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Riviera next week, I could use some help planning

Hi friends,

I'm leaving on Tuesday for France and it seems like a good idea to do some planning - and I need a break from packing which I hate doing.

I expect to arrive in Nice around mid-day on Thursday and will have another 4 full days there. Then I'm renting a car for 3 days and staying in St-Paul-de-Vence.

I have a list of sights in Nice that will probably take up all of Thursday and one more full day. I also plan to spend a day in Antibes. I'd like to be as efficient as possible with travel, using the trains and buses to explore other towns while I'm based in Nice, then using the car for those places that are less accessible by public transport. I'm especially looking forward to driving the Corniches and Gorges du Loup.

So . . . . which places would you combine in single day trips by train/bus and by car? Recommendations for specific sights? Bistros? I'm not a foodie, and I eat mostly vegetarian, but some fish (looking forward to many lunches of salade nicoise).

Posted by
847 posts

I had a four day trip to Nice a few years ago - no car. On one day I did a day trip to Eze via bus. Another day I did Villefranche and Monaco on the same day. A third day I did Antibes by train. All of those day trips didn't take the whole day so the remainder was in Nice itself. Here is the trip report I did on that trip - https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/thanksgiving-in-paris-isabel-goes-to-paris-and-the-cote-dazure-817594/ - scroll all the way down as Paris is at the beginning.

On two other trips I've been to Vence/St Paul de Vence - both times with a car. Here is the trip report from the most recent of those - https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/photo-safari-to-the-south-of-france-the-italian-rivera-and-the-swiss-alps-990300/ - scroll down to post #40 for the section you'd be interested in. I visited Haute Cagne, Tourette-sur-Loup and a few other villages as well as St Paul (I stayed in Vence on both the trips I took to that area).

Photos of all these are at - https://andiamo.zenfolio.com/f667172952

Posted by
688 posts

Hi Chani:

Antibes may be more convenient to do by train from Nice. I've done both and if you drive, there are garages in the center of Antibes. It is a walk from the Gare into the old town. Cannes can be done on the same ticket, but it sounds like you have the full day to spend there. You can also hit Villefranche-sur-Mer easily by train -- and then continue on to the Villa Ephrussi. You can drive to these places pretty easily in March, but the best views from Cap Ferrat are by foot on the path around.

If you do the corniche, go to Eze by car. La Turbie is also interesting. Menton can be done by train or car, or you can drive just into Italy. I like Borghidera over San Remo and the town of Aquadolce is not far from Ventimiglia, but a world away (take your passport). Besides Tourettes-sur-Loup (hit the great olive wood shop, and take a great lunch tere), be sure to continue on to Gourdon, high above the Gorges. If you wander further west, Mougins is another great town filled with galleries.

For restaurants in Nice, you might try Bar des Oiseaux (make a reservation) in the Old Town. It is a simple Med bistro with a good selection of pasta for the vegetarian/pescaterian. Bistro d'Antoine and Comptoir du Marche are its sister restos, along with Peixes (fish). For salade nicoise, try eating at Cafe Safari on the Cours Saleya after the market -- if it is sunny you can eat outside and people watch. That is a classic experience. Consider also a pan bagnat, basically salad nicoise in sandwich form. Pure vegetarian restos are rare in Nice (I know, spouse is one), but if you eat fish, you should do fine. General rule: restaurants in the Old Town can be hit and miss, research first-- restaurants directly on the pedestrian zone of Rue Massena are almost all miss, but the streets just off tend to be much better choices.

Posted by
27210 posts

I am not an early starter and managed Villa Ephrussi and Villa Kerylos on the same day. I think that was the same day I also walked at least part of the way around Cap Ferrat. With an early start you could probably knock off Villefranche-sur-Mer at the same time, though I think not if you want to go inside any of the sights.

You are traveling way off-season, so be sure to check the websites of the indoor attractions you propose to visit. Even in May some have considerably shorter hours than in July-August, and during my research I saw that March and April were even worse. The odd place may be open only 3 or 4 days a week.

Posted by
11208 posts

Bus to Villa Ephrussi, next walk down to the port to lunch in St-Jean, then walk to Villa Kerylos in Beaulieu. We took a bus both ways from Nice, a wonderful day. This and our day in Antibes were our favorite day trips from Nice in a two week stay there.

Posted by
796 posts

I also love Villa d’Ephrussi Rothschild Gardens. Beautiful views from the Gardens. You can do Rick’s walk into St Jean Cap Ferrat. I have been into the gardens in March and they were nice.

I love Villefranche sur Mer. Lunch at Cosmo, views on the water. For a pricy lunch or supper, a waterfront meal at la Mere Germaine or Orsin Bleu. Walk in the old town to the old church with the steeple. See the Citadel and walk to the Darse port. There is an old boathouse along the water by the Darse port, some has been restored. The brick ceiling is gorgeous. I usually stay in Villefranche.

Eze is great, easier with a car but you can do by bus, I have done this. Get to the famous exotic gardens at opening before others arrive. The sculptures are so beautiful. I did not have lunch at the La Chevre d’Or but it has been recommended, very pricy but the views are great.

Have a great trip.

Posted by
15601 posts

Thanks to all for sharing. I am slowly digesting it all and making notes.

All packed, leaving in a few hours for the airport and getting more and more excited.