Self-guided 3-week wine tour by train — rethinking Bordeaux because of the fires

the situiation in Bordeaux area is serious, but on top of that your AI planner had a little wobble. The first 4 locations formed a neat, logical journey from north east to south east France, even with Paris at start and finish - but Bordeaux then messed that up with a huge jump over to the west. Even without the fires this was less than optimal.

I only know of one other wine town, Mâcon. To be honest I only know that because it's a twinned town with Crewe! But I do like a glass of Mâcon Villages - and they do have a reasonable level of train services.

But there might be a small cloud hanging over this plan. You mentioned " the ease of train travel" in Switzerland. It's not the same in France, they have an annoying policy of compulsory reservations on many trains.

Be careful when using AI. If you ask overly general questions, you'll end up in mass-tourism spots for international wine tours.

Instead, try asking the AI something like:
What are the French wine regions with the most winegrowers?

You'll start getting better answers that will make you rethink your rough itinerary and check out maps like this one:
https://vineyards.com/wine-map/france/languedoc

As for Bordeaux, the fires in the Gironde are more or less under control right now, and it's mostly the forested areas that were affected. Lately, the vineyards have mainly been hit by hail and drought.

Anyway, this region is primarily a tourist destination for its beaches, and the tourists who were evacuated weren't there for wine tastings. So you can of course visit the area to support local businesses, but keep in mind that the Bordeaux grand cru winemakers are already loaded, so they'll always be fine.

It might complicate your itinerary planning, but you could also check out websites like this one:

https://www.atelierduvin.com/en/a-quick-guide-to-frances-wine-regions-and-vineyards/

Given the wildfires this summer, I'm second-guessing Bordeaux. I have zero interest in being a "fire tourist" or adding any burden to a community that's still dealing with recovery — so I'd genuinely like honest input from people who know the area.

No problem to visit Bordeaux (although we don't know what august' heat will bring).

In any case, the mayor of Bordeaux is currently encouraging visitors to stop by, since tourism and the wine trade are the main pillars of the local economy.
https://actu.orange.fr/france/venez-en-gironde-le-maire-de-bordeaux-lance-un-appel-aux-touristes-apres-l-incendie-de-saumos-magic-CNT000002qMbZC.html

It’s been a daunting task and I am the least wine expert person ever born. We spent 10 days in Paris in 2019 and loved it. But Paris is not the entirety of France. I’ll definitely have to rethink this project. Maybe it’s better via automobile. At least they drive on the correct side of the road. Ha!

The area that has burned and is burning is an extensive sandy-soil pine forest.

Don’t skip one of the world’s great wine regions. It is an outlier compared to the others but it’s a quick 2-hour train ride from Paris. After visiting go back to Paris, take a bus or taxi to the Gare de l’Est and head to Reims. It’s only 1 hour.

A car would be too slow. And you’d have to spit when tasting. It’s easier to take a train and join a tour or find a guide.

Other thoughts …

Sancerre and/or Chablis, west of Beaune (and Dijon). For their drier whites; Sauvignon Blanc and Chablis(CORECTION:Chardonnay).

Alsace, for its Riesling and Gewurtztraminer and Cremant. In Colmar, we enjoyed wine tasting and food at Au Temps d’un Verre.

Should you find yourself in Dijon in the evening, I thoroughly enjoyed a wine tasting bar with food accompaniments at Le Cave de Saulx. An exceptional experience!

In France, if you’re going on your own, you will need to make reservations for most winery tastings.

Go to sites such as

https://www.ruedesvignerons.com/

And explore.

Consider renting bikes or e-bikes for a day’s ride through the vineyards to a couple of wineries where you’ve made reservations.

you will need to make reservations for most winery tastings

Yes, if you're booking an organized wine-tasting tour which usually has pre-arranged partnerships with specific estates, you definitely need a reservation.

But for the majority of winemakers (vignerons), you don't need a reservation at all. You can just check their opening hours and drop by. Tastings at these vineyards are often free of charge, though good etiquette suggests buying a bottle or two before you leave to thank them for their time and hospitality.

All wine-growing regions have clearly signposted "Route des vins" (wine routes) that can be explored on foot, by bike, or by car.

When are you planning to take this trip ?

Trip was being planned for October this year

This is another suggestion. I was going to take a “France off the Beaten Path” this fall to Provence, but have to postpone it to next year, because I had a knee replacement 4 days ago.

I know they also have a Bordeaux week long tour, which sound lovely. It is a high end tour, but you stay in the same hotel all week, and are transported to the different wineries by sprinter van. All transportation in the region ias well as a lot of the meals are covered. I can hardly wait until next year!

Hi Patrick,

If you are going in August, I would suggest avoiding Bordeaux. The smoke from the wildfires may make your stay unpleasant. If your trip is September or later, you will probably be ok. A good alternative could be the Northern Rhone. I would recommend staying in Hermitage and visiting Cote Rotie as well.

If you do decide to visit Bordeaux, you may find this website helpful (www.sauvistication.com). Its purpose is to teach people how to navigate Bordeaux’s wine scene without tours or guides.

Safe Travels