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This week- very Lightly planned trip to the hinterlands in Brittany

This 12 day trip (decided upon just a few weeks ago and leaving in a few days) was inspired by Jean Luc Bannelec's detective series. We are two young-senior women from NC in good shape who are looking for the scenery and meals he describes so ravishingly in the books. Especially Oysters/scallops/lobster. Secondarily, I am scouting for a future LeBoat trip on the canals, and my friend is looking for a place on/near the coast to return for an extended stay next summer.
We picking up a europcar at CDG, ANY ADVICE ON BEST WAY TO GET OUT OF CDG HEADING TO our first stop Chartres, so we can get some rest after flight. (yes, I have downloaded google maps and studied the suggested route.) Then so far the plan is two days based in Paimpont to go to the Paimpont Forest, the Arthur museum, Josselin and the canal, then on to Auray for Concarneau area and more of southern Finstere. Or maybe go south to the Guerande and see the salt farms. I also would like to go to Cap Sizun for scenery and David Liebowitz's suggested restaurants; also Hugelgoat.

??Then question is where to next or in addition?
I would like to find a good place to rent bicycles and perhaps a kayak on the coast if anyone knows of a good place.
we are not really considering the Cote D'Armour for this trip since there is so much else.

?? But Cancale seems to have the best oyster places, but surely there are good ones throughout brittany? Locamariaquer used to be the place apparently, but no more.

Also, ?? what are thoughts about going to Local Tourist Info to find accomodations? Usually I would book online, but am worried that in some places we won't have sufficient wi-fi, even at hotel/gite.
Any recommendations, thoughts, ideas welcomed. I have gone thru the Forum for Brittany posts. This is one of the last places in France not run over with tourists apparently.

Posted by
977 posts

We had planned to visit Dinan, but had to pivot and were unable to during our visit. Though it's inland and not on the coast.
Bring a USB-A and USB-C cord for the car, because you never know which one you may need for the car for your phone.

Also, what Elizabeth formerly Bets says...we just did that...took the train from Paris to Rennes and picked up our car rental at the train station. So easy and convenient.

Posted by
10672 posts

You'll love Brittany and eat well. It's beautiful and historic.

A couple of thoughts: Paris to Rennes by train is two hours. Rennes has all the rental car companies at the train station. That is safer than driving from northeast of Paris to southwest of Paris to Chartres. If you still want to drive, you could stay closer to CDG, visit Chartres the next day, or stay the night in Paris and pick up your car at Orly and visit Chartres on the way. It's actually about a 6 hour drive to Pampont, no matter what Google says.

Auray is near Vanves in the Morbihan. Finistère is out at the end as the name implies fin terre, end of the earth.

Brittany is well-know and gets a lot of tourists, and second-home owners. September in France is silver season, when the grandparents are finished babysitting their grands over summer vacation and get to take their own vacations. You're in good company.

We have family in Brittany, so have been going forever. The absolute best guidebook for this area is the Michelin green guide. https://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Green-Guide-Brittany-Travel/dp/2067235451/ref=sr_1_1?crid=P7SKRF198BP8&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Zbq8jInJmIcTO3Bz7_djJSs2DU7gPGc21AnZRhhny5LdJjNTSUtBG30qiwUOtl9qNZ41ZPnKkZDtzouMD6Jsv65X5UQ35HDCczZFYx1rnoqOBprGIITUNyEY3BuSxEpuHclOnRhel2c8odm0B3WmGQ.GbVqG9MgBXxBl1TpSLmLGYmRJh5oiwdy1Okr9M2GuiI&dib_tag=se&keywords=michelin+green+guide+brittany+2024&qid=1726503217&sprefix=michelin+green+guide+brittany%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-1

You have mentioned a lot of things to see based on the detective story, but here's more: Locronan, Pont-Aven, Enclos churches, etc.

You've stirred up curiosity about the detective books. We have a fairly new series on TV here in France called Dupin. Based on the books? The same detective? We'll have to find out.

Posted by
2094 posts

I can’t help on any itinerary but thanks for referencing a new author. Our library has several,of his books! Sounds like our kind of mystery series. Your trip sounds fascinating. All I can say is that my nephew vowed he wouldn’t touch an oyster, and eventually we had to drag him off the sea wall at Canacale. An endearing memory of our trip through the area. Have a wonderful time and safe travels!

Posted by
7312 posts

There are plenty of great oysters all around Brittany. For example in/near Riec sur Belon - and you'll find them in Concarneau. So you can safely cross Cancale off your list.

Paimpont and Josselin are lovely, good choice.

Auray is a good base for Carnac and the Golfe du Morbihan area, I actually prefer Auray to Vannes. But for Finistère you will need to stay further west, I suggest Concarneau.

Despite travelling to Finistère 10+ times a year for work, I never made it to Huelgoat.

The best lobster I ever had was at An Atoll in Le Guilvinec. It might be a seasonal place though, so double check. It is not too far from Cap Sizun.

Posted by
1869 posts

Many of the places named in the Bannelec mysteries are actual locations . Several years ago we stayed in Carnac at Hotel Le Tumulus - the place still gets good reviews. We ate excellent oysters in their restaurant.

Posted by
83 posts

I recommend eating at Commissaire Dupin's favorite restaurant, L'Amiral in Concarneau. ( I haven't seen the Dupin series yet but it must be related to the books … they seem to be popular in both French and English even though originally in German.)

Posted by
1380 posts

Carole Leigh,
Back in 2017 we stayed at a chambre d'hotes in Pluneret, called Chambtres d'Hotes d'Evelyne", a true bed and breakfast with a yummy breakfast with homemade jams, etc. We had a car and drove to Auray for dinner one evening. Auray is charming and compact and nice to stroll around. I can't recall the name of our restaurant. The next day we drove to Carnac on our way toward Saumur. Carnac is a must-see.

The day before Pluneret we stayed at another b and b in Le Conquet, inexpensive and old fashioned, clean and charming in its own way. Tasty typical breakfast...breads, fruit, honey, hard-boiled eggs, good coffee and juice. Short walk to the ocean and to the church in town. It was called Chambres d'Hotes la Maison du Neuilly. We booked both through Booking.com. Also very inexpensive.

Be sure to visit Quimper. I find it lovely and it has a nice cathedral on the main square. We enjoyed an aperitif one afternoon while catching up with our relatives who live there, in Pluguffan and Lampaul-Plouarzel.

One of my favorite things to do in Brittany is just stand at the farthest western point and admire the power and beauty of the Atlantic Ocean. I believe it contributes to the character and personality of the Breton people (and the Welsh and Irish, who all face the same challenges of terrain, wind and water). I hope you all have a wonderful time in this magical part of France!