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Scratch-built WW1 tour: Paris -> Belfort -> Verdun -> Paris

My wife and I are planning a trip to France this year. The principal motivation is the retracing of my grandfathers footsteps during World War 1. Likely window for us will be August, September, or October. Neither of us has any European travel experience. Budget is king. Working through a travel planner appears to be too costly. World War 1 packages tours are also too costly and involve trips to areas that I do not want to spend time (money) on. Additionally World War 1 packages don't involve Belfort. So it looks like we will try to buy airfare, reserve hotels, and purchase transportation passes and museum tickets on our own. Right now our rough itinerary looks like this:
Paris 1 night

Train
Belfort 3 nights
uber or rental
Verdun 3 nights
tour van or uber
Paris 2 nights
bus
We've already learned that purchasing airfare/hotel package may prove impossible since our Paris stay(s) are bookends for several nights elsewhere. We are open to staying at B&Bs in Belfort and Verdun, if they are a value. I am looking for any advice or recommendations on how to go about doing all of this.

Posted by
4088 posts

The French consider WW1 "the great war". La Musee de la Grande Guerre is located in the pleasant town of Meaux, a quick train ride from Paris. It focuses on the experiences of everyday life as well as military history. Worth half a day, in my opinion. https://www.museedelagrandeguerre.eu/en.html

Posted by
5 posts

Hi Tim, My parents and I planned our own budget friendly trip about a year ago since my mom wanted to see WW1 sites where her grandfather fought. We stayed 2 nights at the Hotel Les Colombes in Verdun. We arranged a whole tour with a guide named Ingrid Ferrand which cost about 350 euros for the whole day for the 3 of us ( email: [email protected]). She had excellent reviews on TripAdvisor. Website: http://verdun-fuehrungen-macht-ingrid.com/en/

We did not have a car so she picked us up at the hotel and drove us in her car but she could ride with you if you have your own car. We were glad that we didn’t have to worry about driving and could look at the sites and scenery. She even arranged a place to have lunch in a small cafe with a friend of hers that has a small museum.

Some sites that we saw were:
Argonne and Saint Mihiel.
American Monument Montfaucon
American Cemetery Romagne
Saint Mihiel
German and french trenches
American Monument Mont Sec.

You can tell her what you are interested in, and she can provide suggestions too. We had a long full day but it was fantastic having our own tour guide so we could see what we wanted to and could have stops along the way. We went in early June and didn’t see many people at any of the stops.
We took the TGV train to the Meuse TGV station and then went outside to get on the awaiting connecting bus to Verdun. From the bus stop in Verdun, it was just a short 10 minute walk to the Hotel Les Colombes. I arranged and booked everything myself and we had a great time. Just private message me if you need any details.

Posted by
672 posts

I assume that your grandfather was in the American Expeditionary Force (AEF), but wasn't 100% sure since I had not come across mention of Belfort in books I have been reading in preparation for a similar "grandfather's footsteps" trip to Northeastern France in May. If so, do you know what Corps or Division he was in and what battles he participated in? There are some recently-published books available for doing self-guided WW1 tours, assuming you have a car. One recently published one for the Meuse-Argonne Offensive is excellent: American Expeditionary Forces in the Great War: The Meuse Argonne 1918: Breaking the Line (Battleground Books: WWI) which is available from Amazon. It has driving and walking tours for each American Corps that participated in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive (26 Sept to 11 Nov 1918). Another good guide is Major and Mrs. Holt's Battlefield Guides. My grandfather's Regiment was assigned to the Fifth Corps and participated in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive. Although the battle of Verdun took place before the U.S. entered WW1, we plan to spend one day in that Sector. The other day will be the Meuse-Argonne, with stops at the sites of the "Lost Battalion" and where Sgt. York's heroic actions earned him the Medal of Honor. A great overview of the American Army in WW1 is a book by John Eisenhower ("Yanks: The Epic Story of the American Army in World War I"). Have a great trip!

Posted by
3 posts

I appreciate everyone's reply. Someone asked why 3 nights at Verdun and Belfort. Here's why. Rick's book recommends not hopping from ville to ville. Instead he recommends picking a base to put your luggage, and then range out from there on day trips. Rick also recommends not running a tight schedule. Instead leaving some time to wander. Most of my time will be spent poking around in small villages, farms, or wooded land. Some in private ownership, some publicly held. (Arranging this might be my biggest challenge). All of these locations have already been identified in fair detail. I also hope to arrange meet-ups with some French historians and geographers that I've become acquainted with. I know exactly where I want to travel, so adding anything not affiliated with my grandfather's Division, will not be included on this trip. I may see one cemetery the entire trip. Of course I have to leave some time for generic "sight seeing" and shopping to appease my wife.
This entire effort is the "denouement" for the work I have already done building this storymap:
http://untilitsover.org

What I was actually looking for on this forum, were specific recommendations on French agencies or resource providers that can assist with lodging and transportation. Also recommended method of payment, prior to arrival, for reservations, tickets, etc.

Posted by
14980 posts

True... package WW1 tours are pretty pricey, I wouldn't do that either, money or no money. I would and have tracked these war sites, (cemeteries, monuments, memorials, museums) myself along with accommodations or getting a rental car.

There are other places to stay other than in Verdun, nothing wrong about that, which would be no problem for me either staying there for 3 nights. I would suggest Metz. You might consider that place. I know Metz a lot better than Verdun in terms of small hotels.

It seems your interest in WW1 is mainly the US role. If so, then I would suggest going to Chateau Thierry where US troops were injected to stem the last German offensive in July 1918.

If you know your grandfather's unit, what regiment in which division, that would be easier too in retracing his steps.