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Relaxing day trip to countryside from Paris by train

I’m trying to plan a trip with my sister for mid April. This will be her first (maybe only) trip to Europe. She in her mid 60’s and having some health issues that require we take this trip a bit slow. We’ll be ending our trip in Paris for 6 nights. This will be my 4th trip to Paris, and I have an itinerary for the city. She’s mentioned she wants to “see the countryside”, but she can’t really articulate what she means. She mentions seeing the big chateaux in the Loire valley, but I’m a little concerned that she is underestimating how much walking is involved at these places. We will rent golf carts when possible! We already have a trip to Versailles planned for another day. I’m thinking that after the Versailles trip, she might be done with Chateux, but would still enjoy a day in the countryside.

I’m envisioning a day trip to a spa with a lovely view of the countryside where we can sit in loungers by the pool (or in it if it’s warm enough/heated). Preferably someplace we can get to by train, then taxi. Does anyone know of such a place? Or have any other ideas? Maybe we could hire a driver that would take us for a tour around the countryside? Neither of us are really into wine, but we’re into learning about the culture, which wine is certainly a big part of in France. I think we’ll just be ready for a day of vegging and soaking up some pretty landscapes, I’m just not sure where to go.

Posted by
7312 posts

I’m envisioning a day trip to a spa with a lovely view of the countryside where we can sit in loungers by the pool (or in it if it’s warm enough/heated). Preferably someplace we can get to by train, then taxi.

I would not count on being able to lounge outdoors in April around Paris.
But I do have a place that comes to mind: how about a spa in a chateau? Chateau de Villiers le Mahieu could fit the bill, if they accept day visitors. If not, it's an expensive place to stay, alas. Access should be OK, by train from Montparnasse to Plaisir then Uber/taxi.

It's not the only place like that. Domaine de la Corniche is worth a look as well (not as fancy, not as rural, close to Giverny), and the fancy Champagne hotels around Epernay might also fit the bill.

On a different note, if you are looking for a chill day trip somewhere not too intense, I think Provins could be very interesting with its medieval old town with castle and all. Direct train from Gare de l'Est, and not a ton of walking (I remember buses from the station to the old town).

Posted by
9436 posts

I think Senlis is a good option, i’m not a fan of Provins. Sceaux is also a lovely town and the chateau (more a manor house) is really lovely.

I highly recommend you read “An Hour From Paris” by Annabel Simms, for suggestions, descriptions and how to get there.

You mentioned your friend is interested in going to the Loire Valley for chateaux… Versailles is a palace (and i love it) but another fun day trip from Paris to see a real chateau which is different. from Versailles, i recommend Vaux-le-Vicomte. It’s out in the countryside and is fantastic. They have golf carts to see the grounds. It has a café with good food so you can spend the day there. I recommend reading the history of it before going, it’s fascinating. RS mentions it in his Paris guidebook.

Posted by
7949 posts

I don't think your idea of golf carts is going to be a solution. This is not The Villages, Florida! If her physical challenges are severe, it may be wise to allocate a chunk of money to a car and driver, maybe to pick you up from the train, but that will be harder to arrange than "from Paris", where there are zillions of chauffeured cars.

Is it possible she carelessly imagines that "the real France" is close to Paris? You have to be careful how you query her; For example, if you mention "The D-Day Beaches", she might get her heart set on that, but it's unsuitable for a host of reasons. I wonder if she thinks there are still wooden villages from WW II movies? It sounds like YOU have been to Versailles. Do you think she is going to be able to visit HALF of the gardens? Is she going to be exhausted after Versailles?

Could you post a sketch of your full itinerary, please? You said Paris is the last stop. If she's exhausted, you may not be able to cancel an expensive day out that's already paid-up.

I have not been to Chantilly, but I believe it's a vague approximation of a Loire chateau, but very close to Paris. It has a world-class art collection, too. I have also not been to Fontainebleau, but there's a palace, and the forest is quite famous for the history of pleine-aire painting.

I applaud your efforts to satisfy her, but dependence on weather, and going to a place without public transportation could be bit of a trap. It's hard to me to vote for a spa-day far from Paris, when Paris is full of spas! I wonder if you want to find a smaller city where you can book a private guide with a car for the day, with the understanding that you want to concentrate on the outskirts instead of the downtown. I doubt there are lot of blooming shrubs in April, however. Are you aware that Paris has lovely botanical gardens, and a (paved) former railroad viaduct called the Promenade Plantée? Again, there won't be a lot of blooms in April.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/france/recommended-side-trips-in-france-with-no-car

Posted by
2575 posts

Prior to Paris, we will spend 5 nights in Seville. One day will include a day trip to Cordoba. One day will be a spa day.

We will fly from Seville to Paris for 6 nights. Her physical concerns relate to some hip pain that causes problems when she stands for a long time, but she’s ok when moving. She’s in PT for it. But it’s been a year since she’s walked 5 miles or more in a day, which I KNOW we typically do in Europe (this will be my 10th or 11th trip). I’m just trying to plan a slow paced trip to help her enjoy the places we will be to the fullest, while tempering her expectations of what she’ll be able to do in a day. It’s a hard thing to admit you’re not 22 anymore!

She is the typical 1st timer who wants to see EVERYTHING, so I’m trying to guide the itinerary toward investing her energy in experiences that will be valuable to HER, not just checking off some “must see” list. For example, she’s happy to see the Eiffel Tower & Arc de Triomphe, but doesn’t need to go up to the top. I suggested the idea of hiring a driver to drive us by the sites in the evening when things are all lit up and she liked that idea.

She wants to go to Fountainbleu and Vaux-le-Vicomte. I have not been to either, but I think we might do that as a day tour from Paris on a bus tour. I suggested we plan that for a few days after Versailles, in case she changes her mind after seeing Versailles. So I’m looking for a more leisurely substitute that will satisfy her desire to get out in the countryside vs being in Paris.

I appreciate all the suggestions so far!

Posted by
9436 posts

Based on your situation, i would visit Vaux-le-Vicomte only, and skip Fontainebleau (a chateau, not a palace).
Maybe a private car and driver for Vaux.

Posted by
1186 posts

If she likes art as well as chateaux, give Chantilly a look. Easy train ride from Paris. Probably take a taxi from the station to the property, check the length of the walk for her. It is flat and pleasant, but perhaps both ways are too much. Horse museum and show opportunities also although I haven't checked availability during your time frame. Grounds are attractive. The website should give you an idea if it is appropriate. May or may not be her idea of "countryside".

I agree with either Vaux le Vicomte or Fountainbleau, not both. I also vote Vaux le Vicomte - private driver or tour from Paris or train with taxi to site. Vaux le Vicomte remains my favorite chateaux after over 30 years of chateaux, palace, and castle explorations. Not the everyone would agree, but it is a special place for many. Not sure that this gets you into the countryside as she envisions, but you could walk the Forest of Fountainbleau if she's up for that.

The small towns outside like Senlis may require more walking and active exploring than you describe in your "search criteria".

Posted by
2307 posts

Wherever you go, I would really recommend pre-booking transportation. I’m not sure if this has happened to others, but we’ve gotten to smaller towns and had the 1 or 2 local taxis snapped up with no other options other than walking. Have you checked day tour options from Paris? I know you are a seasoned traveler, but a tour might alleviate some of your stress.

Posted by
9436 posts

ORDtraveler, Vaux (and Chenonceau) is my favorite chateau too, in a lifetime of palaces and chateaux, like you.

travel4fun said her friend can walk. I have trouble walking too, but Senlis was not difficult and it was extremely rewarding. It’s a very old, small, charming little town/village very easy for strolling, exploring and relaxing at their outdoor café.

Posted by
3518 posts

I don’t have any tour or trip recommendations, but what I would recommend is that your sister steps up her exercise routine now, pre-trip.
I hear that she is already having physio, so perhaps her PT can add in some more targeted exercises, including more walking.
I walked miles in Italy 5 years ago with “crumbly” knees , a brace and a cane and did quite well.
The more I walked, the better I felt.
Happy planning….you sound like a very caring sister.

Posted by
2109 posts

It must be well over twenty years ago that visiting Chantilly first and Fontainebleau the next day was for me the start of seeing more places like this. Seen more before, but as I enjoyed them both so much my interest had become more serious since then.

So I am pretty sure for your sister as a first timer whatever Chantilly, Vaux-le-Vicomte or Fontainebleau are very enjoyable to see, so you can’t really go wrong. Fontainebleau is huge and actually more interesting for it’s history and besides this visiting Vaux-le-Vicomte the same day too will be to much to my opinion. As Vaux is the most beautiful as already said I would go there too and if there is enough time left you can go to Blandy for a drive around the castle and a bit through the countryside there as well.

Chantilly is easy to combine with Senlis, however you have to deal with a lot of cobbled streets. You can look around with google streetview how much doable is walking around there. Between the two places you can drive through the countryside or on the way back to Paris.