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Sarlat-La-Caneda planning

Hi, We are spending a few nights in Paris this month, renting a car and spending 3 nights in Amboise, 2 nights in Brantome, 5 nights near Sarlat-La-Caneda, and 2 nights near Grotte Pech Merle. Then we will make our way back up to CDG. I have reservations for some caves and chateaus. I am considering spending a Sarlat day driving a loop to Gouffre Padirac, Autoire, Carannac, and Martel. Would it be better to spend that day exploring west of Sarlat-- possibly Limeuil, Cadouin Abbey, and Belves? We could stop at Gouffre Padirac, Martel, and Collanges de Rouge after leaving Pech Merle but wouldn't have time to see the smaller villages such as Curemonte and Turenne. They all sound wonderful! Any suggestions on how to narrow it down?

Posted by
2024 posts

June 2025 we stayed in Sarlat a few days. We enjoyed one daytrip that included Collages de Rouge, Martel (our favorite), and Autoire. That region was very scenic and not crowded. Returning to Sarlat we stopped at a viewpoint to see Rocamadour from a distance.
On another day we did a loop to the west . We could not find parking in Limeuil so had to skip it. Instead of very restored Cadouin Abbey we re-visited nearby Abbaye St. Avit, an evocative ruin.

We only had one day for Pech Merle and St. Cirq Lapopie, but my trip research notes listed some lovely nearby villages just east of there. Unfortunately, not enough time to check those out.

Posted by
31 posts

Perhaps if you’re interested in the Lot you might drop one night in Sarlat and add it your stay near Pech-Merle (which is stunning). Otherwise you’re in for a ton of driving. I think your one-day loop from Sarlat would be exhausting and frustrating; don’t underestimate how long it will take to get to places like Carennac. These are country roads and you don’t make great time. I doubt very much you’d actually get to all the places you name.

We’ve spent several weeks in both the area around Cadouin and in the Lot. I didn’t find anything memorable about Belves; i did like tiny Cadouin (first time I ever had garlic soup), and Limeuil is beautiful. But given the choice I’d focus on the Lot. We were based in St Cere, giving us easy access to the delightful Carennac, Martel, and Autoire (all of which are truly memorable) as well as to the Corrèze (don’t miss Turenne, but you can easily give a pass to Curemont, IMO) and also to places south of us, including Figeac, Pech Merle, and St Cirq Lapopie.

There are also some pretty drives just for scenery near the Lot river and also a pleasant river cruise.

Posted by
229 posts

Thank you for the helpful replies. @Frenchaucoeur: Do you mean that Figeac, Pech Merle and St Cirq Lapopie are also skippable or don't miss? We have early reservations for Grottes Pech Merle and then will spend 2 nights at Cabrerets. I thought that on our full day we could drive to Bouzies, walk to St Cirq Lapopie, then take the boat back to Bouzies. Unfortunately that boat doesn't run in May. They do a river cruise, which we could do. Or would it be better to stop at St Cirq Lapopie after the cave, take the boat tour and drive north to a smaller village to spend the 2 nights? Then I could spend a full day exploring the countryside.

Posted by
3881 posts

I'm curious about your decision to choose 3 bases for your trip to the southwest, especially considering that it's only about a 1.5-hour drive from Brantôme to Sarlat, and the same from Sarlat to Pech-Merle.

If you're thinking going further west of Sarlat, keep in mind that you might stray from the charm of the region unless you're really keen to explore the Gironde and Bordeaux areas.

As suggested by Cynthia and Frenchaucoeur, if you'd like an alternative base the best option would be to head east of Sarlat towards Lot and Corrèze (Quercy region). This area is also part of the Dordogne Valley, home to many castles, caves, and some of the most beautiful villages in France.

Martel, which is one of the most beautiful villages in Ffance would put you close to Carennac, Turenne, Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Loubressac, Autoire, and Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, all of which are also labeled as "most beautiful villages." Plus, you can easily visit the Padirac Cave and a variety of castles.

The large city of Brive-la-Gaillarde is also nearby; if you've heard good things about the Saturday market in Sarlat, be aware that it's rather pathetic compared to the one in Brive-la-Gaillarde. :-)

I created this map which might give you some ideas. It highlights nearly all the worthwhile spots to visit, including castles, caves, and villages, as well as options, some selected places to eat or buy regional products, and local markets with their opening days. I've also made a partial update (up to May) with upcoming flea markets.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1OdPOg8AgsNn0Jlv1cNHkujaWv9p_Jpc&usp=sharing

Sarlat itself can be overwhelmed by tourism (thanks to Rick Steves), and after a day there, you may feel like you've seen all it has to offer. If you're interested in history and architecture and still want to spend some time in Sarlat-la-Canéda, I've also made this map to locate some historical details in the town.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1_zMv76Ci4ofAlS7qKX_VSAW6C1aELNQ&usp=sharing

Posted by
31 posts

Cindyeb: I certainly didn’t mean to suggest that Figeac, Pech-Merle, and St Cirq Lapopie were missable; they are quite the opposite (although St Cirq Lapopie is totally a tourist magnet, it’s something to see).

JoLui will give you much better advice than I can. But I would put Martel, Autoire, Carennac, and Turenne atop my list of don’t-miss places if your time is limited.

I notice no one has mentioned Rocamadour. I’ll only say that I hated it the first time we were there - super crowded and hassling. On another trip we went early in the day and really enjoyed it, in large part because it was empty. It’s totally a tourist destination, at least on the lower level, just like Mont St Michel, but it’s still an extraordinary place. If a visit doesn’t fit into your plans, maybe try to stop at L’Hospitalet for the iconic view.