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Thoughts on mid-spring France itenerary, part deux?

Hi gang,
Thank you for all the previous feedback. We have taken all of it into consideration, and come up with a revised plan, which should be a bit slower and without first day driving (well, less than 30 minutes).

Cliff notes of previous post... My wife and I are planning a trip to France from April 22-May 11. This is our first trip with our son, who will be about 6 months old when we leave. Tickets are already booked, so our dates and flights (in and out of CDG) are already locked in. However, nothing else is.

Summary:
Amboise 4 nights
MSM 2 nights
Bayeux 3 nights
Rouen 2 nights
Paris 7 nights

April 23:
Arrive at CDG ~1:15
Train to Tours (Gare de St-Pierre-des-Corps, 2.5 hours)
Rent car, drive to Amboise (30 minutes)
Sleep in Amboise

April 24:
Drive to Chateau Chenonceau (30 minutes)
Tour Chateau Chenonceau
Drive to Blois (45 minutes)
Walk around Blois
Sleep in Amboise

April 25:
Drive to Chateau Cheverny (45 minutes)
Tour Chateau Cheverny
Drive to Chambord (30 minutes)
Tour Chateau Chambord
Sleep in Amboise

April 26:
Drive to Guedelon (2.5 hours)
Tour Guedelon
Drive back to Amboise (2.5 hours)
Sleep in Amboise

April 27:
Drive to Chateau Villandry (45 minutes)
Tour Chateau Villandry
Drive to Mont St-Michel (3.5 minutes)
Sleep in MSM

April 28:
Sites in Mont St-Michel
Sleep in MSM

April 29:
Drive to Caen (90 minutes)
Sites in Caen
Drive to Bayeux (30 minutes)
Sites in Bayeux
Sleep in Bayeux

April 30:
Guided tour of D-day sites
Sleep in Bayeux

May 1:
Any missed D-day sites or Bayeaux
Sleep in Bayeux

May 2:
Drive to Honfleur (90 minutes)
Walk around Honfleur
Drive to Rouen (1 hour)
Sites in Rouen
Sleep in Rouen

May 3:
Sites in Rouen
Sleep in Rouen

May 4:
Drive to Giverny (1 hour)
Tour Monet sites
Drive to Paris and drop car off there (1.5 hours)

May 5-11
Sites in Paris. We haven't planned these days out yet.

Fly home May 11

My own thoughts on this...
Is going to Guedelon worth the 5 hours of round trip driving? My wife is not convinced, but I think it could be cool.

Days 2-4 in Amboise are all interchangeable.

Would it be better to skip Villandry and see something else on the way to MSM?

Not sure either of us have much on an interest in Honfleur. Is it worth the stop? Other places in the area that might be better?

Also thought of just going straight from Bayeux to Rouen and only one night there. If we did that, we would probably add a night to Loire or Paris. If we added to Loire, we would probably try to check out other villages/cities as opposed to more chateaux. If Paris, we would probably add in another side trip in addition to Versailles.

Posted by
6713 posts

I think you're smart to avoid one-nighters, though you might find two nights at MSM to be more than you need. I can't speak to Guedelon, haven't been, but five hours' driving is a lot and it's in the "wrong" direction from the rest of your trip.

Leave several hours between your scheduled CDG arrival and the TGV you want to take. While the station is right at the airport, you want to allow for delayed landing, immigration lines, and baggage claim (with an infant I expect you'll have checked bags).

Five chateaux (presumably including Blois, one of my favorites) seems like plenty. You might not want to take them all on, which would be OK too. The big appeal of Villandry is the gardens, which might be more fun for the baby as well as you, but if the weather isn't good you might pass on that one.

Honfleur has a nice harbor and interesting double-nave church, but if neither of you is especially interested there's no need to go there.

If you end up dropping one or more nights anywhere along the way, I suggest adding them to Paris. There's more than enough to see and do there, and you'll probably all sleep better with more nights in the same place. Consider an apartment in Paris (check for the 13-digit registration number in the listing to make sure it's a legal rental).

Have a wonderful trip and hopefully it will be just the first of many for your new family!

Posted by
10627 posts

Much better, but I'd put Guedelon on the front end and shift the itinerary by 1 night.

Day 1. Arrive, take train to Auxerre to sleep, Visit Auxerre. The French National Railroad has a train + car rental deal, or try AutoEurope.com.
Day 2. Pick up car and drive to Guedelon. Either return to Auxerre to sleep or continue on to Amboise.
Days 3-- Continue as planned except the Guedelon round trip.

Two nights is a lot at Mont St. Michel.

I felt the same as Dick about Honfleur. I also liked the Eric Sätie Museum in Honfleur, a bit surrealist.
Etretat is between Honfleur and Rouen.

The Blois chateau is one of my favorites, too. I've toured it twice.

If you do go to Villandry, there is a restaurant in a cave: Le Gosier Sec. I liked the food; my French husband and son loved it, particularly the housemade charcuterie. It's the gardens at Villandry worth visiting, so if it's raining, it's a wash out.

EDIT: since you are traveling by car and want to see specific sites, Guedelon and Mont St. Michel, one-nighters are just fine. Having hard and fast rules is unnecessary.

Posted by
677 posts

A couple ideas for sights that are a bit different than the others on your list:

Chateau de Pirou (cool moated castle between MSM and Bayeaux). And Chinon castle. Both of these are old and a contrast to the other LV chateau you have listed.

Sounds like a great trip!

Posted by
14741 posts

I have been to Guedelon and it was neat but not for a 5-hour drive. I also like Bets' suggestion of putting it on the front end of your trip.

I concur with others that 2 nights in MSM is one night too many. This was not my favorite place but I know others love it so go for 1 night there. I also don't much like one-nighters but in this instance I'd rather move on.

Posted by
3643 posts

I did not find most of the chateaux rivetingly interesting. The two exceptions were Loches and Angers. The latter contains the fabulous tapestry, “ The Apocalypse.” I understand that a modern tapestry has been added since our visit 25 years ago.
I also was less than thrilled with MSM, too many tacky souvenir shops and restaurants. The view from the mainland is, in my opinion, better than that close up.
If you take a day from MSM and eliminate Guedelon, you would have time to stop at some places in Brittany on the way from the Loire. There is a Thomas Cook publication, “Brittany & Normandy: Your Guide to Great Drives,” which you might find useful.

Posted by
402 posts

normally I avoid 1 nite stays but the RS book recommends just one nite at MSM. That is what we did and it was enough time. You're doing what RS suggests, arriving later in the day as the crowds thin. Go see MSM, get dinner, enjoy it after dark as well. Perhaps back briefly in the morning for a few more photos. No need for a 2nd day.

I'd add a nite in Bayeaux and go visit some of the Calvados countryside where some of the prettiest villages in France are (the Green book by Michelin has driving routes). Or add a nite in Rouen and do a day trip to Etretat and the coast; note, though, that Rouen is a busy city so check into parking at your hotel.

One other tip is for Honfleur. There are parking lots on the outskirts of the harbor and historic area. Some lots you prepay for the time you expect and put the ticket in your windshield, some you pay for the time you used when you leave. We went to the former and wish we had another hour or two; in the books it didn't seem like all that much was in Honfleur and we'd be there less than 2 hours but the harbor is nice to stroll around, lunch is relaxing, and interesting shops in town. So my advice is go to a lot where you can stay as long as you want.

Posted by
10603 posts

I agree with Pam and Rosalyn that MSM was underwhelming to me. It was crowded (we were there in late September) and full of souvenir shops and some overpriced restaurants. We spent 3 nights in Bayeux before spending the one night at MSM, just off the island. It was more impressive from a distance. In retrospect I would have rather spent that extra night in Bayeux. From MSM we went to Amboise for 3 nights, then to Burgundy for 4 nights. I was hoping to stop at Guédelon when we were driving from the Loire to Burgundy and just couldn't make it work. Every trip I've taken to Europe (11 since 2006) has required trade offs and having to skip places I'd really like to go. Such is the nature of traveling.

Posted by
4132 posts

Guedelon could be both cool and not worth 5 hours in the car.