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Recent trip to Lille

Thanks to everyone who helped me plan our trip to Lille! It was fantastic. Beware, food talk below and I know it's long, but I appreciated the Lille advice and wanted to post what we did, which really was a lot of walking around.

Day one, we arrived by train in the morning from Antwerp by way of the SNCB train, cost was about 15 euros and took about 1:15. We stayed at the Aparthotel Adagio Lille Centre Grand Place, an easy 10 minute walk from the train station. Very nice room, with a full refrigerator and a kitchenette, nice shower, and a comfortable bed. There are two supermarkets close to there, we went there first. Then we walked around the city and ended up at a restaurant called Oh Gourmand'In. It was close to when they were closing, but the manager (owner?) kindly let share a salad with goat cheese and bacon which was delicious. Lille is so walkable, and everyone we met was friendly. We continued to walk around, in the evening we first went to a place called Bocal Fish & More and had a tiny fish appetizer. We sat beside a father and son and talked to them while there, so much fun and so friendly. From there we had a late dinner at a very busy pizza place called Papa Raffale. Walking back to our place about 11pm was great, the city was lit up with beautiful lights.

Day two we started the day at The French Bastards patisserie for quiche and a croissant like pastry with ham and cheese. From there we went to the wonderful Palais des Beaux-Arts de Lille, the fine arts museum. Great museum, we spent four hours there, though no descriptions were in English. The L'apparition de la Famille de L'artiste painting there may be my favorite Marc Chagall painting, and the relief plans downstairs of different cities are amazing. We needed a snack so we had a shrimp salad and duck sushi at Bistro Tao. After this my wife Karen got her haircut by Alexandre at the Alexandre Bruno salon right across the street from our hotel, it was a great experience. From there we went to Bibi’s Cafe in Place du General DeGaulle for a drink to celebrate, a tourist spot but that was alright. We walked around more after that and ended the night having dinner at the L Bistrot de la Ch’Tite Brigitte, one of the estaminet dining spots for local food. We had the croquettes de crevettes and the tasty croque au maroilles cheese and egg dish!

Day three we went to the train station to take the train to La Piscine in Roubaix. This museum of ceramics, decorative arts and painting in a former swimming pool building was so unique and a great experience, it was between that and the Louvre Lens, and we are glad we went to the Piscine. We spent about three hours there, came back and went to see our new friend Lilian who worked at a place call Le Lys, another touristy place and had a drink there. Then we walked to places we had not been and ended up at Ya's Pizza Bar and had a Lebanese dish called man'ouché, pizza dough with thyme, sesame, and olive oil) which was good. We then walked back to the estaminet area, and went to a place called Estaminet Au Soyeux. We got the plate of the "Silk" an assortment of Lil regional specialties on one plate: Flemish carbonnade, Welsh rarebit, potjevleesch, and chicken with the Maroilles cheese.

We left the next day, but not before the best quiche I had ever had at boulangerie Maison Papillon. We loved Lille, and while we couldn't do all we wanted, we treated it as a chill place to relax. We hope to return!

Posted by
182 posts

IggyStooge, thanks for detailing your recent visit to Lille. My husband and I will be there for four nights next month, so I am gobbling up all the advice I can find. For the estaminets, did you make reservations, or were you able to just walk in? We will be there over a weekend.

Posted by
252 posts

I have friends who live in Lille and I've been there several times but I stay with them rather than a hotel. We're going back in December - really just stopping there on our way from Brussels to Amiens. I'll look for the museum you mentioned, I never heard of it before.

I've been to the museum that had the Flemish artwork and Delft tiles - think it was the Musée de l'Hospice Comtesse. Did you see that one, too?

Not being much of a foodie, I don't remember any restaurants in particular that I've eaten at there, but maybe I'll keep an eye out for some of the ones you mentioned.

Posted by
147 posts

Hi Laurie, we did make a reservation at Le Bistrot de la Ch'Tite Brigitte, you should go there, it was really good and a unique atmosphere. They have a couple in the same area so go to the original restaurant. For the second night, we made a reservation, it never confirmed but we went there anyway, and when we got there they had a sign that they were closed for holiday. Would have been nice if they would not let you make a reservation, but anyway we just went to the other place and it was fine. But we were eating late, 9pm, so I definitely would do reservations. Many of these estaminets are on the same street right beside each othere. I will say again, that croque au maroilles at Le Bistrot de la Ch'Tite Brigitte was one of the best things we ate. Bon appetit!

Posted by
147 posts

Hi Stella, we did see the Musée de l'Hospice Comtesse, but did not go there, I think it is near the estaminet restaurant section. It seemed interesting, we probably would have gone there if we would have had time. We kind of used this trip as more of a relaxing place and less of a must-do kind of place. Have a great time!

Posted by
3839 posts

Thank you so much for posting! Lille has always been in the back of my mind. Maybe someday my ideas for a trip to Northern France will come to fruition.

Posted by
11539 posts

I'm so glad you enjoyed Lille - I think it's just fabulous. Thank you for all the specific recommendations you have shared.

Posted by
182 posts

IggyStooge, thanks for the estaminet advice. L Bistrot de la Ch’Tite Brigitte looks delicious! We will definitely make reservations for there. It's a shame about the other estaminet allowing reservations during their holiday time. Something like that happened to us in Perpignan last year. We ended up walking into another restaurant and eating one of the best meals of the trip.

Posted by
9986 posts

Thank you so much for this trip report of Lille! I keep contemplating returning to France after a RS tour in another country next year. Italy is trying to pull into my plans with its tentacles, but I’m trying to resist. I was thinking of flying into Brussels to stay in Ghent & Bruges. Then 1-2 cities on the way to Paris.

I’m glad to hear you liked the art museum in Lille. Your descriptions of food are appreciated, too! ; )

Have you stayed at Amiens?

Posted by
1624 posts

Lille will forever be a *coup de cœur *. It's such a magical city - especially when it gets dark and the Grand Place and the Opéra are illuminated.

Posted by
252 posts

Have you stayed at Amiens?

Not sure if you were asking the OP or me, but I have been to Amiens many times including a five month visit when I was doing a language study program. I know it very well.

If you want to know more about Amiens, just say the word! I don't want to hijack the thread into another direction, but I can tell you anything you want to know!

Posted by
9986 posts

StellaB, I was asking the original author, but I will happily send you a PM!