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Provence: Some tips and observations for newbies

I am not going to make a detailed trip report, because most of the
essential points have been covered by others, but just want to point
out a few tips and observations.
1. Through a mixup with Europcar at Avignon TGV station (we hadarrived earlier than we had told them), we ended up with a car with a navigation device -a real blessing and well worth the extra 10 euros day (I think it was). Even though we had a good Michelin map and our phones, there were many places where we could not receive service, and with the map, it was confusing on the very small roads between towns. Husband was driver and I was navigator and we took a few wrong turns, mostly at times when I disagreed with the nav device from looking at the map 😝. So long as we heeded the advice of the "Goddess of the Dashboard," all was well. I can't recommend this enough.
2. To state the obvious, and as has been said many times: BEST NOT TO GO TO PROVENCE IN JULY/AUGUST. There was an opportunity for us go so we took it, and I am not sorry, but I certainLy would not do it again.
Just sayin. Although it was hot, it was the crowds that were most stressful. Of course as it turns out, this year it was even hotter in
June at times, so who knows what the future will be? AC in car and hotel helped immensely.
3. Interesting to me that by far the majority of tourists were French. I enjoyed that, as my French is serviceable enough that we could have some conversations with them. I really appreciated both their tolerance of my stumbling speech and their eagerness to help me learn and we had good, friendly exchanges about many things, including the economics and politics of both countries.
4. We loved St Remy as a base. We stayed at the hotel du soleil and liked it very much. Lovely pool and hosts with good advice. The pool in the late afternoon with a glass of rose and un plat de fromage avec pain made a nice entree into the evening. That said, I might prefer a gite, or air BNB next time, in order to have a closer relationship with the hosts, as some on this forum have spoken of, and also to be able to make my own breakfast, or bring home a roast chicken for lunch or dinner, etc. But I couldn't find one for this trip with the all important AC and pool, so. Maybe next time.
5. Easy to get to all the places we wanted to go from St Remy. Nice day trip to the Luberon, beautiful. We did the loop that included Gordes, Bonnieux, the Senaquie abbey ( the lavender was still there but faded), Rouissillon - gorgeous but a mob scene so we didn't spend as long as would have liked. Got to Menerbes in the late afternoon and that was our favorite of them all. For some reason it was less crowded, maybe time of day. But also a beautiful town and easy place to just hang with a cup of tea. The surrounding area is gorgeous as well, I can see why Peter Mayles fell in love with it.
6. Spent a lovely day in Arles. Great Saturday market, ooh la la. Did not get to Avignon or Aix, but we didn't mind. Liked Arles but happier to stay in St Remy, for us. That said, you have to have a car if you stay in St Remy and want to do day trips.
7. Great shops and restaurants in St Remy, also nice galleries. Fave restaurants: L'Estaingol (we ate there twice, wonderful oysters) and L'Aile ou la Cuisse.
8. We stopped at Lourmarin on our way to visit friends in the Var. Another lovely town. Visited the cemetery where Albert Camus was buried and paid our respects. I loved the way people had planted pens in the ground around his grave. They respect writers in France.
9. If you ever want to venture farther east than most tourists do, there are many lovely lakes and forests in the Var, and a spectacular gorge. If you want to know more details, just ask me.

Thanks to all the previous posters who advised me along the way...All in all, we loved Provence, the people, the towns, the Van Gogh
remembrances and the countryside. If we go again, we will try for May or October. Enjoy!

Posted by
7049 posts

BEST NOT TO GO TO PROVENCE IN JULY/AUGUST.

Isn't that exactly when the lavender fields bloom in Provence? Or the sunflowers?

Posted by
6902 posts

July is lavender season indeed (not August), but it is hot (too hot to hike), crowded in places, and more expensive. I agree that lavender alone does not tip the balance in favor of July. If you have the choice, April-June and September-October are better.
As for sunflowers, they're all over France.

Posted by
3941 posts

We went early July last year because of the lavender - and I was expecting crowds and I was actually very surprised by what I perceived to be lack of crowds - most of the towns we visited were very sleepy and quiet - even St Remy. The biggest crowd was at Forcalquier, and that's because we went on their huge market day. We ran into some traffic around Manosque, but luckily it was going the other way and would be at 'rush hour' when folks were heading home. Maybe because I was expecting horrible crowds, the reality was much better.

Yes, it was hot, but luckily it was a dry heat and having a new car with AC made a big difference.

I've been trying to come up with a place we found really busy - even Aix wasn't that bad. We visited Roussillon but it was after hours so it was deserted. But we stopped at a lot of small villages like Greoux, Moustiers, Sault...I guess we were just lucky...

But glad you had fun - it is a beautiful spot!

Posted by
7034 posts

Interesting what you had to say about Roussillon being so crowded that you didn't stay long. I stayed in Roussillon as my base and I think that made a big difference. I explored the town and took most of my photos early in the morning and then left for the day to explore other towns and sights. When I returned in the evening for dinner, there were people around but not the crowds that others describe. I think that may be the best way to go - stay in the crowded touristy place and enjoy it in the morning and evening. This is the advice most often offered about Venice and the Cinque Terre villages and really does make a lot of sense.

Also, like a previous poster, I went in early july and the lavender was at its peak, there were plenty of sunflower fields in bloom, the crowds weren't horrible, and the heat was not overpowering. I guess if someone asked me when to go to Provence, I would say June through mid-July.

Posted by
109 posts

Well, perhaps in my wish to advise others, I overstated my case 😚...and many of you make good points.

I can imagine that staying in Rouissillon would be delightful, thereby having quiet and beauty in morning and evening. That would be a great way to go.

I believe that June and early July are generally better than mid to late July, as far as crowds and heat and probably also lavender. This year of course was an exception, with an abnormal heat wave in June. Of course, this was a crazy year, heat wise in Europe, but I fear we cannot assume this will get better in the future.

It also seems as though the lavender depends on which part of Provence and the vicissitudes of the climate that year. We have friends who go frequently and swear by June for lavender - but they stay farther to the west, near Orange and Nimes, I think. In mid July we found most of the lavender was either faded or harvested, but I don't think that's usually the case. We did however find lots of lavender in the Var, which is farther east and a bit higher. But I agree with the poster who said the lavender would not tip the balance for her, and that April-June or September-October would be her preference . Moi aussi, and cheers.

Posted by
3941 posts

We were there from about July 3 for 8 nights and we stayed more westerly in Salon then moved a bit more east to Manosque to do the ‘lavender trail’.

We have also been there in early Oct twice. It’s really lovely then as well. Weather still really warm that we used the AC in our Airbnb, but we also hit some torrential rain. I’m glad I got to see the lavender, but now I’d def only think about returning in early autumn or late spring. I don’t do well in extreme heat, as dry as it was.

Posted by
9420 posts

Oh my goodness Rachel, thank you so much for this post with such great tips and info. We’re going to Provence in mid-Sept, staying in St Rémy at Hotel du Soleil too! Also getting a rental at Avignon TGV through AutoEurope. Loved hearing that St Rémy has fun shops, and your two fave restaurants. We’ll try them for sure. Thanks!!
Are you home now?... : )

Posted by
473 posts

We loved our base of Vaison la Romain. Big enough to have plenty to do and all the services you could want. We were there last month and we just missed the big heatwave. You definitely need air conditioning. Definitely want to return

Posted by
109 posts

Hi Susan, how funny that you are basing yourselves at the same hotel! I think you will enjoy the hotel and St. Remy in September and we can "talk more" later.

We are now in Corfu and will be busy on a workshop for the next week, so my response time might be limited. Will be in touch after I return to the US.

Richard, thank you for your input re vaison la romain. So many great places to visit in Provence! If only one had the time and the money!!

Posted by
227 posts

We are also going to be in Provence September 8-12 staying in St. Remy but at Maison de la Line in a cottage. Our plan of things to do is very similar to Momorichel; the Luberon, Arles as well as Pont du Gard, etc. Has anyone gone to Chateau la Canorgue for wine tasting? My husband doesn't drink wine but I do and I would love to go to at least one winery while in that area. Anyway, all of these posts are great! We are also renting from AutoEurope in Avignon. Was the navigation system built in with the big screen in the middle or a Garmin unit. Definitely plan on adding that to our car.

Posted by
109 posts

The navigation system was built in with screen on the dashboard, hence our calling it Our Lady of the Dashboard. You might have to request that in advance, I don’t know for sure. As I said, we got this “by chance” (or luck, or synchronicity) because they didn’t have the car we had asked for ready when we arrived. We had never had one like that before and it was invaluable.

Sounds like you will have a great trip! I am sorry we didn't manage to fit in wine tasting, but can’t do everything.

Posted by
3941 posts

We didn’t request GPS with any of our Europcar rentals but all 3 had them when we rented in France - even as far back as 2012. Didn’t pay any extra for it...it was just part of the car...I imagine most of the new cars they use now would just come with it.

Posted by
678 posts

Just to note, the Luberon will many times be past it's peak in mid-July. You then have to head up north to the Valensole plateau, or towards Sault, the later you get in the season. The later in the summer, the higher you go (And the fields, as noted, extend throughout the Var, and some towns have big festivals in August)