To Louvre or not to Louvre?

with 5 days, I would do at least one of those--but go one of the evenings that they are open late.

By all means, skip what you jolly well please. If, as you say, you are not into art, then the Louvre and Orsay are not for you. If, however, you would enjoy a museum or two not dedicated to art, have a look at the websites for the Nissim Camondo and the Jacquemart-Andre, both housed in former mansions and quite fascinating. For what it's worth, with only 5 days in Paris I wouldn't spend one day in Versailles, especially if you don't like queues and crowds. Minority opinion, needless to say.

I'm an art history person, but I would not go to a museum because I felt I should, and frankly, I tend to look at the less popular works when I go to museums. Art is everywhere, particularly in Paris. I wouldn't recommend going to a museum out of guilt. Try a smaller, quicker museum if the guilt overtakes you; such as, Rhodin's musem. Why not watch the movie, Camille Claudel, before you go? You'll either hate the movie or it will give you some incite/interest. Paris is a museum so feel no guilt! In fact, while on vacation, feel no guilt at all. You might find a good patisserie has a lot of works of art! It think it does! Wray

PS. I ditto Norma's post.

My husband and I have enjoyed the Musee d' Orsay several times. We like not only the art work but also the small restaurant on an upper floor behind the clock. We have made an obligatory trip to the Louvre but not since our first trip to Paris.

We have enjoyed several other "smaller" museums. For example, they are the Marmottan, the Rodin, Cluny, a museum of Jewish art in the Marais, Napoleon's tomb, Musee du Quai Branley and even a museum dedicated to awards and decorations presented by various countries to individuals. We went to awards museum since it was very close to the d'Orsay and we couldn't get tickets there. There are also museums at the Jardin des Plantes plus gardens and the zoo.

Now that the Picasso is open, that is on my agenda for the next trip. I also want to go to the Institut de Monde Arabe and the Mosquee de Paris.

I realize that you only have five days in Paris but my suggestion would be to pick a topic in which you are interested and then look for a museum. I am sure you can find one. You might want to invest in the DK "Top 10 Paris" for a few off-beat suggestions. My husband often wonders where I come up with the different things that I want to see.

Have fun!

Why is choosing to do what you want to do a question? If you are not 'into art' why go to art museums? The place to develop your taste for it is at home at your leisure. I personally love art and we spent 4 days at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg but I don't much care for beaches as a way to spend the day, so we didn't go to the beach when we were on the French Riviera. People should do what pleases them on their own vacations.

If you don't care for art, lines and crowds...why spend a day at Versailles? There are ways to avoid the lines and crowds at the Louvre, not so much at Versailles. With advance tickets, good timing and the museum's audio guide (that knows where you are in the museum) you can tour the highlights.

I think I should clarify, it's not that we're trying to avoid crowds and lines, we're going to Europe in high season, we know that's a given. Also, with both of us being teachers, we're used to in-your-face crowded chaos at all times LOL :) We know that the obvious solution is to focus on what we want and what we're interested in and we will, but we know how beautiful and iconic these places are and want to make sure that we won't regret anything. This is our first time in Paris and unfortunately we will not be able to return for a while.

Big thank you to everyone thus far for your help, advice, and suggestions!

Elaine - I really like the idea of going in the evening, thanks for that!

Wray - We couldn't agree more! We know we'll be exposed to beautiful works of art no matter where we go, we can't wait to really explore Paris. We'll add that movie to our list as well, thank you!!

Bev & Norma - Thank you so much for all of the alternative museums and suggestions, I can't wait to look into them. It's very much appreciated! I'll definitely be checking out "Top 10 Paris" for more suggestions!

Personally, I would commend and thank you for choosing not to go to a museum that doesn't interest you. I have spent a number of days in the Louvre, but I really enjoy art and it's a major motivator for my travel. I have always been puzzled, and in some cases really annoyed, by people who obviously have no interest in enjoying the art, but only block the view so they can have photos of themselves in front of it.

Regarding Versailles, I suggest you look at the website of Vaux le Vicomte. I found it to be a far more enjoyable and interesting experience than Versailles. After the king visited it, he took the architect, landscape architect, and decorative arts person from Vaux le Vicomte to oversee the creation of Versailles. It's a less crowded, quieter, and far more accessible version of Versailles. Also, unlike much of Versailles, VLV is still furnished as though it were being lived in, which really enhanced my appreciation.

It can be visited as a day trip from Paris by train; during high season a bus runs from the train station to the Château, although I was there in shoulder season and it was a short taxi ride. I stayed overnight in the town because I wanted to enjoy the candlelit evening, and then be there the next day when the fountains were running. It was also really enjoyable to rent one of their golf carts to explore the gardens.

Vaux le Vicomte is my favorite chateau https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/09/20/vaux-le-vicomte-our-last-chateau/
and I heartily concur with the last suggestion to book that rather than Versailles. On the other hand, Versailles is really something and the gardens in particular are worth the trip. We did the chateau 30 years ago and the gardens again this past October choosing a fountain day. The lines to get into the garden were almost non-existant in October (the lines for the chateau daunting -- we would never wait in a line that long). The fountain days in the garden are really wonderful and the ticket allows you to see them in the morning when they are on, then head for the rest of the estate during the afternoon and then return when the fountains come on again in late afternoon.

Another spot to consider is Basilica St. Denis -- it is reachable on the metro and well worth an afternoon to see the tombs of the Kings of France. Quite stunning.

Many of the great museums of the world are horribly crowded with people who are not much into art, but who are part of a tour group, or who think "it would be a crime" to skip them. Do yourselves and the world a favor and only visit what really appeals to you.

Don't overlook the enjoyable museum of decorative arts, operated by the Louvre, but a few blocks away and a lower admission. Only about 25 paintings, the rest gorgeous objects and sculpture. Fashion museum adjacent included, I think.

I agree. Do your thing. I will say, however, that there is more to the Louvre than just art. The building itself is pretty cool and amazing to walk through, and there are all kinds of cool t things beyond paintings and sculptures. I got lost trying to find the exit, and ended up in the basement where I stumbled upon a sphinx and a giant medieval castle wall. Napoleon's apartment rooms are upstairs, and giant Phoenician gateways somewhere else. That being said, if that sounds unappealing to you, then skip it.

My favorite art museum is the l'Orangerie - Monet's giant mural water lily paintings. They are amazing, and you can get in and out of there in an hour or less, so if you're looking for a less intense experience, you could consider that.

Sherry & Janet - Thank you so much for suggesting Vaux le Victome, it looks absolutely amazing and definitely something we'd be interested in. We're considering adding on another day to this trip where we could add in another day trip, would you suggest visiting both Victome and Versailles, one day for each? Your blog post was very helpful, Janet. And thank you for the Basilica St. Denis recommendation, that is right up our alley and something I know my wife will love, we'll be adding that into our itinerary!

Rosalyn - We get it, we wouldn't want the places that we hold near and dear to us to be impacted by those who have no interest either. Thanks!

Tim - Thanks so much for the suggestion, we'll look into that!

Jamie - Everything you described sounds very appealing and are things we actually would be interested in. Thank you so much for your help!

I have to admit that after doing more research on the Louvre, I'm very fascinated by the building itself and everything it has to offer. I know I probably should have done this research before posting, but a big part of my research is hearing other's opinions and experiences and I really appreciate everyone's help and advice. This is a big 6-week backpacking trip for us all throughout Europe, and so its been difficult to really extensively research every sight we want to see because there's so many. I think we will do the Louvre, and might skip Orsay for this trip.

Cody,

If you're planning to visit the Louvre, I'd suggest prioritizing on which areas you might want to see. The facility is huge, and visiting the Richelieu, Sully and Denon wings in one day will be impossible. Most people focus on the Denon wing, which is where Mona Lisa is located, along with some incredible Italian art. One other point to mention about the Louvre (and this also applies to Paris in general) is that you'll need to be vigilant to avoid the pickpockets and scammers. They often take advantage of tourists who are focusing on the art work and not paying attention to their pockets.

Depending on which sights you want to visit there, you may find a Paris Museum Pass would be a good idea. In addition to saving money, it will help you to avoid the queues to buy tickets, which can be enormous. Also, if possible it's a good idea to pick your days to visit both museums in Paris as well as Versailles. The Louvre will be busy on Monday (as Versailles in closed) and Versailles is usually hectic on Tuesdays (when the Louvre is closed). I can tell you that from bitter experience!

I had been to the Louvre a couple of times on previous trips but didn't realize the Code of Hammurabi was there until someone on my Rick Steves tour mentioned it. I knew the exhibits such as the Napoleon lll's apartments, the foundations to the Medieval Louvre, etc were there. This last fall on one day, I purposely stayed just in the Richelieu wing which was very much crowd free but had really interesting exhibits. Then, since I had the Museum Pass, another day I went back to try and find some of the areas I had seen on previous guided tours (mosaic floors with a tent-like structure over it) and still managed to avoid the crowds heading to the Mona Lisa. There were still some things I never re-discovered!

Do some looking on the Louvre website to see if anything strikes you but don't feel obligated to go. I did spend part of the day I was in the Richelieu wing looking for a shot out the window to get the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre that I had seen on a Paris blog. Yep, I found it!

If you don't go you should at least walk thru the Tuileries Gardens to get the iconic view of the Pyramide.

I used to plan travel around glimpses of travel sights. e.g. 30 years ago I saw a picture of Vernazza on a calendar and said 'hey let's go there' -- and we did and hiked the trail before Rick Steves turned it into just another tourist trap. Alas he has good taste and many places he discovers are very fragile and don't stand up well to masses of tourists. It was amazing when it was largely pristine. In Burgundy and the Loire we would follow tourist attraction signs that are just everywhere in rural France -- this led us to Cheverny chateau which was a delight and also on wild goose changes through the countryside without ever finding the chateau - but enjoying the scenery - or in some cases to a fenced off ruin. I saw a picture of Volpaia about 25 years ago and when we visited we were quite literally the only tourists there that day (same with the Cinque Terre -- us and a class of 14 year old Italian kids and their teacher on a field trip). We found the Saturnia hot springs waterfall -- free in a public park in Saturnia -- by seeing a picture on a web site. Mostly locals and one of the most amazing sights and experiences of our travels. And we went to Etretat because it was so often painted by the impressionists and I will have to say it is every bit as picturesque in reality as they found it.

Guide books are good and next best are books like 'An Hour from Paris' that introduce less visited towns and sites for visits and best of all are out of the way spots you find in some weird way -- wondering what that place in the movie is like, or a picturesque spot on a calendar or ad. Some little visited places we have enjoyed in Paris are St. Denis (the most under visited amazing tourist site in the Paris area), the Promenade Plantee, and Musee Albert Kahn gardens at the St. Cloud Bologne metro stop (line 10) You will find your own

Fountainbleau might be a good option , might not be as busy as Versailles , nice little town , a smaller chateau , good for a day trip about a 40 minute train ride then a 10 minute bus ride to the chateau

Quel horreur -- not to visit the Louvre when in Paris! ;-) But really, it's your trip. The building is amazing and you'll surely see it from many angles as you walk and ride across the city to and from other places. The medieval foundation and the Napoleon III apartments are quite interesting without being "art" exactly, but with five days total I wouldn't go inside just to see them.

Versailles wouldn't be on my list for a five-day visit either, but go there if it calls to you. Hard to spend less than a whole day there if you want to see the Trianons and Hameau as well. Be strategic in choosing a weekday when the Louvre is open so it won't be as crowded. I haven't been to Vaux le Vicomte but want to see it based on the raves from posters like Janet and Susan and others.

You might enjoy the Carnavalet Museum (free) in the Marais -- a museum of Paris history, not laid out as effectively as it might be but full of interesting exhibits (some of which might be considered "art," but many not). Another often-overlooked gem is the Archeological Crypt under the pavement in front of Notre Dame -- what's left of the original Roman town, well-signed and easy to visit while you're seeing the cathedral. I agree also with Janet about St-Denis.

Your problem, in five days, will be what to leave out -- even if you skip the many art museums. Don't assume you'll never be back, pace yourselves and leave time for strolling, café-sitting, a Seine cruise (dinner isn't worth it though). And don't worry -- no one here will rat you out for skipping the Louvre! ;-)

You could easily spend twice that much time in Paris, filling every minute and not going into a single art museum. The biggest joy in Paris is just being there, whether it's a stroll along the Seine, people-watching at a sidewalk cafe in the Marais or the Latin Quarter, sitting in a serene little park in the middle of the hustle-bustle or the nave of an ancient church. Paris Walks has a wide range of walking tours. Paris Greeters is another way to see a bit of the city. Fat Tire Bikes has good bike and Segway tours.

You wrote: I have to admit that after doing more research on the Louvre, I'm very fascinated by the building itself and everything it has to offer. On their website, look for Thematic Trails. These are self-guided tours of the Louvre. One is "From Palace to Museum" and in a couple of hours (maybe 3) will take you through the museum from a historical/architectural point of view, but also happens to go past most of the top sights. You can avoid most of the lines by using the Carousel entrance. Usually the museum is less crowded in the evenings (Wed, Fri). Worst day is usually Monday, because the Orsay is closed.

Instead of the usually long line into the Sainte-Chapelle, go to an evening concert. Get there early and you'll have time to walk around and take photos before the concert begins.

My husband and I aren't really into art either (well, paintings) - but...we did enjoy the Louvre. The sculptures, the artifacts...there really is a whole lot more there than paintings. But whatever floats your boat - we've been to Paris three times and haven't darkened the door of the D'Orsay (yet...next time maybe). Honestly, the only badly crowded area we found was around the Mona Lisa...everything else was pretty manageable. But it was mid-Sept. Versailles on the other hand - as beautiful as it was - oh so crowded and hard to enjoy. Well, the gardens were enjoyable but the main palace was packed.

Also, we had no line issue at all at Louvre. We got our tickets from a kiosk in the mall area (carrousel entrance) and pretty much walked right in. Security lineup was short. But maybe that was a fluke.

I can't tell you how many people told us we couldn't miss Florence when we went to Italy. We didn't go til our 3rd trip. To each their own!

And we didn't go to Rome till our 4th trip to Italy and have spent months (over time) in Florence. To each ones own.

Note that the Louvre is full of interesting things that are not paintings on walls e.g. the artifacts from the Middle East (Assyrian Lion gate reproductions and such) and an original Hammurabi code plinth etc etc. Hardly anyone is ever in that section of the museum. And right around the corner are the astonishing Houdon sculptures including several of US founding fathers. And one can also get a look at the medieval foundations of the Louvre palace itself.

We love art but still find we enjoy it more in bite size bits. We had a membership in the Louvre for a couple of years and visited Paris for two months at a time. We would go once or twice a week in the evening and spent a couple of hours on one thing e.g. just Egypt, or just Northern European paintings etc etc. It is a satisfying way for us to enjoy art and also a good way to introduce yourself to great art without death marching by dozens of paintings.

Nothing is worse than being surrounded in a museum by people who aren't truly there because they love the art--you can always tell, they're disinterested and shuffle along, not looking and generally just getting in the way, wondering where the snack bar and bathrooms are, or, worse, taking selfies every 2 steps to prove that they were there. Lots of good advice here already--plenty to see in Paris without ever setting foot in a museum, and that there are many types of museums so perhaps you'll find one that's not about art you'll want to visit instead.

I'm in the midst of planning my first visit to Paris in May, and have narrowed down my museum choices to specific art that appeals to me personally. To be honest, the Louvre may not make the list, or maybe just a section. Picasso, Rodin, d'Orsay, and the Pompidou are must-sees, for me.

Cody, it's your trip and you only have 5 days. Do what you want to do and who cares what anyone else thinks? If you don't spend time in the Louvre, you'll spend it on something else that is a priority for you.

I've been to the Louvre a number of times but on my last trip, in the height of summer, I was there for the first time with my boys and it was so crowded and really unpleasant, huge lines for the ladies room. It was my least favorite thing we did on that trip. We would have been better off skipping it.

When it comes to the Louvre, I'm 0 for 3 in trips to Paris ... maybe next time. This is your trip on your money, do what interests you. While you are at Versailles, don't miss the Queen's Hamlet, it is a nice respite from some of the excesses of the rest of the palace.

If you like buildings, see the interior of the Opera House - amazing, and you wouldn't feel like you are stuck in an art museum. And, you might enjoy walking around the interesting Montmartre neighborhood - watching a few artists painting but being outside with great views of the city.

The Opera Garnier (the old one north of the Louvre, not the new one at Bastille) is a great idea. There are some English-language tours. Also Paris Walks, which couldn't be easier. Another idea -- the sculpture garden surrounding the Rodin Museum, near the Invalides. The museum itself has just reopened after a major remodel, and is likely to be crowded. But you can get into the garden for a couple of euros and wander among some of his best monumental sculptures in pleasant surroundings, with the bonus of a nice café. Another way to enjoy art without inflicting it upon yourselves! ;-)

Skip the Louvre but defintely go to Orsay (my opinion). The Orsay is worth seeing simply for the beauty of the building interior itself. It is a beautifully designed facility. Buy your tickets online, in advance, or buy a Paris Museem Pass if you decide this Pass.is economical depending on other sights of interest to you. Either way you should then avoid the line to buy tickets at the museum. Get to the museum early, a bit before it opens when crowds are smaller. We were there in September a few years ago, got there at opening time,used the Paris Museum Pass and walked right in. Went directly to Van Gogh exhibit on upper floor and had it to ourselves for 10 minutes before anyone else arrived.
Arriving early, at opening time, is best for many of the big Paris attractions. There were long wait lines at Notre Dame Cathedral at midday. We went one morning at opening time and, again, walked right in with no crowds.
The Louvre is simply too massive and sprawling for me.

I would like to posit another thought and approach . First , a disclaimer - Although I have read this thread , I may have missed a reply and would tender an apology if I did . You say that you are not really " into " art , but say that you appreciate it and understand its significance . This is really not an " either / or " equation . My question is " Would you like to approach art in a gentler way ? When I first started to appreciate classical music as a child , it was through compositions that touched my emotions without regard to their status within the art form , It was the same with painting and other fine arts. As I aged , my tastes evolved , and the more I learned , the more I desired . --- SO , here is one further idea - visit the Marmottan Museum in Paris , go early , you will have it mostly to yourselves . The Monet paintings are gentle , the balance of the collection is accessible and varied , and it would be a good beginning if want to try expanding your understanding . Learning about any of the fine arts takes time and patience , you cannot absorb these things in a crash program ( like a six hour marathon at the Louvre ) . When you leave , wander through the Jardins du Ranelagh to the Rue de Passy and then to the Eiffel Tower , have a coffee on the way ( a bit of pastry won't hurt , either ) . See how it affects you ! Best wishes

I wouldn't go if you aren't into art. Be sure to investigate getting a Paris Museum passhowever. It does give you the opportunity to see many other sites and avoid the lines. One of the little mentioned benefits of getting a Paris Museum Pass is that when you are looking for a restroom, you can always find a clean and free restroom in a museum. That may not sound like a big deal, but it sure came in handy for us. Also, when you are in Versailles, I strongly recommend renting a bicycle for touring the gardens and visiting the Hamlet. It was sure a lot of fun to bicycle down all the paths. It beats walking. Also be sure to go up to the top of Notre Dame for a great view of Paris.

I really love museums, particularly art museums. I can spend days exploring a really large museum. But parts of the Louvre and Musee d'Orsay just absolutely sucked. Why? Because insane crowds of people lined up at the entrances and security checkpoints, coupled with the crowds of people snapping selfies in front of the well-known art (Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, etc) but not taking a single moment to actually look at said artwork with their eyes and not for 7 seconds through the lens of their iPhone camera before they shuffle out in search of the next spot they can "check-in" on Facebook to show the world they were there. I would be confident in betting that the majority of those people, if polled and answering honestly, would say they are "not really into art".

It's not a crime if you skip these places. Do yourself (and those of us who really do love art) a favor and just skip it. If you must get that photo for Facebook, swing by the exterior of the Louvre and take a picture in front of the glass pyramid in the courtyard. There are so many other things to see in Paris that you can occupy weeks without ever setting your foot inside a single museum. Do the things you genuinely enjoy. Don't feel like you will kick yourself later for skipping out on it just because it appears in a guidebook. If anything, you might kick yourself for having spent those hours shuffling through an art museum and missing out on using that time for something you really love and enjoy (boat ride? picnic in a park? biking along a canal? drinking wine at a sidewalk table and people watching?). On my first trip to Paris, I later wanted to kick myself for having wasted time taking a walk through Rue Cler. So many more interesting market streets in Paris, I felt that one really just was not living up to the hype.

Ken - Thanks so much again for your advice, it's always helps a ton. I've looked into the Paris museum pass you've mentioned and it looks great, it really has a lot of what we want to see. And thank you for the info about the wings of the Louvre, it's nice to know in advance what we would like to prioritize. I'll remember about the pickpocketing as well, thanks!

Dick - Thanks so much for all of the great suggestions! The Archeological Crypt under the pavement in front of Notre Dame sounds really cool and definitely something we're interested in. So does the Opera and Rodin sculpture garden, just added to our list! You're right, it's tough with a limited amount of time to balance everything, especially because we do want that time to just wander Paris and simply immerse ourselves in the city, like you said.

Chani - Thank you for the tour suggestions, a bike tour sounds like a lot of fun! And thank you for the Thematic Trails suggestion, that sounds like it would fit well with us and our itinerary. Really appreciate your advice.

Nicole & Janet & Eef - That is so true, to each his own.. I think a lot of times, especially when it's your first time in certain places, you tend to harbor guilt for not going "where you're supposed to", but that's definitely not the mindset I want to have. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences!

Steven - It's hard to explain because we appreciate art for what it is, we think it is beautiful and fascinating for the historical significance that it holds, but it is not a hobby of ours. We're very much into history, but do not know a lot about the history of art. When we go to the Louvre, I'm sure we will love it and really take a lot from it (except selfies of course!), we just aren't coming with a vast understanding of it. Thank you for the other museum suggestion, we'll definitely look into that!

Yosemite - I love the thought of a bicycle tour at Versailles, how fun!!

Ceidleh - I agree, I don't want to have any regrets on this trip because I did something out of obligation. Equally, I would be frustrated too if a sight or attraction that was near and dear to me was mobbed by others who don't share that feeling. I also share your annoyance of obsessive facebooking. In my 12 times to Europe, I've gone technology-free every time and it's always the best decision I've made. I'd rather see my dream destinations through my own eyes, not an iPhone screen!

I had wonderful time at the Louvre sailing by the mobbed rooms, using an elevator in search of a quiet area. I found a legacy collection designed to always remain together - all eras, the only impressionism in the Louvre - a small, perfect time. Then I made my way past some rooms which didn't interest me except for the guard who was seated, head back and gently snoring. Find your own favorite memories and don't apologize.