Time in Avignon and Aix-en Provence

Ellen, we spent a couple of days in Aix last year after our Best of Eastern France tour. Here are some notes from my trip report that may help you out:

I won't do a blow-by-blow description of our time in Aix, but we had a wonderful time. We visited the Gramet Museum – a real eye-opener. I learned a lot there about an artist and collector (Gramet) that I had never heard of. There is another related museum we also visited: Gramet XXe that focuses on 20th century art. And the best was the exhibit of pieces from the New York Guggenheim at the Hôtel de Caumont Centre d'Art. The Caumont was worth visiting even without the Guggenheim exhibit; highly recommended.

And just wandering around we happened on some great performances, including one that appeared to be music students performing excerpts from an opera – it was a mezzo and an oboist, with occasion support from some little girls. Enchanting!

Aix is a great town for walking and wandering. Lots of museums, lots of narrow back streets, lots of street musicians, lots of markets, and lots of places to eat. We learned to go to bakeries for lunch – grabbing a sandwich to share was a relief after some of the huge meals we had on the tour. And everyone we met was warm, friendly, and welcoming.

While in the area Arles and Marseilles are worth visits. Arles has a Roman arena which is still in use, and Arles is where Vincent Van Gogh painted the much of his most famous masterworks such as "Starry Night". Marseilles has an ancient harbor on the Mediterranean and the island prison that the "Count of Monte Cristo" escaped from. They can be reached by Train.

I'd second the votes for Arles and Marseilles. I would add to that Nimes for the Roman ruins. Arles has a great museum for Roman antiquities. Marseilles' church on the top of the hill has a beautiful interior and thought-provoking damage from the battle for Marseilles on the exterior. It also has some good restaurants and the market definitely has a north-African vibe. Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct/bridge is also a day trip from Avignon. In addition to the aqueduct itself, there is a very interesting museum on its construction. It can be reached by public transportation and is worth the schlep, but it is easier to reach by car. Avignon itself is worth a couple of days. I loved the market, Les Halles, and there are many wonderful restaurants as well.

Aix has a really nice Tourist Information office. You can pop in there for a free brochure for their self-guided Cezanne Walking tour among other things! The staff are very helpful and of course are multi-lingual!

My favorite falafel spot in Aix is Tita! The staff is so nice - they also speak English fairly well and are very accommodating. I was in there once, then went back the next day and although they were full and had a reservation for the single table that was open, gave it to me if I didn't mind being done in 45 minutes (which is more than I needed anyway). So sweet of them to recognize me! I think they just moved but I can't really tell if the old teeny shop (on Rue Coronne) has been kept open as well. The address is 6 Rue Des Bernadines for what they call "Big Tita".

I'd do at least a day trip to Arles - very easy on the train and the station is right near the Rhone and the spot where Van Gogh painted one of his starry nights. They have a wonderful museum there of Roman antiquities although it is a bit of a walk from the city center. I loved the Arena and theater there. There is a small Roman Bath that's been uncovered and a nice cathedral with a lovely cloister.

https://www.arlestourisme.com/en/our-monuments.html

I wasn't crazy about Marseilles - but I just did a day trip there from Arles. It just seemed big and crowded. YMMV. View from the cathedral atop the hill was nice but regret that the guide we had didn't mention that that was the position the Germans pulled back to when the Allies landed in this area.

I would spend a day de-jetlagging in Aix, but other than that would not spend extra time in either place.

Instead, stay in Arles or Nimes, or, if you will be renting a car for apres velo, a smaller town such as St Remy or Isle. It's just a better use of your time.

It's a great time to visit!

I’m wondering if the bike tour covers sights in the area. Depending on the tour itinerary, Avignon does make a decent launch pad for the area. There are quite a few places to see from there. The TI offers an array of minibus tours that I found handy and a good value. I did not think much of Avignon itself, a day would be fine. I though Arles was a lot more interesting, with better things to see and do. So, how many days to add on is pretty dependent on how far you want to dip your toe in around there.

Aix en Provence is worth two full days, although I’ve spent many more than that. If you would like a special walk in the countryside east of Aix, the Bibémus Quarries are beautiful. Red and ochre rocks, forest, view of Mont Ste Victoire. Cézanne painted there and stayed in a small studio. The site is protected and can only be seen in an organized tour, through the Aix Office de Tourisme.
http://www.cezanne-en-provence.com/en/prepare-your-visit/individual/visit-carrieres-bibemus/

On the outskirts of Aix is a museum-quality memorial at the former Camp des Milles, where Jews and others were confined prior to being sent to even less salubrious places during World War II. Virtually all the explanatory material has been translated into English. There's bus service from the center of Aix.

As already noted, there are many worthwhile side-trips to be made from both Aix and (especially) Avignon. I suggest picking up Rick's guide to southern France so you can prioritize and use your time on the places that will mean the most to you.