Pont du Gard: Has it changed that much?

They've built a nice visitor's center and museum, and there is a snack bar etc. there near the entrance. It's really a lovely museum (I'm not a big museum person myself) that explains the history of the aqueduct, the Roman colonization of the region, etc. But it doesn't feel like "Disney" at all - very tasteful. Plus, it's still a half a mile walk or so from there to the aqueduct. You can't see the visitor's center from the aqueduct.

Yes, you do have to pay to enter the site.

We last went in 2015, and while there is a visitor Center, we did not go in (on either of our visits...we also visited with a day tour that went in 2012]. There was a place to get food as well, but they aren’t near the Pont itself...you still have a few minutes walk from the visitor Center, and aren’t visible from the bridge (my recollection). But in a hot day, it would sure be nice to get an ice cream or a cold drink, or have a bathroom to use. Our 2nd visit when we went on our own, we didn’t arrive until later in the afternoon and by the time we left, the visitor center was closed.

As for the fee...well, they have to keep the ruins from crumbling somehow. And still blissfully handrail free...at least in 2015.

For an experience totally free of tourists and gift shops, go to the barbegal mill and aquaduct near Arles: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbegal_aqueduct_and_mill

Thank you so much, everyone -- this was all very helpful. I'm reassured that a person can have a look at the aqueduct without sight of the visitors' center, but still go to the visitors' center for insight and a cold drink. Perfect.

Wonderful travels to all of you!

Two years ago we went there by bike in July. Got a little lost and popped out right by tbe top! Totally avoided the visitor center, but there were alot of large tour groups. Beautiful swim in the river😀

Well it is like damn if one does and damn if one does not. 25 years ago, you know nothing stays to same; word of mouth generates tourism (you probably told someone about what you saw and suggested they go and then that someone else told someone and so on) and that causes problems for the area fixed by charging admission; for example you do not see graffiti on the Pont du Gard.

Surely no one would begrudge the French state and local authorities an entrance fee that enables them to maintain the monument and keep it available for future generations.

The pont itself looks mostly the same as it always has. You do enter at the visitor center and pay. yes there are snacks and a bathroom. it's a big place.