Paris to Burgundy for a weekend

I used to live for a time a few miles south of Chalon-sur-Saone and, we would spend most weekends in Paris so I know that this is an easy and fun weekend trip. Unlike, Rick, I don't really love Beaune but many do and it is a fine choice. For me, I would stay in Dijon. Train connections are probably better and it is bit more lively and interesting that Beaune to me. I love the wines of Burgundy (in fact, that is how I ended up in Chalon given the choice of places to live in France) but Beaune is sort of a one-note (with that note being) wine town. I don't know your hotel budget but I am a big fan of the MGallery property in Dijon, Grand Hotel La Cloche. To get around for wine tasting Bourgogne, you can arrange the appointments at the wineries yourself and drive from place to place in a rental car being sure to have a designated driver, go to the various caveaux in towns -- for example, one of our favorite was Caveau Puligny-Montrachet where we we helped by the most adorable couple -- again with a designated driver or you can take one the wine tours that are available. Because we were there for so long and could make our own appointments and spread our trips to wineries out, I have not taken such a tour. They are not cheap. I looked into and liked what I say and read about Colette Barbier for a one-day wine tour but I can't give a personal recommendation. Dijon has a great Saturday market. If you stay in Beaune, you may want to see if the weather permits getting some bikes and cycling to some of the wineries.

You can book an all day Burgundy wine tour with driver/guide and they will pick you up at the appointed time a short walk from Dijon station. Small groups (6 to 8) in a van. Well worth it.

I like Beaune but without a car it wouldn't be a good choice. I suggest Dijon for good train connections and many choices of places to stay, eat, and drink wine.

The Hospices de Beaune is a great place to visit if your interests include historic sights as well as food and wine, and there are frequent easy train connections to Dijon. Also an excellent art museum in Dijon. But you may not want to take the time for these.

Cycling is absolutely an acceptable substitute for a car in Burgundy in October. Arguably the superior choice! There is no better way to get a feel for the land.

Beaune is probably the best base for a wine-oriented visit. There are some great tasting opportunities in town, wonderful food, and it is convenient to Paris by train (see note below). It also has great cycling options through vineyards and tasting opportunities. The bike rental shop will help you design an itinerary involving day loops out of Beaune, geared to every level of cycling comfort. Don't miss the tasting lunch in Aloxe-Cortone.

As for transit connections to and from Paris, they are frequent. I do not know where you are getting the only-one-train-at-3-pm thing. Take the TGV to Dijon and transfer to the local to Beaune; reverse the process to come back to Paris. Eat the cost, it's worth it.

I spent a week in Burgundy on a bike. It was grand even though it was April and rainy. You'll have much better weather in October. Don't stint, don't choke, go for it!

In October you will be better off visiting the vineyards on an organized tour due to the grape harvest and wine making process. This is the busiest time of the year for vineyards, so small family operations may not have the time for you. A good tour would get everything set up in advance.

Also, I agree that Dijon offers a lot more historically. I've been to Beaune several times, but the last time I had a tour given by a friend born and raised in Beaune, who works for city hall. All told, including out of the way secret places she knew (and a tourist wouldn't) and visiting the historical must-sees, it took two hours to see it all. It's a good place for down time, eating, drinking, if that's what you want.

nsb4580 did not say that there are no trains after 3 PM -- just that they are "very expensive."

@ nsb4580, I just looked at the fares for a Sunday, October 11th and the 3 PM train is the most expensive one and takes the most time. You have already missed the cheapest tickets because tickets go on sale 90 days before the travel date and the cheapest tickets sell out first.

Yeah, I'm seeing to Dijon, 44 EUR for 2 early Friday, 10/7, and 84 EUR returning late Sunday, 10/9. Not a super bargain, but it is late in the game.

Another vote for Dijon from me.
I rented bikes in Dijon and cycled to Beaune, had lunch, then stopped for wine tasting along the way back. Late September. A terrific day. It's an easy ride, some segments with traffic in town (in general drivers over here are much more accommodating and safer around cyclists than in the US). Lots of little roads thru the vineyards where the only traffic you'll see is the occasional tractor.

Copy-pasting something I posted to a similar question earlier this summer with some specifics. That was a longer trip, but might be helpful. I will add that I stayed at the Jacquemot in Dijon, and would not recommend it. Had a rooftop access, top floor room (requested a quiet room) and it had a terrible sewer gas issue that was quite unpleasant. Other parts of the hotel might be fine. I don't know. The bike rental outfit we used was close to this hotel. Good equipment, very nice people.

In Dijon, the tour of the Tour is very good. Operated by the tourism office. There are scheduled times each day and you should get a ticket ahead. Good meals here at Hotel de la Porte Guilliame (totally old school. Order snails.) Also L'escargot, which doesn't look like much but the kitchen knows what it is about (a swoon-worthy Tarte l'Epoisses) .

We had an outstanding tasting experience at Ch de la Tour (right next door to the Clos De Vougeot museum). We rented bikes and cycled from Dijon to Beaune and back, tasting our way north.

I prefer Dijon to Beaune as a town, although the Hotel Dieu is a world class site. Ma Cuisine is well known by Brits and Americans--it really is good and they had a fairly epic wine list. We also enjoyed Le P'tit Paradis.

Mercurey has a cave operation in the center of town now that is very well stocked and staffed. A good place to taste and buy bottles from small producers. In many places it's really hit or miss to find anyone who can serve shoppers at the wineries--the operations are mostly quite small and they are busy farming.

In Meursault, Domaine Javillier runs a cozy tasting space for their excellent wines.

Saint-Aubin also has a communal tasting room we visited.

Flavigny is a terrific stop. If you go that way, try to time it to have lunch at La Grange--cafeteria style, delicious food. And you sit at long tables with all the locals. It's a hoot. Very pretty village. I love Avallon too. Excellent Saturday market there. Had an outstanding dinner at Hotel de Moulin Ruats just outside town.

Thank you all so very much for all of this extremely thoughtful insight! We have opted to stay in Beaune, although a couple of you really convinced me that Dijon might have been the better choice. We talked it over and she likes the idea of biking around the small town and exploring food and wine there. Again, I am very grateful for all of your input!
Noah