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Saint Emilion or Rocamodour

Planning to be in Southern France in early September. Will be staying for a couple of days in Toulouse. From there we have 2.5 days to spend before we need to return to Paris so we’re trying to decide if we should: A) Drive to Rocamodour, spend the night, return the next day to Toulouse for the night, and take a train day 3 to Paris OR B) drive to Saint Emilion, spend 2 nights, and take train from Bordeaux to Paris day 3.
I know the experiences are totally different, so it’s an unfair question, but just wondering if anyone has a strong feeling about one itinerary over the other. My wife is a farmer, keeps dairy goats, and we are both agricultural... love history and food.

Posted by
6113 posts

I found St Emilion in May 2019 to be disappointing, overly touristy and full of Americans! I was there off season, but it was difficult to park after 10.30am. All the dozens of shops all sell the same produce. Two hours here was enough. It’s better going to the caves in the surrounding villages for a more genuine wine experience.

Rocamadour has fantastic scenery and great cheese! This would get my vote any day. I would imagine far more posters on this forum have been to St Emilion than Rocamadour, which will sway the answers.

Posted by
797 posts

We were in Rocamodour in Sept. 2017. The location is truly spectacular and to make it even better, by sheer dumb luck we were there during a hot air balloon festival. Overall it was an exceptional place to spend some time.

Posted by
472 posts

Been to both - St. E as day trip, Rocamadour overnight, both in summertime. Rocamadour wins.

Posted by
3595 posts

I haven’t been to St. Emilion, but I can recommend Rocamadour and the nearby areas. My choice would be to bag Toulouse altogether and add those days to exploration of the Lot and Cele valleys. Among the atractions there are prehistoric caves, charming towns like St. Cirq-Lapopie and Cordes, and the astonishing Gouffre de Padirac. Albi has a stunning cathedral and is home to the Toulouse Lautrec Museum.
For your return train to Paris, Bordeaux or, perhaps,Cahors are easy to reach.
Be sure to arrive in Paris the night before your flight. We once had the experience of a several hours (6?) delay due to a jumper. French passengers on the train commented that such problems were not rare. Fortunately, we had followed the advice that I am now passing on to you.

Posted by
27111 posts

I've done day-trips to both by public transportation. Rocamadour was so difficult to reach that I had little time there before I had to turn around and leave. The lower part of town was 100% tourists. Every building, though historic, was either a restaurant or a shop. I wouldn't recommend anyone go if they didn't have time to go to the upper area (which I did not, but you certainly will). Although Rocamadour was about my biggest disappointment over the course of four months in France, that was because I failed to accurately calculate how little time I would have there after the very, very long walk from the nearest bus drop-off point. That situation would not apply to you, but I want you to be prepared for what you'll see in the lower town.

I preferred my experience at St-Emilion, where I began my visit at the high point of the town and slowly wandered downhill, hitting virtually every street. It was atmospheric and not particularly touristy until I got down near the base of the town, which was indeed full of tourists. It is definitely true that quite a few people on the forum have commented negatively about the touristy nature of St-Emilion--not just in this thread.

I wish you had a lot more time. That part of France has so many wonderful villages and towns. I'd take a hard look at how much time you'll be spending on the road vs. actually at your destination. I agree that Albi has multiple interesting sights, and it has the advantage of being relatively close to Toulouse. I also liked Toulouse; it has very pretty architecture that's quite different from most other French cities.

Not having had a car at my disposal, I unfortunately cannot comment on the best choice from the rural-scenery standpoint.

Posted by
8052 posts

The sight of Rocamadour is stunning and the views, particularly once you hike up to the top are spectacular. The town itself is tourist hell -- composed pretty much of crappy restaurants that cater to tourists and shops that sell tourist tat.

Posted by
472 posts

There is that - many tourists, many businesses angling for their pocketbooks, but that's a medieval pilgrimage site for you :) 'Twas ever thus. Plus the top of the town, the church, the Black Madonna - that's the point. Granted, St. Emilion also has a very cool ancient church, subterranean, but you have to wangle access, thru a guide or---

Posted by
100 posts

I have been to Rocamadour and, but for the balloons, was disappointed. I would suggest you look into Sarlat. Prettier. More interesting. And, if you are there on a market day, fascinating. Hundreds of stalls in a true medieval town. We found bulk died beans we had never seen before.

Posted by
2916 posts

The lower part of town was 100% tourists.

If percentages could go over 100, the number might be even higher. I spent one night in Rocamadour, and that was really one night too much, except it fit well in our schedule. The view approaching Rocamadour is spectacular, and I guess it would be worth an hour or so there, but that's about it.
I've also been to St. Emilion, but not overnight.. The 2 hours we spent there was plenty. There are some spectacular sights there, but it was much too touristy.

Posted by
6534 posts

Years ago we spent a night in Rocamadour during a trip to the Loire Valley, northern Spain, and the Bordeaux area. We enjoyed the evening and scenery, and would have liked a couple more hours to see the town. Overall however, there isn’t a lot to do there, so relax it is. Haven’t been to the other town. We had a rental car.

Posted by
612 posts

Rocamodour! But, yes indeed, try to stay overnight. Actually, I 2nd Sandy. I don't think it's possible to do better than Sarlat. When I go back to France (ASAP) I will spend at least 2 weeks maybe 3 near Sarlat. It is in my (my husband says never) humble opinion the absolute most wonderful thing in France along with the Dordogne river nearby.