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Recommendations for the Loire, Normandy and Paris

Just returned from 2 weeks in France with my family - husband and 2 boys (11 & 13). Here is a recap of where we went, logistics, places we stayed & general feedback

Arrived CDG at 9:30am and needed to get to Tours. Wanted to take the TGV but didn't reserve tickets before leaving US in case flight was delayed or we had other problems. In hindsight I wish we had. Got through customs super quickly but TGV we wanted to take was sold out - found out after waiting in LONG lines because train area was packed

Took the city train to Gare de Lyon, walked across bridge to Gare l'Austerlitz to catch 1:00 intercity train to Tours. This was not as bad as I thought it might be - walk is not far and easy to figure out. Line at the station was VERY long again and barely made the train. It was full but was an "open" train meaning they allow you to stand if there are no seats, which we did. Would risk reserving the TGV before leaving the US if I could do it over

Rented a car at Avis right at St. Pierre des Corps train station in Tours - this was very easy

Stayed at Chateau du Pray just outside of Amboise. Would HIGHLY recommend this hotel. It was gorgeous, staff was incredibly nice and helpful, breakfast in the dining room was wonderful, and the pool was a huge bonus! Stayed in a Pavilion room which was lovely with beautiful view of the chateau. Castles visited: Chambord, Chenonceaux, Chaumont, Amboise, Blois and Clos Luce. Would recommend all of them with the exception of Blois, which was not nearly as impressive as the others

Drove to Bayeux, Normandy which took 3 hours - very easy drive on AutoRoute. Did not get GPS with rental car, but used phone GPS which worked wonderfully. We got a global data/text/voice package through Verizon. There were only 2 toll booths along the way - one with an actual person, the other automated. Used a Chip/PIN Visa card on the whole trip and never had any issues in any stores, restaurants, machines, toll booths

Stayed at Hotel Churchill in Bayeux - would highly recommend this hotel. Great location, good price, very nice staff. Breakfasts were simple, but good. Took a private 1/2 day tour of D-day sites with Bertrand Saudrais of Executive Day Tours. He was wonderful! Very knowledgeable, passionate, kind and gave us great suggestions on follow up sites/activities to do for the rest of our stay. Would definitely recommend him. He did a great job giving us a ton of fascinating information while also allowing time for the boys to wander and explore the bunkers and gun batteries

Spent one day at Mont St. Michel (we drove), but Hotel Churchill has a shuttle that leaves right from the hotel. We chose to drive to give us more flexibility on how long we stayed. Definitely worth going later in the afternoon, like RS suggests, if it works for your schedule. The crowds are huge and streets on the island are incredibly small. We bypassed the main path up to the Abbey and hiked the stairs which is a more direct route, but steeper. RS recommends this path and I definitely agree! Got great suggestion to get a picnic lunch before leaving because of crowds & high prices. Best advice ever! We picked up baguettes, meat, cheese, fruit and drinks and picnicked from up high overlooking the town below

Dropped off car in Caen and took train back to Paris. Stayed at Signature Hotel Saint-Germain which we LOVED. Manuela at the front desk was amazing, rooms were beautiful with A/C, location was great. Breakfast only OK.

Crowds in Paris were enormous, lines VERY long! Waited 2.5 hrs for the Catacombs, 1.5 to climb Notre Dame tower, Bateaux Mouches were packed, 45 min to walk stairs at Eiffel Tower at 9:30 at night! Would recommend museum pass if going to many of covered sites, get a multi-day metro pass to save money. Make a plan, by day, of what to see based on closures/schedules. We made a priority list and tried to do at least 2 sites/day. Don't try to do it all! We had a great time!

Posted by
782 posts

Great review,we stayed at the Churchill last year and did the full day tour of the battlefields with Overlord,also went to Mt St Michel with our rental car.We are flying into Paris and have to catch the train to St Pierre des Corps,pre bought tickets,landing at 11:30 and getting on the train at 2pm,Hertz at St Pierre closes at 4:30 so we took the chance of the 2 o,clock train.Glad that you enjoyed your trip.
Mike

Posted by
782 posts

Hi Claudineu,
Did you get to the bakery down the street from the Churchill,it is fabulous.
Mike

Posted by
18 posts

Mike - don't think we got to the bakery! Bummer!!

How are you planning on getting from CDG to the train station? Next time around we are just going to get a car to pick us up at the airport. I would definitely recommend either a car or taxi to ensure you make it to the station in time.
Have a great trip!

Posted by
222 posts

Hi claudineu,

Thanks so much for sharing all the good information! We are going in September and this is helpful. We are also taking a tour with Bertrand so nice to hear about that as well. Will put the Paris hotel on my list for next time. I had heard that Europe is super packed this year due to the dollar/euro ratio and other factors. Glad to have this forum and RS books to help get around the crowds when possible.

Do you think Blois would be good to visit for the evening light show? We are going to the others you mentioned and Villandry for the gardens. Did you have a favorite? Was there plenty to do in the evenings outside Paris?

Glad you had a good trip! Can't wait to go back, love it there! :0)

Posted by
18 posts

Jaye - September would be a wonderful time to go! I wish we could have done that but are stuck with summer vacation months because of the kids. I bet it will be a lot less crowded in Sept - there were so many kids there last week which was nice to see! Clearly, though, everyone was doing what we were while the kids were out of school!

The Blois chateau was generally not as impressive (inside) as the other chateau in the area, but if they do the light show in the courtyard in the front I bet it would be beautiful. The day we visited Blois we were on our way back to our hotel so we didn't end up spending any time in the town or visiting the cathedral, both of which I would have really liked to do. There looked to be many pedestrian streets with shops and restaurants that would have been fun to explore and the cathedral is huge and impressive. If you did the light show I would recommend going early and spending some time in town to explore and eat dinner before the show. I'm sure it would be wonderful!!

Have a great time!

Posted by
18 posts

Jaye - sorry...forgot to answer your last 2 questions!

Our favorite chateau by far was Chenonceaux - just spectacular and small enough to feel like it was a real home in years past.
We were amazed at the number of people out in Paris at night...even until very, very late. Reminded me a bit of NYC. As far as things to do, the Eiffel Tower is open late so going up at sunset and staying until all the lights are on is definitely worth doing. Notre Dame tower is open late on Fridays (though you should verify if it still is in Sept) so views from there are awesome too.
The cafes and restaurants are all open late - we often weren't eating until 8:30-9:00 and were there until 10:30ish so finding a great café to have dinner and a glass of wine at would be a great way to spend the evening.

Some of the museums have one day a week where they are open late so check the guide books for those and plan your evenings accordingly. The crowds are much less in the evening so worth going then if it works for you!

Posted by
222 posts

Hi claudineu,

Thanks for all your information! On that last question, I was asking about things to do in the evenings when in Normandy and The Loire Valley (outside Paris). Also, were there any stand-out restaurants you loved? Really appreciate your help and info! So looking forward to seeing beautiful France again.

Posted by
18 posts

Jaye -
Given that the Loire and Normandy were the first week of our trip we were still fighting some jet lag so didn't venture out too much in the evenings (other than dinner) since we were all pretty tired! However, there were some chateau's in the Loire that had special light shows that sounded wonderful we would have liked to see, but there started at dusk which was between 10:30-11:00 when we were there so would have been a late night. Most our dinners were in Amboise trying the different cafes/bistros. We did try to get reservations at Chateau du Pray as it was supposed to be one of the best restaurants in the area, but the night we wanted was booked. I would definitely recommend it as it looked/smelled wonderful! We were staying on site so saw and smelled the dinner prep every night!

In Normandy we only had 3 nights and Bayeux is pretty quiet in the evening. If you go to Mont St. Michel I would definitely recommend going late afternoon and staying late, if you can, to avoid the crowds and see it lit up at night. I believe the Abbey is open until 11:00 but maybe not in Sept?? Either way, worth a night there. If you do the D-day sites, the town of Arromanches was very quaint with a number of cafes along the beach - worth stopping there to see the remnants of the artificial harbor that was built that you can still see off the coast.

Given that we were traveling with 2 teenage boys, we didn't eat at any truly fabulous restaurants - their tastes don't really justify the money we would have spent so we kept it pretty simple at local cafes recommended by the hotel or that we stumbled across.

Hope that helps!

Posted by
222 posts

Yes, it surely does help! Noting down the restaurant - hope we can get in. We will be staying overnight on the Mont, can't wait! Really appreciate your help claudineu!!! Merci!