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Suggestions to experience the “real Paris”

Hi,

We are going at the end of this month to Paris and I asked my 14 yr old daughter what she is looking for while in Paris?

Her answer: I just want to walk around and feel like I am Paris, visit a nice Bistro and then maybe visit the Versailles.

So I am thinking cobbled stone street, away from the tourist center etc?

Two places came to mind, based on what I have read so far:

1) Montmartre and the maze of hilly streets in that area.

2) The area around the old center ( obviously this is at the center of the tourist area)

Question to folks here: Are there any particular streets that u can think of, that would fit the bill?

Rue Cler comes to mind, but it might be a bit to commercial.

We are staying a stones throw from the Louvre, just for context.

TIA!!

Posted by
3961 posts

Sounds like fun! We enjoyed a walking tour of Montmarte. It was one of the top highlights in Paris. It has the cobbled streets and full of charm. The view from Sacré-Coeur is wonderful. We stayed in Le Marais and did a walking tour. It has a wonderful vibe & cobbled streets. We enjoyed the classic Parisian brasserie Les Philosophes. Enjoy your stay!

Posted by
402 posts

It’s been an age, but my first day in Paris, I grabbed lunch at a deli and ate in Place de Vosges (3rd arr) and then walked down the Canal San Martin. I still remember these feeling very French. Someone who’s been there more recently can update as to current conditions in case the tourist center has spread out.

Posted by
10195 posts

What jolui has shared is as authentic as it gets, somewhat resembling the paintings by Utrillo of a residential Montmartre of 100+ years ago. My Parisian husband was surprised at what he saw when a friend who lived in the 20th walked us through some of jolui's villages a few years ago.

OTOH, Montmartre still has some hidden gardens and a local culture despite all the visitors.

Posted by
761 posts

Rue Cler is a typical Paris street - if you consider typical to be an ordinary street with shops that most Parisians have never heard of, but which has reached near cult status amongst North American visitors.

Just about any street in Paris is a typical Parisian street, but only if they don't feature in guidebooks. My favorite is Rue de l'Annonciation in the 16th, which is paved and has shops of all kinds. https://goo.gl/maps/jMV8e6DdNd9jUXTJ9

As far as I know there are no cobbled streets in Paris. There are a number of streets that have stone pavers, but they are't cobbles (thankfully)

(before anyone says "yes there are cobbled streets in Paris" and posts photos of stone pavers, this is what cobbles look like https://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/medieval-cobblestone-paved-road-15354983.jpg)

Posted by
741 posts

For your daughter Paris will be Paris wherever she goes if she has never been there before. Has she ever been anywhere else before? It will all be new. Thus she will feel like she is in Paris. What else would she feel?
You can easily book a free walking tour centered on Montmartre where you will walk the small streets and see the last vineyard and the Rabbit jazz club next to it and see the old studio of Picasso and the big windmill and the “best” baguette bakery and a view from the Sacre Couer.
It is all good, because it is all Paris. Holding all the real or imagined dreams of travelers from all around the world.

Posted by
6547 posts

Go to 1 Pl. de l'Estrapade. It’s the location of the apartment building seen in the Netflix series Emily in Paris. The restaurant in the series is at the other end of the plaza at 18 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques. Its name is Terra Nera.. The patisserie is next door to it. It has the cobblestone streets and is away from the tourist sights.

Posted by
133 posts

You all are so helpful!

I will definitely incorporate these into our plans.

I am also realizing there is so much to see and I just need to slowdown and let her see the new city at the pace she wants.

BTW - our plans are as follows - we are on a 5 week trip to Europe.

Fly into Paris

TGV to Nice

Nice/Eze/Antibes for Picasso

Fly to Venice

Drive to Dolomites ( Monte Paterno via ferratta)

Drive to Milan

Duomo

Train to Interlaken

Gimmelwald

Fly back from Zurich

Posted by
8060 posts

I have been most places in Paris and have never encountered cobble stones -- there are setts i.e. square paving stones on some streets including in Butte aux Cailles and Montmartre and the Latin Quarter.

I would get a 'Paris Walks' book -- Frommers has a good one, but there are many, which gives you walking routes and some information about what you will see on them. There are many market streets -- my favorite ones are Mouffetard, rue Levis and Montorgueil. Note that street markets and market streets close on Sunday afternoon and Mondays. Street markets occur all over Paris and range from magnificent long varied stretches to a few booths with produce and cheese. The best one IMHO is August Blanqui which is 3 times a week and stretches from Place Italie. Other great ones are Belleville, Edgar Quinet, and Richard Lenoir. The Richard Lenoir market is an art market on Saturday (it is a produce/food market on Sunday). I have never found anything I wanted to buy at the art market -- found it disappointing and we have purchased small art objects several times in Paris. Lots of tat and amateurish crafts but your mileage may vary.

Posted by
1189 posts

Hi from Wisconsin,
Just about anywhere in Paris will be pretty wonderful. Here is a really different suggestion: go to Bordeaux. If my memory serves me correctly, Paris (Haussmann) copied Bordeaux's look.

I didn't see anyone mention the Marais. It is in every guide book and every visitor to Paris probably goes there. As evening sets in many tourists exit. It is centrally located, Notre Dame is nearby, St. Paul's Metro on Rue de Rivoli is a nice walk. If you turn off Rivoli either to the left or right and it is Paris. Get her in to a cheese shop. Hard to get more French than that. Another centrally located street to walk is Rue St. Denis.

And one last suggestion. Luxembourg Gardens. Find a boulangerie that makes sandwiches. Buy a couple and something to drink. Walk to the Jardins. Find a bench or chairs, or flop on the grass. Enjoy the bread, the view, and the people. Better than going where it looks French, is acting French.

wayneiniw

Posted by
881 posts

The great thing about Paris is that is at once both “touristy” and just a city teeming with Parisians doing their thing. You’ll find narrow cobbled streets and grand elegant boulevards almost everywhere. Most every building looks amazing. Stay away from the Champs-Elysees and feel free to wander anywhere else. I wouldn’t sweat it too much, though I think the Marais between Hotel de Ville and Place de Vosges is great. Walk up Canal St. Martin to Place de Republique for good measure. On a summer day the canal will be lined with young folks hanging out. Spend some time in Paris’ wonderful parks. There’s nothing more Paris or Parisian than a lovely afternoon in the park.

Posted by
620 posts

Steve, your daughter is lucky to have a parent as thoughtful as you, a dad who'd go to the trouble of posting like this.

I always trot out 'Place Dauphine' whenever folks ask about something 'authentic' in Paris. Its at the far end of one of the isles, and features a selection of somewhat-off-the-beaten-path cafes, IF there's any such thing left in that city. Unfortunately, the lovely trees that once lined the central parkette or square, were taken down several years ago. It still retains some charm, and could make for a wonderful, less-harried place to enjoy a meal.
*Below is a post that I once made describing that same Place for a newlywed couple who were looking for a hotel recommendation there. I reprise it here simply for your entertainment. Enjoy.
Btw, Rue Cler has some nice, if VERY expensive delis. But it also has places that sell delicious tuna baguettes and other everyday foodic stuff. It has been very popular with RS readers for quite some time and so smug purists will roll their eyes at its mention. Its OK for a stroll but I believe that you could do better, by casting the net a bit wider. As you are doing here now.

'The original Henri IV hotel, aka The Henri 'Cat'. Sweet Jayzus. It used to be in lovely Place Dauphine til 2015, when it closed permanently for renos. Afterwards it became private residences.
I say 'Sweet Jayzus' above coz the hotel was a classic, no-star dump. In '94, we paid 195 francs and that was a ripoff by any measure. The washrooms were accessed by an ancient outdoors, spindly staircase. The mattresses were lumpy, the floor seemed tilted (it was--editor). The so-called breakfast was beneath the 'continental' status.

But the main thing that travelers used to recall was the evil manager woman. She used to spew verbal abuse onto every. single. guest. God Help You if you were foolish enough to request say, a new pillow, or a repaired whatever. We used to get up early enough to be the first down to the breakfast room, solely so we could witness her rude rants from the front desk, aimed at unsuspecting, half-awake guests as they stumbled down the stairs.
"WHADDYA' MEAN YOU WANNA MORE TOILET PAPERZ?! CHILDRENS DYING AFRICA AND YOU COME TO ME WITH THEES?!!"
Classic.
Absolutely fantastic location mind you, in that wonderful leafy square.
I am done. The end.

Posted by
133 posts

gregglamarsh and all the folks above.. what an amazing community.

I travelled to Europe with my wife for the first time in 2003 and now for the second time in 2022 tracing back to some places where we had amazing times ( eg paris, gimmelwald, milan duomo), while also visiting new places that our daughter wants to see ( Eze, Venice, Dolomites)

I am sure I have my list of walks in paris now, and Place Dauphine is on it!

Posted by
8060 posts

Place Dauphine is ringed with cafes and shops and a lovely spot and very nearby across the road is the tip of the island and the lovely Square Vert Galant. which is where the Vedettes Pont Neuf launch (the stair down to the park is just behind the statue of Henri IV on Pont Neuf. This is a great picnic spot or just a spot to read. The tip is a huge willow tree with a tent of branches to snuggle under or you can sit on the very tip of the island -- and the park behind it is lined with benches for a leisurely picnic lunch.

Posted by
9420 posts

For a slice of “the real Paris” my recommendation is to budget 2 (or more) hours walking through, and sitting in, the Luxembourg Gardens. First of all, it’s beautiful but it’s also where you’ll see lots of Parisians relaxing and enjoying themselves, children playiing in the playground, and neighborhood guys playing boules/pétanque (aka bocce ball) that have been playing together for decades. We love to stroll and sit and watch everything.

I also love walking down rue Mouffetard from Place de la Contrescarpe in the 5th arrondissement (Latin Quarter). I’ve been told it’s the oldest street in Paris, an old Roman road. It’s got pavers, fun shops, cafés, crépe stands, and a wonderful charm about it.

Posted by
620 posts

Fred makes a great suggestion above: the 20eme. Real Paris to be sure.
Below is a link to our TR that includes some imagery and logistical input about that very neighbourhood. We rented there in Oct. '19.
Note that the Paris section begins @ post #36, after earlier leeeeengthy coverage of the obscure Aveyron area. Title: 'En Pays Villefranchois'. Over there I go by 'zebec.'
https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/en-pays-villefranchois-photo-essay-part-one-1681367/page2/

I am done. The end.

Posted by
2130 posts

Hi Steve, lots of good advice here. Sounds like you and your daughter will have a wonderful trip to Paris! I love Montmartre. Wander the streets, stop at the Basilica and Place du Tertre, then have lunch at La Maison Rose. I’d also recommending spending a couple of hours walking around Pere Lachaise Cemetery. I finally made it there this year after 10+ trips to Paris. Tons of history and lots of cobblestones!