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Saint-Remy or Luberon as home base?

My wife and I cant decide whether to spend 5 nights in Saint-Remy or a Luberon village for our visit in July.

We will first be spending 3 nights in Avignon where we will explore Avignon, Uzes and Pont Du Gard and then our itinerary is pretty open after that. We plan to spend the next four days exploring at a slow place enjoying long lunches and also time spent by the pool.

Does anyone have a preference as a home base while in Provence?

Saint Remy appeals to us as we would have a number of restaurants and cafes to enjoy each day but the Luberon villages just seem so classic Provence which we also would love to experience!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Posted by
7304 posts

Since you are already spending three nights in Avignon, it makes sense to head to the Lubéron afterwards, for questions of geographic diversity Saint Rémy is really close to Avignon). There are plenty of restaurants in the larger Lubéron villages of Gordes, Roussillon, Saint Saturnin and Bonnieux. Smaller ones like Ménerbes or Goult also have a few options.
I am assuming you will have a car? It is essential in the Lubéron, and frankly in St Rémy too (even though there are a few buses there).

Posted by
16 posts

Yes we will have a car!

We are very attracted to Bonnieux and have noticed there seems to be quite a few good restaurants in the village even though it’s on the smaller side.

We also don’t mind driving to another village for dinner but just worry about finding parking. I’m assuming though that around 730pm a lot of the day tourists have left the towns such as Gordes and Roussillon?

We currently live in a small town here in the US that’s not very walkable so like the idea of being able to walk to dinner but we will be spending 4 nights at the end of our trip in Paris so can get our fix there!

Posted by
7304 posts

Your assumption is correct, parking is not an issue once the day trippers have left. Be prepared for some uphill walks from the main visitor car parks to the hilltop villages, especially in Gordes, but it is still very manageable.

A note on walkability in Bonnieux: there is some (light) through traffic in the village. It is not a deal breaker, but it is there, and it does affect walking in some of the streets. The village is still a good place to day, I am just pointing it out to avoid disappointment!

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks for the heads up about Bonnieux!

Right now we have found accommodation that looks great in Bonnieux, Roussillon, Gargas, Saint-Saturnin, Lourmarin and Menerbes.

All seem like great options but we are so undecided!

Any favorites of the towns I listed?

Posted by
920 posts

We based in Gordes and St. Remy when we did Provence a few years ago….we have a special place in our hearts for Gordes and LOVED the accommodations we enjoyed there….they also had a wonderful market we wanted to attend……St. Remy was new to us but we loved walking that charming town, visiting VanGogh’s room at the hospital and it’s weekly market was outstanding…..we also discovered Le Chateau des Alpilles on the outskirts of St. Remy….wow….a charming estate that was turned into a hotel and has gorgeous grounds they invite you to enjoy. We had lunch on their grounds one day……we had a car and delighted in driving around the towns of the Luberon…….Bonnieux, Loumarin, Menerbes, Rousillon, Aix-en Provence, the abbey outside of Gordes with the lavender fields……and then back home at night to Gordes or St. Remy to a nice meal and quiet night. We thought these plans were perfect and felt like we did not miss the village charm at all……even visited Isle de la Sorgue for the weekly antiques market. We went to the weekend market at Aix but after enjoying the villages we were glad we settled at night in a smaller setting….if you want hotel names, etc DM me and I will be glad to send them to you! Have fun! PS…..DON”T MISS THE LAVENDER FIELDS NEAR VALENSOLE

Posted by
16 posts

Jane, your trip sounds amazing! We are so excited to explore Provence ourselves!

We are actually staying at a beautiful chateau about 15 minutes outside of Avignon for three nights which we are really looking forward to. I originally wanted to stay at Le Château des Alpilles but unfortunately they didn’t have availability for our dates. Instead we are going to visit the grounds and have lunch there! We are also going to Gorges du Verdon so will stop by Valensole on the way there!

Gordes look amazing and it seems like it has the benefit of walking the village in the morning and evening while the tourists are not there.

I’m so torn on our decision where to stay!

Posted by
7304 posts

Regarding the lavender fields: how late in July are you going?
Before 10th July or so (varies from year to year, but I have an inkling that lavender will be early this year), Valensole is the best, but by mid-to-late July you have to go around Sault / Ferrassieres. The drive is shorter and the elevation is higher, hence later blooms.
And if you are feeling lazy, there are some nice fields until mid-July between Goult and Bonnieux. Plus a famous, small one in front of the Abbaye de Sénanque right outside Gordes.

Posted by
16 posts

Balso, I just double checked our dates and we will actually be in the Luberon area from June 24th to July 1st. Thought it was mostly in July for some reason!

Posted by
7304 posts

Then that's perfect for the fields dotted around the Lubéron, around Lourmarin too (not mentioned in my previous post), and Valensole. Too early for Sault.

Also, regarding where to stay: I suggest you focus on finding accommodation that you like, because the main Lubéron villages are a 15-20 minute drive from each other: it is really very easy to move around.