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Tidbits from 2 weeks in Bordeaux, Nearby countryside, a brief blip of Paris

We had an amazing trip. Some takeaways:
1) on the main toll roads, TotalEnergy fuel stops do not take major US credit cards such as Mastercard. Other fuel stops did, but be sure to have cash on hand just in case. Tolls were easy to handle with cash.
2) Bordeaux is a lovely city worth about 2 days - add more days for exploring Cap Ferret, St. Emilion/wine country, or other day trips by car or train. In St Emilion, be aware that only certain wineries provide tours each day so plan ahead if you have a particular one you really want to see. (We happened to choose Chateau Pressac which had stunning views, a great tour, and fabulous wine for the tasting. We even met the owner.)
3) Martel is an excellent launching spot if you have a car and want to day trip the Sarlat region, Rocamadour, even as far as St. Cirq Lapopie. We stayed just outside the town in a lovely quiet airbnb and went to the Wed and Sat markets for a fun tasting and purchasing experience with the local crowd. The town itself is worth a look and the entire area is abundant in perfect small towns.
4) If you are not a city person, staying outside Paris was TOTALLY worth it (there were several on here who said not to do it). We had an airbnb an easy 10 minute walk followed by a 35 minute train ride to Paris center. Part of the deal was a ride to the airport so we wouldn't have to deal with trains and luggage. Paris was wonderful and we enjoyed every minute but we truly loved going "home" to quiet residential lodging. Totally a personal preference kind of thing of course that worked for our personalities. The extra hour on either end of the day was not a big deal. We even had a nice chat with a gentleman from the area. In a day and half in Paris, using loads of public transport, we saw the major sites Sacre Coeur, Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre exterior, wandered various neighborhoods, ate at more off the main drag restaurants. It was just the right amount of time. On public transport, we paid a bit more than needed for the Navigo Decouverte so we would not have to worry about reupping plus we were staying out in zone 5. Public transport, if you have used it in any major city was easy and at rush hour, naturally, crowded. Biggest issue was twice our cards were not accepted and we had to find a help booth at the station we were at - they would look at the card, see it was active and hand you a paper ticket to get through. Statistically 2 fails in 1.5 days isn't great - I assume like all electronic systems, it has regular glitches which is unfortunate. I would still recommend that card if you plan to go outside the inner circle of Paris for its convenience, just be aware of what to do if it doesn't work.
5) We found Peche Merle to be an amazing cave as it had both cave attributes along with drawings. We had reserved an English tour about 2 weeks in advance just in case (for early October that was more than adequate we were told after)
6) We would go back to the countryside again - at least in late September, it was quiet, peaceful, and just a joy to visit village after village, relax in nature, and otherwise just slow down as an American traveler.

Wherever you go, whenever you go - make it what you want !

Posted by
596 posts

Thank you, Lorilei, great trip report and it sounds like you had a wonderful time. The Peche Merle detail really interests me. Seeing one or more of the ancient caves is a bucket list item for me. And I hope to go as much off season as possible. Was the tourist traffic there heavy or light would you say? Thanks again.

Posted by
14726 posts

Thanks from me as well! It sounds like you had a great time and tailored it to suit your needs.

I loved Pech Merle. I think it might have been my favorite particularly because I felt such a human connection with the hand print decorations and in particular the fossilized foot print. Wow, that blew me away. I've seen dinosaur tracksites here in the US but somehow the human footprint from 10,000 or more years ago really had an impact on me.

Anyway...thanks so much for letting us know how your trip went!

Posted by
39 posts

@ Lyndash: We were there in late September until early October and at least out in the countryside, it was very quiet. There were definitely tourists everywhere but in the lesser advertised spots, it was very quiet - we have lots of pictures with no one in them. We found that area also to be dominated by European tourists NOT Americans which was nice for feeling like you really were away.

We were sure to hit "busy" spots like Rocamadour or the 3 talked about near Sarlat early or late (though I admit that after all the fantastic less noted villages, Rocamadour was a short stop for us and we didn't feel like we needed more time). Even Paris just felt like a regular city to me as far as crowds - obviously crowds near the big attractions but nothing felt overwhelmingly crowded and it was easy to escape the crowds. Example, Sacre Coeur - we got there later than planned - around 11 or so and we only waiting in line about 15 minutes to get in. After we walked about a few blocks away and found a quiet restaurant on a side street away from the hustle and bustle of the church.

Posted by
39 posts

@ Pam: I specifically chose Peche Merle as our one cave based on people's reports about it and the fact it had both cave features and drawings. The foot prints were pretty wild too!!! I agree it was such a great experience (and shockingly NOT pricey nor 'theme-park" feeling nor busy)

Posted by
14726 posts

"I agree it was such a great experience (and shockingly NOT pricey nor 'theme-park" feeling nor busy)"

Oh yes...this too. I visited in Oct 2021 so even less busy at things had not recovered from Covid. Even though we had tour groups in front of and behind us, it didn't feel like we were being pushed.

Plus I am in to barefoot, minimalist shoes and it was so interesting to see those ancient non-shod feet in the mud, lol!!