saint-Tropez, Rammateulle has sea views from it's perch in the hills. Beautiful beaches nearby, medieval feel.

Posted by
28084 posts

I liked Menton, but one of its advantages is its two large gardens. I don't think they'd work well with a young child, because they're built on hillsides. The other thing about Menton is that it's a bit larger than Villefranche-sur-Mer.

A lot of the towns have attractive gardens that are on flatter ground than those in Menton.

Wherever you stay, you'll probably be able to schedule a day-trip somewhere on the right day (usually it needs to be in the morning) so your wife can experience a Provencal market.

I saw Beaulieu-sur-Mer only briefly as I walked from the train station to the Villa Kerylos. It's a pretty town, very squeaky-clean-for-tourists, but it didn't seem to be very old. Perhaps I just didn't hit the right section of town, but I thought it seemed less interesting than most of the other Riviera towns I visited. I gather that you're looking for a small town rather than a place like Nice (whose weekly antique market is very, very good). Perhaps Antibes?

The train covers the coastal towns quite well until you get near St-Tropez. You usually need buses to get up into the hills. If I were just making one trip off the coast, I'd try very hard to avoid fooling with a car. Traffic can be bad, and from what I've read, parking is often quite a challenge.

Posted by
3551 posts

Nice is a vg central spot with vg transportation options. I have enjoyed Villefranche sur la mer for a walkabout, Antibes is also a gd base and on train rte. In your situation i would stay in Nice. Realize the beaches on cote de zur are cobbled. But great lovely views. Get your car rental when u leave Nice or somewhere on train rte on yourway to Provence area. I have driven many times in this area but if u do not have to it is much more relaxing to wait till u reach Provence. It will be pricey in Nice but it is peak season and the convenience andnoptions are worth alot. It will be crowed so book asap.

Posted by
713 posts

Traffic is quite high in July and you'd be best taking the train, the bus, and the boat rides. Then, pick up your car and continue your journey.

Villefranche can get quite packed in the summer, especially the tiny beach. It's peak season. There are apartments higher up from town (but sometimes in the summer you can't even drive close to the center -- it gets blocked off) and it can get quite steep, even to go to dinner. (We looked for a 2nd home there). Consider Antibes again, for the town and the market. Nearby Juan-les-Pins has even better beaches -- the ones in Antibes can get quite packed.

Many people get enamored of Monaco but the reality is that it is often is a check-list item. Reconsider a visit in Nice if not just for the Old Town and market, or a dinner.

Posted by
7175 posts

Atmospheric Antibes.
One way to Nice and Monaco.
The other to Cannes and St Tropez.
Well served by train.
Wide sandy beach.
Historic with artistic connections.

Posted by
10629 posts

Agree with the last three: Nice or Antibes, lots of traffic, and tiny parking spaces if you can find one, even in the garages. Since Moustiers is your next stop, You should go for transit conveniece on the coast, and a hotel pool for your daughter after sightseeing.

Posted by
1829 posts

Many thanks for all of the helpful replies.
I looks like the majority think Antibes would be a good fit and also that for VF to work I would need be near the train and carless which would also mean no pool.

I plan on taking a close look at my options there.
As a side benefit, it looks as though most if not all of the TGV trains from Paris leaving in the morning make a stop here so my train ride into the area would be 30 minutes faster if choosing Antibes.
Since I was planning on arriving this method anyway. Once you get over 5 hours ; even 30 minutes can feel like a big difference.

Seems a good place to not have a car and hope I can find lodging with a pool but still not far walk from train as a stony beach may not be the best option. Think we would prefer to look at beautiful beaches and water rather than actually lie out on the rocks.

I probably will plan on taking the train into Nice for dinner one evening and see part of the waterfront area / old town there.

I do plan on checking out a market while in Provence area at some point in one of those towns.

Question: I was thinking on our way out after these 3 nights of stopping in the town of Grasse (thought my wife would enjoy a stop/tour at one of the Perfume factories there ; heard about one on a Rick Steves Podcast) so stopping there for lunch before reaching our next location which is Moustiers. Where would I be best to find a rental car location or a couple of options so I can compare rates?
I am sure I could train into Nice and rent but that is not really on the way.

Posted by
713 posts

@mreynolds: FYI, the beaches in Antibes and Juan-les-Pins are sandy (but many are private/pay, and require a reservation in July).

There are car rental locations right in Antibes: Sixt, Avis, Hertz (and others). You can also rent at the airport, which is between Antibes and Nice. The train (a bit of a walk from St. Augustin station). or bus can take you there. The airport is notorious for long summer lines at the car rental places. If you are a member of an affinity program it helps a bit.

If you go to Eze, there are perfume places as well, including craft your own. You can make the drive to Grasse if you want to replicate the RS experience.

There is a Provencal market in Antibes, every day but Mondays. There are also craft and flea markets, so you'll be covered.