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seeking advice from Dordogne/Vezere experts

Flying into Paris on Tue 4/16, taking the TGV down to Bordeaux that morning. Likely will stay overnight in Bordeaux due to jet lag, but planning to pick up a car at Gare St. Jean early the next morning and head in the general direction of Montignac/LesEyzies/Sarlat for 6 days. My goal is to visit Lascaux II and IV, the Museum of Prehistory, and some of the other cave/shelter sites. I'm trying to figure out which town to use as a base for exploring the area, and perhaps doing 3 nights each in two different towns.

Would love to hear from ppl who love the area! Bonus points for hotel/lodging suggestions with tables d'hote. Seems like it would be nice to cap off a day of sightseeing by not having to go back out for dinner.

(And if you have a fave city center hotel in Bordeaux)

Posted by
1823 posts

The Montignac-Sarlat-Les Eyzies area fits into a 12 mile square, I don't see the point in choosing 2 different accommodations.

On the other hand, I don't know if staying in this part of the Dordogne is a fully informed choice, but know that it is only a small part of the region as you can see on this map:

https://www.vallee-dordogne.com/app/uploads/ot-dordogne/2022/03/carte-vallee-dordorgne.pdf

If you want another base and access other caves, villages, sites, go further east, towards Martel / Carennac (in the middle of the map)

For accommodation I recommend the Gîtes de France. There are many more than hotels in this rural region

https://www.gites-de-france.com/en

Posted by
40 posts

Thanks so much for pointing out the relatively small scale of the area I described. Another reason I was considering a split stay: three nights in Sarlat, perhaps, and three out in the countryside......a blend of peaceful and busy.

Posted by
1823 posts

If you are looking for a place in the countryside in Dordogne, just walk 10 minutes from the town center Sarlat and its 9000 inhabitants

More seriously...
See in the area I mentioned, you will be less than 30 minutes driving from quite a few interesting places:

Martel, Collonges la Rouge, Chateau de Turenne, Gouffre de Padirac, Carennac, Brive la Gaillarde, Rocamadour, Curemonte, etc.

Martel is a well located base

https://www.tourisme-lot.com/les-incontournables-du-lot/villages-remarquables/martel

The largest town in the region is Brive la Gaillarde.

https://www.visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk/natural-and-cultural-heritage/cultural-heritage/villages-to-visit/brive

Posted by
669 posts

nikkiu,
You will love the Dordogne. We were seven family members last June, from 9 yrs to 80 yrs. Jolui gives good advice, especially regarding Gites de France. We didn't want to be in a town, so had a large house close to La Roque Gageac. As Jolui says, the area is small enough that, if you have a car, most everything is within a relatively short drive (most no more than an hour, many within 10-20 min.)

Having been to both, seeing Lascaux II and IV is repetitious. I would opt for IV. Also, at Les Eyzies you are right at Font-de-Gaume, to me the premier cave to visit, and the Museum of Prehistory. Start checking the monuments website two months before your stay if you want to get tix for the English language tour of Font-de-Gaume, as there is usually only one a day. And check the site for the museum. We were there on a day it was closed (a Wed.), so didn't get to see it.

No need for two different accomadations. And, like you, we drove from Bordeaux after renting a car there. The drive to the Sarlat/La Roque area takes about 3-4 hours, depending on your choice of A or D roads. We almost always choose the D roads. Living in California, I don't need to experience freeways/autoroutes on my vacation.
In Bordeaux we stayed a tram ride away from the center of town, at the Hotel Saint Louis Beaulieu-Bordeaux. It was formerly an abbey or convent. Rooms were in the 85-95 euro range, with free parking behind a gate. Rooms were modern yet simple...no tv or ac, but with elevators and a good breakfast at 7.50 euro per person. The cafe on site served a good dinner also. The walk to the tram line was one long block, but traffic near the center of town is no fun to drive in and the trams were cheap, clean and efficient.
I can't recall where we ate, alas. To sightsee, the Cite du Vin is terrific, but probably too much on arrival day. Just strolling around the old center and maybe a stop at the cathedral should be enough. Lots of eateries to choose from.
Back to the Dordogne, since we were in a house, we ate breakfast there, set out for sightseeing in the a.m., and had lunch while out and about. One place we loved was Les Courtines, at La Roque Gageac. Sometimes the cafes at museums and castle towns were excellent and reasonably priced. Although we sometimes prepared dinner at the house, we did have a splurge dinner at Le Grand Bleu in Sarlat, near the train station. There are so many delicious places to eat that you will miss out on part of the Dordogne experience if you don't try some of the regional specialties.
Amusez-vous bien!

Posted by
40 posts

Tres bien merci, Judy! Such great info. I’m digging into the gites website right now.

Posted by
4117 posts

We'll be visiting for a week in the region in early October and are staying in Beynac to begin and possibly Rocamadour for a few days. Beynac is a bucket list destination after visiting for a few hours in 2019. Rocamadour isn't set in stone but looks interesting, but you'll get a few people on this Forum that will call it too touristy.

Posted by
1823 posts

I strongly advise against Rocamadour as a place to stay.

You will get caught in tourist traps, restaurants, hotels, and souvenir sellers while you can find in a 15 mile square, a few kilometers further, the largest concentration of "Most beautiful villages in France" with authentic and nice places.

Loubressac

https://www.vallee-dordogne.com/vallee-de-la-dordogne/villes-et-villages/loubressac/visiter-loubressac

Carennac

https://www.vallee-dordogne.com/la-vallee-de-la-dordogne/villes-et-villages/carennac

Martel

https://www.vallee-dordogne.com/la-vallee-de-la-dordogne/villes-et-villages/martel,

Collonges-la-Rouge

https://www.visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk/discover/cultural-heritage/villages-to-visit/collonges-la-rouge

Turenne.

https://www.chateaudeturenne.com/

Posted by
612 posts

In Bordeaux my husband and I stayed at Hôtel Des 4 Soeurs and enjoyed it very much. Nice café where you can sit outside connected with the hotel. Elevator was a plus. Air conditioning was not only a plus it turned out it was absolutely necessary! I would second Judy and highly recommend Font-de-Gaume. We've been in many caves and this, along with Gouffre de Paderac (incorrect spelling, sorry) is our favorite. And I would also second (or is that third) Sarlat. We usually stay in a gite (de France) near Sarlat. Not too much of a drive to the various caves. And Sarlat is exquisite. Most beautiful town I've ever seen. And don't forget la Roque Gagiac and Beynac, both within very easy driving distance of Sarlat and each other. Many medieval castles to tour if that strikes your fancy. A few hours in a canoe on the Dordogne is also delightful. Have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
106 posts

We spent two weeks exploring the Dordogne last April. Our base was Sant-Cyprien which was very central to exploring the area.

I would recommend against Sarlat as a base, better to only visit. It’s one of the larger and more popular walled cities in the area, vehicles are not allowed. If Sarlat is your base, you will have to deal with parking outside the village and walking to your rental inside the walls daily - it’s an inconvenience you just don’t need.

We loved Collanges-La-Rouge and visited it twice. The first visit was Mother’s Day ( a Sunday ) and it was packed. The second visit was on a Tuesday and it was a much more relaxed adventure.

We re-visited La- Roque-Gageac having stayed there in 2013 - we were surprised how touristy it had become. There are many more tourist shops and restaurants in 2023 vs 2013. It was a turn off for us. We also re-visited Beynac and found it much more enjoyable- the castle and view are spectacular.

I would skip Rocamadour- it’s a day commitment and, again, over wrought with tourists. We also enjoyed Carennac.

In summary, we really enjoy the quieter villages, finding a small authentic place for lunch and a little local shopping. If you would like my full list of favorite villages from our April 2023 Dordogne trip, please DM me.