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Reasonable trip itinerary?

Trying out some different options for a first trip to France. How does this sound? Too much?
My husband and I will be in France for two weeks, arriving in Paris Tuesday November 23rd and departing Paris Tuesday December 8th. So 13 days, not counting the two days of flights in and out of Paris. Not interested in the Christmas markets.

Paris Tuesday through Friday, (meeting family there) then train to Lyon on Friday am.

Lyon - Friday through Sunday. Not planning on driving in Lyon.

Monday: Rent a car in Lyon, drive to Carcassonne. OR train to Carcassonne and rent a car there. Spend part of a day in Carcassonne for the fortress and of course the cassoulet. (Should we plan to stay the night here?)

Meander to Albi for a couple of nights, so Monday afternoon through Wednesday.

Meander to Sarlat la Caneda on Thursday through Saturday. Return the car and train back to Paris on Sunday.

Sunday and Monday in Paris

Fly home on Tuesday.

Posted by
947 posts

To be able to provide suggestions, what led you to choose these destinations? What about them appeals to you? They are somewhat far apart, but more significantly (to me), in each location (Carcassonne, Albi, Sarlat), there are so many other things to see and do, that it seems a bit of a shame that you won't have time.

The drive from Lyon to Albi via Carcassonne will be a long day; Google maps says 6 hours, and that doesn't include any stops for gas and other things. Add on to that a couple of hours in Carcassonne, and you're arriving in Albi late in the day. I have visited Albi, as a day trip. I thought it was nice, but I would visit only if I was already staying in that area.

In terms of the history of the region, Carcassonne is scenic, but some people don't like that it's heavily reconstructed. There are other (more ruinous) sites in the area that people find interesting and historic, but it depends on what you like. (Google "Cathar castles;" the terminology is not quite accurate, but will give you an idea of what I'm referring to - Lastours is close, and further southeast there's Queribus and Peyrepertuse). You could spend days in that area alone.

Sarlat and the entire Dordogne is worth many days, or a week. Do you like castles (primarily from the Hundred Years' War era), or prehistoric sites, or beautiful scenery and boat rides on a river, along with distinctive local cuisine? If you enjoy any of those, consider perhaps saving Albi and Carcassonne for another trip, and driving straight to the Dordogne.

Posted by
4216 posts

As lexma said, driving from Lyon to Albi via Carcassonne is a long trip. Also, it depends on where you start in Lyon; leaving on a weekday morning (like a Monday), you'll likely run into the usual commuter traffic. So a 6h estimate with no stops is extremely optimistic, even for a local used to this route.

Given these conditions, I don't see how you could visit Carcassonne in a single day and push on to Albi, especially while enjoying a cassoulet. The post-cassoulet food coma is much better suited for a nap than driving, especially after hours behind the wheel since early morning. :-) In my opinion, the wisest and most practical option is to stay overnight in Carcassonne.

From there, it comes down to history: as lexma pointed out, the medieval city was restored in the 19th century under the aesthetic direction of Viollet-le-Duc in a pseudo-medieval style with heavy Gothic influences, ending up looking more like a Disneyland castle than its original self. Take it or leave it.

The Cathar castles (even though they aren't actually Cathar) have remained in their original condition. Visiting them would take several days given how spread out they are across the region, and some require a bit of a hike since you can't drive right up to them.

Albi is a nice town, but I don't think it warrants more than a full day and an overnight stay. The city is lit up in December, and there's a video-mapping light show on the cathedral in the evenings, typically starting around the second weekend of December. The same goes for Castres, the region's other major city.

Albi and Castres in December 2025:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rjobBoZ1G5pBM5KK6

If you stick to your itinerary, I can point out an easy and pleasant way to get from Carcassonne to Albi while bypassing Toulouse (along with a few good spots to stop along the way).

As for the Dordogne, don't make the mistake of hyper-focusing on Sarlat, especially coming from Albi or nearby. Sarlat is located at the far western edge of the Dordogne valley and isn't inherently more interesting than many other spots in the Dordogne that are much easier to reach from Albi. Just because Rick Steves only visited Sarlat doesn't mean it's the only place worth seeing. Sarlat deserves a half-day visit, but nothing more. Once again, I can show you a smart and interesting way to get there from Albi.

Keep in mind, though, that this will be in December. Don't expect to stroll around in the sun through charming villages with packed café terraces like you see in travel magazines. From a tourist perspective, quite a few things will be closed, rivers activities like kayaking & excursions are suspended until April (at least), it can be cold and rainy, and it gets dark by 6:00 PM. People aren't wandering around outside, for the most part, they head straight home after work to watch TV. Agricultural activity in these rural areas pauses for a few months.

I feel bad pointing out all these downsides, but I just want you to have a realistic idea of ​​what to expect.

Posted by
12038 posts

Take a direct TGV from Lyon to Narbonne, 3 hours and as low as 39€ each if bought in advance. Rent your car in Narbonne.
You could switch to a local train to Carcassonne in Narbonne but your rental options in Carcassonne are more limited.

Your time in Paris boils down to 2 days and Lyon 2.5.
Need more time in Carcassonne. Even if it’s a restoration, it’s at least the third castle built over a prehistoric site. Sarlat is a bit of a drive and transportation to Paris from Sarlat is long: local trains to Bordeaux and then TGV.

Days are very short at that time of year. JoLui said 6 pm, I say it’s dark closer to 5. Dordogne is dead and rainy in winter. You need to simplify this trip.

I wouldn’t go further than Albi. Go back to Toulouse. Fly Toulouse to CDG, if that’s your departure airport, the afternoon before your transatlantic flight home. Stay at an airport hotel the night before your flight.

Posted by
8 posts

Thank you all for your very kind input. Very good points, we don't want to spend too much time in travel, and would really prefer a slow pace of visiting France.
Over thinking the trip entirely now, lol.. Maybe we concentrate on spending more time in Paris on both the front and back end of the trip and choose one other area and explore there.

We really aren't interested in whole bunch of touristy attractions, would rather just enjoy the people, food, wine etc. to get a taste of France.

So maybe just Lyon, rent a car and explore that area? Or Lyon and train to Avignon and stay in St Remy rent a car there and exlpore?
Thoughts?

Posted by
4216 posts

Lyon is the capital of French gastronomy, so you can't go wrong when it comes to food. however they don't know the first thing about cassoulet. Don't even think about getting a decent one out there. :-)

Spending a few days in Provence seems wiser than heading as far out as Albi and the Dordogne, but keep in mind the usual reminder: don't confuse summer with December. The contrast between the two seasons in Provence can be even starker if you're basing your expectations on travel brochures showing lavender fields, chirping cicadas, and outdoor terrace dinners.

You could also take the train as far as Montpellier to explore the surrounding area. You can just as easily rent a car in Provence or in Montpellier. Lyon is a big city with great public transit where having a car can be a total headache.

Getting back from Montpellier to Paris is quick and easy on the TGV. Elizabeth could tell you more since it's right up her alley.

Posted by
8 posts

JoLui,
I like what you have suggested and I think that will be the plan going forward.

Elizabeth, if you have any suggestions for that plan and area, I would love to hear them.

Thanks again everyone!!

Posted by
12038 posts

I think you'd be fine with three places, five nights each. Counting in nights is more accurate. I would avoid the smaller towns such as Saint Rémy-en-Provence or "Cathar" Castles from November to Easter because a lot is closed up, shorter hours, damp, gloomy. I wouldn't go to any of the small Provence towns. This is a time of year where cities are better because shops, tourist sites, and events don't shut down. I also wouldn't split Paris but do all your nights at the end.

My suggestion:
Go directly to Lyon on your arrival day by plane or train directly from the airport. Spend 5 nights. Possible day trips: Vienne for the wonderful Roman ruins or Perougues for a medieval village. I don't know how lively Perougues is in winter, though. Vienne doesn't depend on tourism, so all will be open.

Next, take the TGV to Montpellier (2 hours) and spend five nights. The city has a lot to offer, but you could do day trips to Nîmes, Sète, Avignon, even Arles (all 15 minutes to an hour from Montpellier), and even Carcassonne which is 1.5 hours each way for your cassoulet. If you rent a car, you can go to the beach and the Camargue. Backtracking to Avignon might seem strange, but the Lyon to Montpellier TGV doesn't stop in Avignon, but a local train goes inland to Avignon from Montpellier in one hour.

Finally, take the TGV to Paris (3.5 hours) and stay another 5 nights. This gives you four days (5 nights) in Lyon, 5 days in Montpellier, 5 in Paris, especailly if you take the 6, 7, 8 or even 9 am train, you arrive before lunch. And you could take a day from Montpellier and give it to Lyon.

Posted by
8 posts

Elizabeth, I am so grateful for your suggestions. You have basically planned a trip that we have been struggling to "get right". Our first time to France so we didn't want to screw it up!
Many many thanks!!

Posted by
4216 posts

Once you have a clear idea of ​​your itinerary, and if you are traveling by train, use the SNCF website to book your tickets:

https://www.sncf-connect.com/en-en

If you head straight to Lyon upon arrival at Paris CDG as Elizabeth suggests, trains depart from the airport station roughly every 90 minutes. You will reach Lyon in 2h.

Note that OUIGO trains are the low-cost option, prices are lower but almost everything comes with an extra charge (additional luggage, seat selection, etc.). "INOUI" trains are the standard TGV trains.

Ticket prices increase as the travel date approaches.

Posted by
12038 posts

Your second trip could be to Sarlat via Bordeaux and on south to Albi, Toulouse and all that area has to offer. Ideally, you’d be able to come before November 2 when a lot closes or has shorter hours in the rural areas.

Posted by
8 posts

Any suggestions as to where to stay in Montpellier? I'm thinking we will try to book the Hotel des Celestines in Lyon.