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Provence for Art, Architecture, Views, and Photography

Hello fellow travelers.

My next trip is to Provence to enjoy the fine art museums, architecture, and photography. Wonderful people, food and culture are always a delight.
One issue: timing. I'd love to enjoy the fragrance and sight of lavender in bloom but am not a fan of the heat (or crowds).
I have only begun my research. so I have more lists than plans!

I have about 10 nights for the area to possibly see:
St. Remy - Van Gogh, ampitheater
Arles - Van Gogh, Cathedral
Camargue - wildlife, Les Saintes Maries de la Mer
Avignon - palace of the Popes, cathedral & gardens
Pont du Gard
Gordes
Villenneuve
Roussillon
L'Isle sur la sorge
Loumarin
Goult
Aix
Is the Carrieres de Lumieres worth it?
I'm open to your suggestions for a practical home base or two (or 3). I'll get a car where needed.
Please share your don't-miss places and recommended art museums.

Thanks for any suggestions!
Lee

Posted by
1059 posts

Provence is best with a car, and that will allow you to stay in some smaller villages (not Avignon or Arles) and avoid major crowds. St. Remy is a popular choice for a base at the west of the Luberon. It’s well positioned for drivers. Aix is quite far to the east by comparison, but seems universally beloved. Those are probably your top choices, with perhaps a third between (Roussilon?) depending on your style.

Though there’s no shortage of artistic history here, there’s not so much in the way of real artworks. I enjoyed Arles, but imo all the Van Gogh references feel thin. Still, the amphitheater, ruins, and Roman Museum are excellent and the town is rather lovely. Avignon is a bust, and the Papal Palace is the bust of busts on the bust. Seriously, don’t even bother going in. It’s empty. Resist the expensive temptation of walking out on the stupid bridge too. Combine Pont du Garde with a quick stop in Avignon and get out.

I think you’ll find Provence’s markets very rewarding, and many of the towns on your list have good ones. Schedule them in. They’re all a bit different, and to me they are the encapsulation of the region.

I stayed Vaison-la-Romaine, in the Dentelles de Montmirail. This is an awesome area too, though farther north than your other destinations. The Roman theatre in Orange is amazing, and not quite as far. The town itself is average, but a quick side trip for the theatre is well worth it.

Posted by
3647 posts

There are a number of art museums, each devoted to a single artist, that may interest you. I am remembering Picasso (Antibes), Leger (Biot), and Renoir (Cagnes sur Mer),

Posted by
2866 posts

to add to the above, I second the Picasso museum in Antibes and the Renoir home -- both better than you'd expect.

re: Orange, if you're an Albert Belleroche fan then you'll hit the jackpot in Orange's art gallery. Also great for WWII events.

Nimes fans will also chime in; Rick's guidebook for Provence has great itineraries.

Posted by
10729 posts

Just one problem with the above two suggestions: the OP is visiting Provence. Antibes, Biot, and Cagnes are on the Côte d’Azur. They are in the same region, PACA, but are different areas. The closest suggested is 2 hours away.

Posted by
2566 posts

We stayed in Roussillon and Les Beaux on our trip to southern France in early to mid July 2015 and did day trips from those locations. It will not just be hot but also humid but if you want to see the lavender and sunflower fields that is when you have to go.. Look for hotels with ac and if possible a swimming pool to cool off. I did a lot of hand washed laundry on that trip because after being out all day our clothes were unwearable. But I knew that would be the case and went anyway to see the lavender. It was worth it. I agree that Avignon was not very interesting and definitely don’t bother going in the papal palace. But Avignon might be worth a brief look see if you have time. The arts festival was going on when we were there and crazy busy. Definitely go to the Carrieres de Lumieres. It is beautiful and also a cool respite from the heat and humidity. Enjoy your trip to Provence. It is spectacular.

Posted by
102 posts

Thanks to each of you for your very helpful info. I do have 5 nights planned for Nice. I doubt I can resist a day trip for the glitz and glamor of Monte Carlo, perhaps Menton - but I was saving that for a separate post. I need to nail down the plans for Provence first.

You saved me from making Avignon a base. Of the three: St Remy, Aix, and Roussillon, which has easier/free parking? It would be nice to get back to a town with options for meals and such.

Thanks!
Lee