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Specific Questions for upcoming trip

Hi,

I am traveling to France later this month & am putting the finishing touches on planning and have a couple specific questions. I’ve also added my itinerary below and would be happy to take any opinions or suggestions.

Background: Early 30’s female, traveling solo, Oct 23-Nov 2. This is my second time to France (Paris & Nice about 10 years ago in a larger backpacking trip); have experience traveling solo but not for this long of a trip. I enjoy walking/being outside, castles & great architecture, some art/museums (in particular Impressionism), WWII sites, & trying local wine & food.

Specific questions:

  1. Transport once I land (8:10am) at CDG to Tours. Looking at Rome2Rio, it looks like there are direct trains from the airport to Tours (9:19, 11:18, 12:48). I like this for ease, but thinking I will probably just miss the 9:19 train. Are there other options I should consider or should I just plan to wait it out at the airport with a coffee?
  2. Is there any way via public transportation to get to Chambord? I’m not finding this to be very easy. My must see chateaux are Chenonceau (which I know I can take the train) and Chambord, so while I don’t need to do both in the same day, it’s looking like a full day tour is the best option for me.
  3. Travel from Tours to Bayeux on Oct 27th morning shows a ~100 minute layover in Caen. Any good lunch options near the Caen station/something to do?
  4. Weather—I’ve looked up historical weather for this time period, but wanted some opinions on how heavy a jacket I should bring. I’ve got a lightweight rain jacket I can layer under, but would something like a wool pea coat be necessary? Should I bring winter hat & gloves? I’m used to cold weather in the northeast, but want to be prepared to be outside.
  5. Does anyone have a recommendation for a food tour in Paris?
  6. Finally, kind of an offbeat request… I love browsing in bookstores, especially independent/used ones. Any recommendations for unique bookstores I could poke around in?

Itinerary:

Oct 23- Depart Boston, nonstop flight to Paris (Delta)

Oct 24- Land Paris CDG, 8:10am. Travel to Tours, outdoor time/walk/whatever Tours sites I feel up to (sleep 3 nights, L’Adresse Boutique Hotel)

Oct 25- Day trip to Amboise (Chateau Royal d’Amboise, Chateau du Clos Luce, walk around town)

Oct 26- Likely a full day small group tour with Ala Francaise going to Chenonceau, Chambord, & lunch

Oct 27- Travel to Bayeux, late afternoon Bayeux Tapestry Museum (sleep 2 nights, Hotel d’Argouges)

Oct 28- Full day Normandy tour with Bayeux Shuttles (booked)

Oct 29- Morning travel to Paris, Paris sites not covered by museum pass, possible walking tour of Montmarte @ 2:30pm (sleep 4 nights, Hotel Diana)

Oct 30- Paris sites (Day 1 of museum pass)

Oct 31- Paris sites (Day 2 of museum pass)

Nov 1- Day trip to Reims, or additional time in Paris

Nov 2- Depart Paris CDG at 10am

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Posted by
8164 posts
  1. I would just wait and catch the 11:18, instead of going to Paris Gare de Montparnasse or Paris-Austerlitz, which are train stations in Paris you would need to go to get a train to Tours.

  2. There is a shuttle bus the leaves from the front of Gare de Blois (the train station in Blois) that serves Chambord.
    https://www.chambord.org/en/plan-your-visit/getting-to-the-palace/ That is the method I used and it is pretty easy as many others are going to Chambord

  3. I would do the light rain jacket and layer underneath instead of a pea coat. Coming from Chicago Europe always seems mild.
    But everyone has different thresholds.

Posted by
1586 posts

Lynn - To visit Chateau Chambord since you are not driving is to take the train from Paris Austerlitz Train Station to Blois-Chambord (about 1 hour 20 minutes) then, from April to October you catch the Château Shuttle for the 25-minute ride. The shuttle does a circuit of Blois, Chambord, Cheverny and Beauregard. At other times of the year you could take a taxi from Blois-Chambord.

Things to do near Caen Station - You can have a nice lunch at:

LE BISTROT 102 Caen

Address: 102 Rue Saint-Martin, 14000 Caen, France

or tour Musee des Beaux-Arts de Caen which 1 mile from the train station.

Bring your winter gear since you are going late October to early November.

Foodie tours :

https://parisbymouth.com/food-wine-tours/

https://www.withlocals.com/s/france/paris/tours/food-tours/?adults=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3emEqMH-5AIVibTtCh0Fuwk-EAAYAiAAEgJTwfD_BwE

Take a trip to the book stands in the Latin quarter along the river Seine. There, you will find many used books.

Berkeley Books of Paris is considered one of the most charming bookstore in Paris that offers tons of used books.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0LFchZEeow

Posted by
4132 posts

Hi Lynn,

1) The 11:18 is your best bet. The earlier train is the 10:14 from Paris Montparnasse. Here's the thing: If you could make that, you could make the 9:19 from deGaulle.

If you really want to hedge your bets, buy a transferable ticket. It's not impossible that you could make the 9:19 if you do not check your bag, your flight lands a little early, and the planets align. But don't count on it!

4) Layer. You might encounter cool wet windy weather on the beaches in Normandy (though not super likely); bring enough gear for that.

Posted by
5697 posts

How about a squishable down or down-alternative jacket to wear under your rain jacket ? I used this for rainy days in Paris in December.

Posted by
15784 posts

Nov 1 is a holiday. I did a quick google search and read that the two most celebrated days in France are July 14 and Nov 1. Since it's a Friday you're looking at a the start of a 3-day weekend for your day trip to Reims. I suggest you look into it further. It's possible that some of the champagne caves will be closed. The Musee de la Reddition is closed on Nov 1 per their website. OTOH the Louvre is open - so maybe most other Paris sights are open that day.

All I'm saying is check out the options. If Reims is a priority, then maybe go on Oct 30 instead. I very much enjoyed a day in Reims, but there's plenty to see and do in Paris.

Posted by
14731 posts

I’ll comment on your outerwear. I’m in Paris now and it’s cool with periods of rain. I’m also pretty cold-tolerant.

Many of the locals are wearing wool coats already. I’ve got a waterproof outer layer and currently am comfortable with a SS Tee with a LS drifit layer over it. I’ve got a puffy vest packed for later in the month. The waterproof layer is what I wear all winter in N. Idaho with various polarfleece or puffy vests under it so it’s not really a “light” jacket. It’s a Cabelas waterproof, equivalent to a Columbia or Marmot Precip.

I’d bring at least gloves liners and perhaps a lightweight warm hat if that makes sense. I'm thinking polar fleece headband for your ears and then the hood of your jacket over that for the Normandie Beaches. Expect wind.

Posted by
10193 posts

I wouldn’t agree that the two most celebrated holidays in france are July 14 and Nov 1. For example, the bookstore I used to work at in Paris closed three days a year: Christmas Day, New Year’s Day, and May Day (May 1), and I find looking at museum and sites those are often the days mentioned for annual closures.

(It may well be that more people participate in/celebrate Bastille Day and All Saints Day in terms of gathering with family for a picnic / going to the cemetery — although I really think of that being done more in more religious countries like Poland — but I don’t think closures on either of these days are as likely to be a problem for visitors. Of course any holiday entails less frequent transport schedules and some closures, and that would be true for Nov 1 just as any other holiday.)

It is smart as Chani suggested in any event to check for closures due to the Nov 1 holiday— but I just don’t think it will be so problematic for your trip. Good to be aware ahead of time though.

Your trip sounds great. Make sure to buy a timed ticket ahead of time for the Louvre — especially with the blockbuster DaVinci exhibit opening in late October. If you go on their website, they have a place where you can get a times reservation to go with your museum pass.

I would bring the pea coat (or a packable puffy jacket as noted above) . Late October / early November risks needing more than a rain jacket.

Posted by
36 posts

Thank you to everyone for your very thoughtful replies to my many questions!

I expected the 11:18 train would be one I'll have to take, so thanks for those that weighed in and confirmed. Maybe I'll get lucky with an early arrival but best not to expect it. I know it's more expensive but I'll just buy train ticket when I arrive. Also appreciate the info on the Chambord shuttle bus... looks like I need to spend some more time deciding how to best spend my 2 full days in the Loire Valley.

I appreciate all the thoughts on what to wear-- I'm going to err on the side of caution and bring a warmer jacket, gloves, and hat. Laura B, your suggestion of something squishable is a good one. I may have to do some shopping before I go, not a bad thing at all! Otherwise I own quite a few wool pea coats or otherwise warm jackets so it's just a matter of which one to take along. Rain jacket will definitely be coming with me.

Chani and Kim, thanks for the info on Nov 1st holiday. I'll look up any potential closures & check the train schedule carefully. Reims is not necessarily a must-see, as I want to be flexible in case I am tired or need more time in Paris. Kim, I did see that timed entries are needed still for the Louvre but I think I'm going to skip this trip. I much preferred the D'Orsay last time and can't wait to go back.

RJean, those food tour & book store recs are exactly what I was looking for, and appreciate the restaurant rec for Caen.

Any other input I would be happy to hear. I can't wait to leave-- in exactly 3 weeks I'll be in Tours :)

Posted by
12313 posts
  1. When I've flown into CDG, I've gone through Iceland. I get my passport stamped there and pack only a shoulder bag. With no bag, and no passport check, it takes me right at an hour to get to the train. I like it because I can count on it. If you have to collect a bag and get your passport stamped, I'm not sure anyone can guarantee when you will be out? It might be easy or it might be a really long wait. Since you are going soon, I'd just go to the station and get the ticket for the next train. You won't save any money, or at least not much, by booking a seat now and conceivably will lose the value of your ticket if you're late (some tickets give you a window to use them).

  2. I biked around Loire, using Amboise as a base, but that ruled out Chambord and many chateau further east. After seeing a few chateau, it's overload. Don't feel like you need to see every one.

  3. There will be plenty of places to eat. Most French pick up a sandwich and drink at a bakery or small store.

  4. Don't bring a heavy jacket. A waterproof trench coat type rain shell, with a hood, will be best. Pack a couple warm layers for underneath. If it's rainy but not cold, you're good. If it's rainy and cold, you're good. If it's cold but not rainy, you're good.

Posted by
1117 posts

2: If you like biking, you can rent bikes from many places in Blois and ride to Chambord, about 45 minutes along quiet rural roads.

6: Shakespeare & Co. is a great and famous English bookstore in the Latin Quarter of Paris.

Posted by
3 posts

You will love your hotel in Bayeaux! Just gorgeous. We stayed there 4 nights 2 weeks ago! Caroline is a gem who will hook you up with the best restaurants! And Gloria the adorable Beagle is a sweet companion! Enjoy!

Posted by
11294 posts

One of the few LGBT book stores still open anywhere (so many have closed) is Les Mots à la Bouche, at 6 Rue Sainte Croix de le Bretonnerie in the Marais.

And thanks Mona for that great link!

Posted by
36 posts

Thanks so much to those with their book store recommendations-- I have no less than 8 bookstores on my "must visit" list now which makes me very happy :)

Brad, thanks for your experience on flying in CDG. I will need to collect a bag, and had already decided not to buy any tickets ahead of time. I also agree about not seeing every last chateau-- Chambord and Chenonceau are the priorities.

Amcgovtn, thanks for your feedback/personal experience! The hotel looks gorgeous, really excited to stay there even though my time in Bayeux is limited.

Chani, thanks again for the alert about Nov 1st. After researching more & finding all the sites in Paris I want to see will be open on 11/1, I've decided I'll plan on going to Reims on Oct 30th as suggested so that I can see the Cathedral and Musee de la Reddition (along with a couple champagne tastings!)