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Thoughts on a few sites in Dordogne area

This September 2022, we will be in Beynac for 3 nights. AA recently changed the time of our flight home so we will have only 2 1/2 days there. (Had planned on 3.5) We are going to Grotte Font de Gaume, du Sorcier, Rouffignac and hopefully will take the Dordogne canoe trip. I need thoughts on...Gouffre Padirac, Rocamadour and the Monkies Forest. Should we plan to have dinner one night at La Roque - Gageac?? I will be grateful for all your thoughts!

Posted by
26840 posts

There are several Beynacs in France. I'm guessing you're staying in Beynac et Cazenac.

Do not plan to make a short stop at Rocamadour. Either skip it or allow enough time to park, walk down to the hyper-touristy main street and then go up to see the religious buildings. It is absolutely not worth it if all you have time for is that strip of tourist shops and cafes. Of the options you listed, that's the only one I've seen.

I liked Sarlat-la-Caneda even though I hit it on the day of a deluge. It know it gets a lot of tourists on market days (much suppressed on the day of my visit due to the weather), but I really liked wandering around the medieval town. In my esperience, most visitors don't wander all that far from the parking lot.

Posted by
76 posts

It has been many, many years since I last visited La Roque-Gageac, but dinners at La Belle Etoile remain a cherished memory. From what I have read it is still a favorite of many others, as well.

Posted by
7981 posts

The best dinner we had in the Dordogne was at Hotel Roseraie in Montignac which is the jumping off place for the Lascaux recreations which I would not miss.( the hotel has changed hands and I don't know if the standard is what it was -- it was our introduction to fine French dining). We had a terrible meal at La Roque Gageac but probably at a different restaurant than the last poster. There are a number of hotels with good restaurants in this area. The one at Domme - Esplanade as I recall -- is outstanding and the views from there are stunning.

I would not bother with Rocamador -- it is beautiful at a distance but like Mont St. Michel totally clogged with tourist traps and tourists. If I had to pick one of those two torture chambers it would be MSM which is one of the most stunning sights in the world. It also takes a long time to get there. With so little time, I'd prioritize the caves you want to see and the canoe trip which is terrific -- and you can choose the length of your run. The area upriver of La Roque Gageac is filled with gorgeous chateaux and towns. If you still have time, visit one of the chateaux in the region.

Posted by
479 posts

I will add another voice to the chorus concerning Rocamadour. Skip it. It's beautiful from across the valley, but there's very little worth seeing in the town in my opinion.

Posted by
3586 posts

The Gouffre du Padirac is pretty spectacular. It’s so deep that you have to take an elevator down to the bottom. You go through on a boat with a guide.

Be sure you know the entry procedures for the painted caves on your list. Some require reservations; others are 1st come 1st served. These have also been changed from time to time. At the very least, check websites
.

Posted by
610 posts

We were at gouffre de Padirac yesterday and it was as awe inspiring and impressive as it was when we last saw about 10 years ago. I would highly recommend it. Two caveats: The drive from Cénac-et-St Julien Took about 1.5 hours. I think it might be about the same from Beynac. The other thing is that there are many, many stairs. You can avoid some of them with an elevator or by simply choosing to not do that portion of the trip. But you would miss out on some of the best parts. As you probably know, some of the trip, about 10 minutes is in a rowboat. It was all glorious. Having been in several caves in France I would say Font de Gaume and GdP Are my two favorites. Whatever you do I’m sure you will have a great time! PS: we booked a day in advance online and we’re very glad we did. It was extremely crowded when we arrived. Maybe it’s because it was a Sunday on a holiday weekend but still… Booking online is a much safer idea if you’re going to drive all that distance.

Posted by
37 posts

Many, many thanks to all who have responded!! Thoughts on Rosamadour were very helpful. I have scratched it. Thoughts on Gouffre Padirac were also very helpful. We will definitely make it there. I have checked cave websites and we have scheduled a tour guide for G. Font de Gaume. With the help of this wonderful Forum, details are finally coming together. Again many thanks!

Posted by
13809 posts

On Gouffre de Padirac...if you have anyone in your group who is at all claustrophobic or fearful of small, tippy boats in a cave, have them wait outside the main upstairs entrance. I was on a Road Scholar tour that did this sinkhole/cave last October. I do have some claustrophobia but thought I could handle it. I did not like it in the least and could not wait to get out. I also found t pretty touristy.

On the other hand, I loved Rouffignac and the other 2 caves we visited. I loved Rocamadour but we were there at the very end of season, there were few tourists and we stayed 2 nights there so had the early AMs and late afternoons to ourselves. There was a balloon ascension from the parking area at the bottom on the morning we left and that was lovely to watch as our bus pulled out.

I'd see how the weather is before you decide on the canoe trip. There are also short rides on some cute touristy boats at La Rocque Gageac that might sub if you are running short on time.

Posted by
1954 posts

I have visited Rocamadour last week and there were tourists but the place was not overrun, so it didn’t bother me. Yes, it’s very tourist orientated but nevertheless a lovely place worth a visit to my idea, however it makes a difference if you can avoid the peak moments. Further a good physical condition is needed if you want to walk all the way down (car parkings are at the top of the cliff) and again up. How you experience a place is always personal, I liked it, so this is how I see it.

Several terraces of restaurants are along the main road in La Roque-Cageac, a few have them at the backside and think more pleasant for having dinner. You have to miss the view of the river.
It’s always a pitty not having the experience of having dinner, but the view from the terrace of Le Belvedere in Domme is anyway stunning. It looked the guests had a good time there, very pleasant atmosphere and in the early evening / golden hour the heat was gone. Domme is a hill top village and from several places you can overlook the Dordogne valley.

Posted by
870 posts

Just returned home from the Dordogne……we stayed in Sarlat (La Lanterne)…..loved it and market day was such fun……and we also stayed 2 nights in Beynac (La Source)……much smaller…….the route to the castle in Beynac is straight uphill…..so get ready for some climbing…….I enjoyed the walking around Sarlat more than Beynac…….want to also mention that we did the canoe ride on the Dordogne…..I reviewed it on Trip Advisor…….beautiful ride and day…..with one exception…….we rode from the origin of the company’s business on the river to Beynac, a 3 hour ride…..we were told to get out at the 5th brick arch over the river……we did…….but as I was exiting the canoe i went to pull the canoe up on the muddy bank and took a really bad fall……the mud was as slick as ice!…….we discovered it was not the right exit point so we had to get back in the canoe and paddle UNDER the arch and go to the bank on the left side of the river where the snack bar was…….nice, non-muddy sandy beach……..if only they had told us that initially!…..so easy to say to exit at the snack bar after the 5th arch. Thank goodness we had drugs, etc to help the back soreness and get me through the rest of the trip……could have so easily been avoided with better instructions!

Posted by
37 posts

Jane, I apologize for smiling when I read your post re. canoe mudslide. Do you have a specific compant &/or start to finish site you would recommend for the canoe ride? You must have stopped quite often for it to be a 3-hour ride??

Wil and Pam,
Regarding Gouffre Padirac, happiy we are not clostophrobic. I'm glad to know we can make reservations ahead of time. Rocamadour vs Mont St Michelle....to avoid the crowds, we are spending the night on MSM. With that in mind, we'll have to save Rocamadour for another time.

I appreciate you ALL!

Posted by
870 posts

Sprout45……the route we canoed was sold as a 3 hour ride…..the river was delightful and we hardly had to paddle. It was a lovely day that could have ended so much better if the guide, telling 2 people that had never seen this river, had just directed us to get out of our canoe on the left bank AFTER the 5th brick arch……and do not get out until you see a snack bar on the left bank of the river. Just could have been so easy……..and spending the night on MSM is wonderful…….crowds are gone by 4 and it gets very quiet…..leave your non-essentials in our car trunk and walk across the bridge with a small bag of what you need for one night…….the cars are locked in lots that you cannot get out of until you use the code given to you by the hotel where you stayed……