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Post trip thoughts

On the flight home, I thought about what went well and/or according to plan and what didn’t or what I would have done differently. This seems to happen every time, so I thought it might be helpful to share. Our dates were 9/20-10/6.

This was our basic itinerary:
3 nights Bayeux
3 nights Loire (Amboise)
3 nights Burgundy (Beaune)
6 nights Paris

Above all, weather was a bigger factor than we anticipated. It didn’t stop us from doing anything we wanted to, but it was colder and wetter than expected. The locals we met assured us it was somewhat unusually, but always bring rain gear. We could have saved luggage space by leaving all warm weather/swimming clothes at home.

Bayeux and Amboise, in a good way, were bigger cities than we expected. Especially Bayeux. They were both delightful cities. We could have spent more time in the cities themselves. That said, a lot of shoppes and quite a few restaurants were closed in both cities. I assume this was at least partially seasonal. Nothing you can do about the shoppes, but we would have greatly benefited from making dinner reservations ahead of time, especially in Amboise.

Amboise wine tasting:
We explored two regions; Cheverny and Chinon. Simply put, skip Cheverny. The wine in Cheney was pretty ok. The scenery and wine itself in Chinon was far superior. It was also very reasonably priced. I’m sure there’s plenty great wine we missed, but this was our experience.

Guedelon:
We used this to breakup our trip from Amboise to Beaune. I had probably too high expectations for this. At first we were very underwhelmed. All of the various exhibitions were empty, unmanned. Turns out, they were just at lunch! Seriously. An hour later, they were all cobbling away. Try to avoid going at lunch time.

Beaune:
Food highlight of the trip. La Lune was the best meal we had on the whole trip. Not exactly traditional but just amazing. Beaune is the French and maybe world capital for wine, for good reason. It is very, very good, but could also be very expensive.

Dijon:
We used this as stopover on the way to Paris. Highly recommend the “owl trail.” It’s a self-guided, marked path through the city. It was a great way to see the sites efficiently. There were several museums along the way that were mostly free, including the main city museum. Our Dijon visit was a highlight of the whole trip, and we were only there for half a day. It is a wonderful, medium sized city and we wished we would have spent the night there.

Paris:
It’s amazing. Get comfortable biking. Just go and spend as much time as you can there.

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247 posts

Thank you for the great trip report. In Paris is there one meal that is particularly memorable to you? How about any surprising gems while sightseeing, or a favorite museum?

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10578 posts

Glad you gave Dijon the praise it deserves. After all, it was the capital of the large, powerful Duchy of Burgundy and remains the capital of the region.

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8498 posts

weather is changing. we have come to Paris in October for years and generally had sunny temperate weather with the occasional shower. Last year it poured rain nearly every day. Unusual everyone said. Well here we are again and the weather is rainy and miserable and dank. I am thinking it is not so unusual. We started in Italy and like you our balance of clothing packed is not quite right.

but a town like Paris is full of places to fill in wardrobe gaps. My husband is a notorious underpacker and we have often filled in his wardrobe on the rode. Last year he forgot to pack pants -- so the only trousers he had was what he wore on the plane and so our first task was buying him jeans. It is easy to fill in the gaps in Paris.

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664 posts

We enjoyed several days in Dijon 2.5 years ago. It has an interesting historic area and a wonderful fine arts museum. It is a great walking town too.

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Dinners:
Le Petit Chatelet was my favorite. Even though it was on the main drag, it seems very authentic. Food was delicious. Setting was great. Host was amazing. Not terribly expensive. It was also the only place “house” wine was as offered, which was very good.

Museums:
Musee d’Orsay. I’m a history buff and my wife is more into art, but Orsay houses the perfect collection IMO. Mostly late 19th century, early 20th century. I’m not an art connoisseur, but I dig the impressionists. Plus the converted train station is an excellent setting.

Musee des Invalades. My wheelhouse. It’s several museums in one. Napoleon’s tomb isnt just a crypt. It’s a converted cathedral with amazing architecture. We spent a couple of hours in the ww1 and ww2 sections of the museum and never even made it to the 16th-18th century sections. I could have spent an entire day or more here.

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247 posts

Thank you for the restaurant recommendation, that looks great.
I agree with you about Musee D'Orsay, I could go back there every trip!
If you like history (particularly WWII) did you get to visit The Liberation of Paris Museum. It's not very big, but very interesting, presenting stories of resistance fighters and the lead up to the liberation of the city. And it's free!

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52 posts

There was something very similar in the invalides museum. We enjoyed that. My wife especially liked that there was a heavy focus on the female resistance fighters.

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23 posts

jonathanhandres Thanks for the trip report! We are doing a very similar itinerary starting 10/19. Dijon was on our list, now I think we will definitely go there as a day trip from Beaune. I will look at the "owl trail". You confirmed my thoughts on how quite Bayeaux might be. We are bringing a packable down jacket and rain jacket. I hope this will keep us both warm and dry!