TL;DR: Paris is open. There are crowds in many places but not like June/July crowds. No one checks your vaccine status after the flight. Masks are only required on the metro and on pharmacies. But plenty of people wearing them elsewhere. Book ahead for restaurants.
Just finished up a week in Paris. If you’re vaccinated you do not need a test to enter France. The indoor mask mandate (with a few exceptions) and pass sanitaire requirements have both been lifted. We were never once asked for our vaccine cards in France at any restaurant, tourist site, etc.. We Flew direct Boston to CDG on Airfrance. We uploaded our vaccine cards and passports ahead of time and got a “ready to fly” on our boarding pass so we bypassed the ticket desk at boston (no checked bags). We have pre check but there was almost no security line for anyone (it was about 230pm on a Friday). We only arrived so early for our 620pm flight because our ride had to bring us that early otherwise we wouldn’t have needed really any time. The flight was 98% full. There was a full dinner and breakfast service. CDG arriving was ok. We waited about 30 minutes for passport control. They did not check our vaccine cards. Restaurants are open and thriving and outdoor seating was as usual in all weather with heaters. Some staff wore masks and some didnt. More places seemed to be reservation-centric perhaps as a result of covid. We had no trouble with walking in to most places but if there is a special place you want to go to, Id look into booking a week in advance, most had online booking options. As to the metro, that is the one of only place masks are required. 90% of people comply but there is no enforcement. You can still get paper tickets but we opted for the Navigo easy card. We bought the card for €2 each and used our phone to reload tickets. you dont need the picture like you do for the other Navigo cards. We DID experience a ticket check one day so if you do opt for the other Navigo cards that require the photo make sure to get that photo or bring one for it because you will be fined on the spot. One downfall of the Navigo easy is you cannot load RER rides on it. We went to Versailles and had to buy a ticket. Versailles was moderately busy but we bought tickets the night before and all time slots were open. We did the gardens as well and rented a golf cart as it was raining, pricey (€35 an hour) but worth it. We took the Thalys to Brussels for a day trip. We brought our vax cards as the tickets said a EU vaccine passport OR equivalent is required. But it was never checked. Musee D’Orsay was busy. We booked the tickets the night before and there were plenty of time slots. The walk up line was very long. We waited less than five minutes with our tickets. You still need a neg covid test to get back into the states. It can be pcr or antigen (must be a supervised antigen test or performed by medical person). You need to wear a mask in the pharmacy. We saw a covid testing sign at probably every pharmacy. We used our phones to scan a barcode on the window of the pharmacy which gave us a form to fill out. The pharmacy received it electronically. Idk how it would work if you did not have working internet on your phone. We got the results on our phone in 20 min.
Departing: we uploaded our tests ahead of time . Our flight was at 130pm and we arrived at 11ish to CDG. It was BUSY. We did not plan to check bags but Air France stopped everyone at passport control and weighed your carry on items together. So if you had a roller bag and a backpack both were weighed together. The limit is 12kg. We had to go check our roller bags. With this diversion it took us about an hour and a half to drop bags, get through passport control, take train to terminal, and do security. With kids or bad luck it could take a long time. The ticketing desk had a crazy line so if you need a boarding pass or other needs where you need to see an agent leave lots of time. Bag drop was automated.