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Questions about Côte d'Azur

I am playing with the idea of adding 8 nights in France to our month in London next May. We want to spend 2 days/3 nights in Paris to see the French Open (early rounds). But I have always wanted to visit the Picasso, Chagall, and Matisse museums in the area around Nice, and this may be the best time. so I am thinking of taking the TGV to Antibes to spend four nights/3 days. Each day we would visit one museum and then do a 3-5 hour walk, either city walk, seaside, or uphill. We would also some time to swim in the sea but we do not sunbathe. After 4 nights we would take the train to Avignon for one night, then the next day return to Paris to catch a Eurostar back to London.

My questions:

Is this a good general plan? I chose Antibes over Nice as we prefer smaller towns, and over Villefranche as the travel time from Paris is shorter. We would visit Villefranche for a day of walking.

Should we stay in Antibes or Juan-les-Pins?

Are there walking paths from the coast up to the hillside towns such as Eze? we do not enjoy walking of narrow roads with traffic so prefer a dedicated walking path. Steep and rocky is fine.

This will be the last week of May. How much impact will we feel from the Cannes Film Featival, which ends May 25?

Any places you would particularly recommend for walking? Can we easily get into the Camargue with public transport?

Posted by
10344 posts

Hi Lola,
Just answering your one of your questions, yes, there's a walking/hiking path up to Eze-le-Village. It's a significant elevation gain and is on a southern slope and so would be exposed to the sun, but it's May so perhaps it won't be terribly hot. Depending on the weather, you'd want to bring adequate water and probably have a hat that would shade the back of your neck as you are ascending.
The disadvantage of hiking is that there's a 5-star hideaway resort with two terrace bars (the beautiful people sleep here, it's that kind of place) with a jaw-dropping view of the coast below, but if you hike you'll arrive sweaty or worse, and they do have a dress code that they apply rigorously to non-guests.
An option would be to hike down, after you have a glass of wine at LaChevre d'Or.

Posted by
17429 posts

Thanks, Kent! I assume you are talking about La Chevre d'Or? We would likely prefer to enjoy the view from outside anyway.

Where would we find the lower end of the footpath to start the hike up?

Posted by
10344 posts

Lola,
Yes, I was referring to La Chevre d'Or. We were permitted to sit at a table and order wine from the one La Chevre terrace open to non-guests, and I'd have to say it was the best view with glass of wine I've ever had.
Look at the first post on this discussion thread, from a person who hiked down that trail, the trail I'm thinking of is called the Nietzsche trail:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/to-the-west/nieztsche-trail-to-eze-do-we-dare

Posted by
10344 posts

Lola,
We did not hike the Nietzsche trail. We were staying in Nice and took the train to the other Eze (the one on the coast) and then a bus up to Eze-le-Village.

It may be helpful to look at my 2007 post (the 2nd post) on the thread below
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/to-the-west/getting-to-eze
which has directions on how to get to Eze-le-Village by bus,
and also see Christy's post (same thread) on walking down the Nietzsche trail.

Posted by
4684 posts

If you are into art I would also strongly recommend visiting the Maeght art museum in St Paul de Vence, and Magritte's chapel in Vence itself.

Posted by
11294 posts

I much preferred the vibe in Juan-les-Pins to that of Antibes, but that's just me. Juan-les-Pins also has a sandy beach instead of a rocky one, if that helps you decide. There are frequent trains and buses between the two, so you can easily stay in one and spend lots of time in the other, or go back and forth whenever you wish.

I agree that if you want to make this trip about art, the Fondation Maeght should be on your short list.

Posted by
33832 posts

My concern wouldn't be with the film festival - because I don't do movies, I suppose, but with the Monte Carlo Formula 1 circus which is usually about then, but I don't think next year's F1 calendar has be finalised yet.

If you are there during F1 week you should know that hotel rates shoot through the roof and the whole coast becomes a zoo.

If not, it could be fab, but warm.

Check which beaches have sand and which gravel or pebbles. Not nice (for me) on gravel or sharp pebbles.

My favourite walk is around Cap Ferrat.

Posted by
33832 posts

Are you not interested in Renoir's final home?

Incredible views which match his paintings and a good look at his studio. Would be easy from Antibes.

Posted by
17429 posts

Thanks everyone! I know the dates are not ideal, given events in the area. We would arrive May 26, a Thursday, after spending three days at the French Open. The Cannes Film festival ends on May 25 ( according to their website). It looks like the big Monaco car race would be that weekend; something we would definitely want to avoid!

So I know it is not ideal, but I don't know when else we would have a chance to visit this area----probably not before September 2017. If we don't go to Côte d' Azur after Paris, we could return to the UK and go walking in Wales. . . . or Cornwall . . . . or the Lake District. Those are all tempting too.

I'll see if I can find hotel prices for late next May. That may be the decider---we don't care to pay inflated event prices (unless we are going for the event).