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Pere Lachaise

I'm flying out of CDG at 3:00 pm on a Wednesday in March. I didn't want to chance it by taking a train in the same day so, I'm overnighting in Paris, arriving at Gare de l'Est. I've been to Paris multiple times, and will be there a couple weeks later for 4 days. I've never been to Pere Lachaise, and since I'm an early riser and I'll need to leave for CDG by 11:00, I thought it might be a good time to visit it. Looking for advice on staying near the cemetery vs. the train station vs near an RER line. Which seems most logical? How long do people wander around (I can wander about anywhere for a really long time!)? I'm a solo female traveler so safety is important. And I prefer lower cost of $75-$125 per night - 2 stars is perfectly fine with me. Thanks in advance for puzzling it out with me - always good to get a little group-think when planning by yourself.

Posted by
292 posts

Père Lachaise opens at 8 am, giving you a couple of hours to wander. I'd recommend Mama Shelter, which has a good location to visit Père Lachaise. Of course, it would mean a slightly more complicated trajectory to CDG. Another option would be to stay close to Gare de l'Est / Gare du Nord and a stop on line 2, so you would be able to get to the cemetery, perhaps leaving luggage behind, then return and be well-positioned to get the RER to CDG.

At the same time, this might also be one of those cases where it makes sense to spring for a taxi, so that you could stay close to the cemetery and not feel pressed. Père Lachaise is a place I've found myself a little turned around in before, and I could imagine starting to feel panicky if I also had a flight to make.

Posted by
16547 posts

Maureen, while I can't answer all of your questions, I did explore the cemetery by myself for some hours without feeling the least bit unsafe (I am a 5' 1" female). My DH threw in the towel after a couple of hours, and I spent another 3 or so before meeting up with him at nearby bar. It was a boon for the camera and for picking up some French history! If you haven't seen this recent report from a fave RS poster....

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/france-reviews/champs-elysees-and-pere-lachaise

My own special moment was an elderly Parisian caretaker of some cemetery cats showing me, unrequested, the burial spot of Marcel Marceau. I spoke almost no French and he spoke no English but his reverence for the famous mime transcended any translation barriers, as did my thanks. :O)

Posted by
46 posts

I did see that post Kathy (wasn't that excellent?), and that was one of the reasons I feel I MUST get there this time. When I studied in Strasbourg a long time ago, our professor took us to the concentration camp near there. He worked in the Resistance and had harrowing stories. I've always felt a need to go pay my respects and keep the memory alive at such locations. It was the extra push I needed to put this on my itinerary this time. But I also love the history of such places. Glad to confirm it felt safe. And now, Marcel Marceau's grave will be added to my list :-)

And yes Amy, I was figuring I'd leave the luggage while I was exploring the cemetery. I was puzzling whether it was best to stay close to an RER stop, or the cemetery. And you're right, I'd absolutely spring for the taxi if it meant getting to the airport in time. I believe leaving Paris proper 4 hours before the flight should allow enough travel time. I didn't know about Mama Shelter - will have to check it out. Staying close may be the simplest.

Posted by
14741 posts

I explored on my own on a recent morning but it wasn’t that early. There are security people at the gates. There were quite a few people about but it was a Sunday. I took my time and spent about 2-2.5 hour there until I was tired.

Do download Rick’s audio tour and print out the map to take with you. There is also a map from the Paris Cemetery commission (or whatever it’s called). I am traveling right now but I’ll add a link to that map when I get back home. (Probably will be able to think by Monday or Tuesday, lol!!)

Rick’s map was more accurate on grave location surprisingly. I tried to find a couple listed on the official map and no go. It did have better representation of the streets than Rick’s so that’s why you need both. DO start at the “top” which is the gate that is closest from the Gambetta Metro stop (Rick’s suggestion). Then you work your way downhill to the main gate.

IF it happens to be raining hard that day I might find something else to do.

The Montparnasse Cemetery is also interesting although smaller. It has the grave of French President Jacques Chirac plus other notables. It’s also flat, lol!!

Posted by
10205 posts

I think Mama Shelter is a good idea. Another positive element to this plan is that from Mama Shelter, you are better placed to get to CDG quickly by taxi than from practically anywhere else in Paris, because you are starting from the NE corner of the city.

Depending on traffic that morning (and possible surge pricing) , it could also be a time to consider taking Uber to the airport instead of a taxi. Usually the fixed-rate fare of 50€ (plus 7€) works in a traveler’s favor — but leaving from the 20th, you may be able to Uber for quite a bit less. It’s worth considering at least.

(I used to live in this neighborhood, and live not far from there still. In fact you’ll walk by our vet walking from Mama Shelter to the side entrance of Père Lachaise, which in fact is the part of the cemetery where most of the Holocaust-era graves are, as well as the memorial to those killed when the government mopped up the Paris Commune in 1871.)

Posted by
80 posts

The hotel d'horloge is a ten minute walk from the main entrance and is in your price range. It's a good value for money, better than most of what is around. Check it out, studio is probably what you would want not the room with shared bathroom (which is 15 euros less than studio with private bathroom). It's interesting, it's former fire station.

You can get from the metro to gare du nord, where the rer line to the airport is, in under 20 minutes by metro.

It's safe but of course use normal precautions as you will be there at opening when there are less people around.

Posted by
16547 posts

There is also a map from the Paris Cemetery commission (or whatever
it’s called). I am traveling right now but I’ll add a link to that map
when I get back home

Mind if I help you out, Pam? Here is the map I think you're talking about:
https://www.api-site.paris.fr/paris/public/2018%2F9%2FCPLMapEN.pdf

Marcel Marceau is in section 21. I see he's not marked on the map yet. If you're a jazz fan, Stephane Grappelli is buried in the columbarium, Division 87, urn 417.

A very useful website (the one Pam was talking about) for maps, hours and whatnot for the cemeteries of Paris:
http://www.pariscemeteries.com

Oh, and we enjoyed a ramble through Montmartre cemetery as well, and didn't feel unsafe there either.

Posted by
46 posts

Thanks Kim, 75018, and Kathy! Excellent resource of the maps, appreciate that very much. And you're right, convenient to be on that end of town already. Looked at Mama Shelter and L'Horloge. Price similar but L'Horloge didn't have a bunch of reviews about noise, so chose there. Looked interesting plus it has a kitchenette. By that point in my trip, I'll probably want to just do takeout and relax. I'll go early to Pere Lachaise and will be close enough to be able not check out until after, allowing me to freshen up before a long flight out of Europe. I agree about, always be aware of surroundings - day or night. Doubly important when no one else with you to add another set of eyes.

Posted by
10205 posts

Wonderful that you got the Horloge recommendation and that you have a good plan!

Posted by
14741 posts

Kathy, yes!! Thanks so much for linking that map. They have big signboards of it at the entrance but TBH even if you take a picture it’s better to have the printed out version.