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Seine River Island bars?

Ok, this is probably a long shot but I have been looking for days with no luck. I read somewhere (probably a blog) about pop-up bars/restaurants along the islands in the Seine that were kind of a throw back from old working class Paris. I even talked to someone who did this and it sounded fun, of course I can't remember who it was. It sounds as though most are temporary and word of mouth and a lot stay open late with anything from live jazz to DJs. I think you have to catch a ride on a small private boat to get to them. I seem to recall they go by a certain name. It's definitely not part of Paris Plage or the pop-up restaurant scene going on in all big cities. Does this ring a bell with anyone? I've got a girls trip coming up this fall. We've been to Paris multiple times so this would be something fun and different to do. Thanks for any help!

Posted by
4684 posts

The traditional word for that kind of thing is "guinguette". I haven't heard of a revival but I don't hang around Paris hipster blogs.

Posted by
3728 posts

I thought that guinguettes are found in the suburbs of Paris. There is supposedly a great one on l’Île du Martin-Pêcheur. There is a poster on this forum whose blog covered a trip to a guinguette but I can't recall the details. Maybe she will see this thread and respond with some suggestions. Ginguettes are not temporary but maybe a hipster movement is afoot to make them hot.

Posted by
565 posts

Thanks guys! I'm pretty sure that's it. I looked up the name on TripAdvisor and came across janettravels blog. After looking at it I'm almost positive hers is one of the blogs I read about. If anyone has any experiences with these, please let me know! We are thirty and forty somethings so not looking for 'hipster' stuff. Thanks again!

Posted by
20253 posts

"Janettravels" posts here so maybe she'll see this.

Posted by
37 posts

Hi Leslie - I read about them as well many months ago in a travel magazine - maybe AFAR? - and had made some short notes to file away as a possible idea for our Paris trip later this month. I'd like to visit one as well but haven't researched further yet. Here are my notes, hopefully they might help you too!

Guinguette (riverside pavilions offering simple food, cheap wine and live music and housing):

On the Marne:
La Guinguette de l'lle du Martin-Pecheur - live music and magical island setting,
Chez Gegene - full band at the grande dame,
Chez Fifi - slightly scruffy

On the Seine:
Maison Fournaise - Renoir painted Luncheon of the Boating Party,
Guinguette Auvergnate - jolly accordian playing owner,
Musee de la Grenouillere - Monet and Renoir

In Paris:
En Attendant Rosa - modern,
Faust

Posted by
565 posts

Jennifer, thanks so much for the list. Very, very helpful. After Phillip gave me the proper name I started digging around and came up with a few that are on your list too. This seems to be one of those things that's off the tourist radar. If you go, I'd love to hear your experience. Be sure to check out janettravels blog. Very informative and makes me want to go more. There must be a pop-up version of this going on from a couple of blogs and people I've talk to about it.

Posted by
8293 posts

See painting " La Guingette" by Maurice Utrillo

Posted by
6558 posts

Canauxrama offers all-day cruises visiting guinguettes on the Seine and Marne. I haven't taken one but we did enjoy their shorter ride on the Canal St-Martin in Paris.

Posted by
565 posts

Thanks Dick for the recommendation. That would be one way to settle the 'how do you get there' question. I'm not sure I could tolerate an entire cruise back with the accompaniment of an accordion :). I've tolerated bag pipes on 8track for a 18 hour road trip for a family reunion so I imagine the wine at lunch would at least make it amusing for a little bit! I'm digging through their website now. Lots of interesting cruises.

Posted by
8097 posts

Here are the two we went to:

The Auvergnate on the Seine which was our favorite
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/06/27/guinguette-traveling-back-in-time/

and Isle Martin Pecher on the Marne
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/07/05/day-in-the-country/

These are not pop up bars and definitely not jazz but very fun and easy to get to from Paris; make a reservation if you want to do this.

We once stumbled on a pop up bar/ festival along the Seine in Paris which was part of some local fest

https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/06/17/music-one-key-to-unlocking-paris/

But alas something that fits your description exactly I haven't encountered. The only boat to a bar I am aware of is in Bois de Bologne for a little restaurant on an island in one of the lakes; you can row a rented boat to it or take a small ferry. I don't know that it has music, but it has a good reputation as a restaurant and it is definitely not a pop up. I would think there would be such things during Paris Plage but haven't encountered them.

For old timey French music and a fun evening -- but not a sophisticated or jazzy one there is also this:
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2011/10/09/le-vieux-belleville-non-je-ne-regrette-rien/

Posted by
565 posts

Thanks so much Janet. I'm thinking this would be a very fun day out. My biggest concern now is how we will be received. So far it looks like 2 of us from Atlanta, 1 from Atlanta but working in Switzerland, 1 from Mexico City, and 1 from Manchester UK. We have a few conversational French speakers among us but my experience is that doesn't go far with French only speakers. Can we get by in the guingettes? A few weeks ago I was in a French only establishment and just got lucky a guy at the bar was fluent in English to help us order. I loved your last entry! The club in Belleville looks like something we would very much enjoy.

Posted by
8097 posts

I always find people in less tourist oriented places to be very welcoming and the Guignettes are mostly locals. We have had locals talk with our 2 year old grandchild who happily mimicked their greetings of 'Bon jour' and pleases and thank yous. We were welcomed at the Auvergnate -- they pulled us into the dancing and happily took snapshots of us. We got lost trying to find Sceux and a little old lady who spoke not a lick of English helped us with our pathetic limited tourist French to find our way.

Posted by
6558 posts

I agree with Janet, as long as you've made the effort with some basic phrases, and you're prepared to point to menu items and imitate a chicken or something else to eat, you'll be fine. ;-) They'll just think you're typical goofy Americans and take pity on you!

Posted by
37 posts

Of course, glad to help! I'll update you if we end up visiting one - have been following the rest of the posts as well which are helpful too! :)