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Paris to Bergerac

Hi,

Next month we (two adults and a 13-yr-old) fly from the US to Paris and land at 8:15. I'm renting a car and driving to the Bergerac area. We'll be tired from the flight, of course, and don't want to push it on the 7 hr or so drive. So I'd either like to stop at a place or two along the way or maybe even for the night before continuing the next day.

We just had a 3-week trip to France a few months ago. We visited Alsace, Lyon, and Provence. So I'm looking forward to new scenery en route to our first trip to the Dordogne.

I'd appreciate your wisdom as far as route suggestions...not sure if I should just stop in Tours for a bit or if we should try to spend that driving day in Loire Valley or...

Thanks for your help!

Posted by
2389 posts

I never recommend driving after an overnight flight from the US. Definitely don't go past Tours that first day. Spend the night there or somewhere not far along your route.

Posted by
3081 posts

CDG Airport is north of Paris; to go south to Bergerac, you'll have to go through the Paris area, its traffic, and its traffic jams. So, your estimate of 7 hours of driving to Bergerac is already very optimistic for a Parisian who drives around the region every day and isn't jetlagged after an overnight flight.

If you can reach Tours in less than 4 hours, it will be quite an achievement.

Posted by
448 posts

I completely agree with JoLui's comments. Are you open to adjusting a bit? You could take the train from CDG to Bergerac on arrival, then rent a car the next day in Bergerac. The train would be about 3.5 to 5 hours with a change in Bordeaux. It is a much more relaxing way to get from CDG to Bergerac especially after a trans atlantic flight. Something to consider if you are open to it...

Posted by
578 posts

We flew through Paris and on to Bordeaux and spent a couple days there to acclimate before heading on to Bergerac by train.

You could certainly fly through CDG and on to Bordeaux or take a TGV from Paris/Montparnasse or perhaps even CDG to Bordeaux, then rent a car in Bordeaux after you get one or more good night’s sleep there.

The Bordeaux airport is served by a now 2 year old tram line that gets you into the heart of the city in 25 minutes for about €3 or €4 each.

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks everyone. We arrive at CDG at 8:15 and the first train isn't until 11:15. That's a couple of hours I'm wasting when I could be driving, especially since I'll need a car anyway in Dordogne. That's why the plan is to just get a car when we land (we won't have checked baggage) and hit the road. It'll be a Saturday, so hopefully congestion will be manageable.

I'll get a car at CDG and figure out a place to stop on the way down that we haven't seen. I think I'll take the dark blue route on this map. That way I could take my daughter to visit Lascaux on the morning of the second day as we head to Bergerac?

Posted by
2389 posts

Tim,

Landing at 8:15 doesn't mean you are exiting the airport at 8:30. We have rented cars at CDG and on average it takes 45-90 minutes to get going (getting to car rental area...it may be close by, it may not; doing the paperwork...there may be a line and a wait, there may not; retrieving the car...it may be close by, it may not; checking it out for dings, etc and making sure the gps system is familiar to you may take five minutes, or maybe more). I don't imagine you would be leaving the airport that much before the train does, unless you are one of the first to disembark and have a short line at immigration and everything goes perfectly. And, of course, this is assuming you don't have to retrieve bags. Our last time we picked up a rental car at CDG it took us almost and hour just waiting in line to get to someone to process our paperwork and give us the keys.

Your estimate of two hours wasted is, in my opinion, a bit unrealistic. I hope you are right, but don't be disappointed if things take a bit longer. (Oh yes, if you find someplace closer than Tours to stop that first night, I recommend doing so.

Best of luck!

Posted by
2389 posts

Tim, I see by your map you go through Chartres and Orleans. If you do drive on arrival day, I would stop at Chartres overnight (fantastic cathedral and a light show on the buildings at night). That is about 1 1/2 hours from CDG. Orleans is just over 2 hours. It is another medieval city with a beautiful cathedral and is along the Loire River. Either one will give you a lovely evening and a chance to get over any possible jet lag and distracted driving. Go to the Dordogne the next day. If you drive to Lascaux IV from Chartres it will take 5 hours; from Orleans, 4 hours. To go from either place to Bergerac, add about an hour to that. Don't try to go to Lascaux on day 2. You will have a better time when acclimated to French time (I speak from experience).

Don't feel you need to see Lascaux on the way to Bergerac because you don't want to be doubling back if you went to Bergerac first. The relatively short drives around the area for most popular sights make it easy to combine 2 activities in one day with a nice lunch in between, and still get back to Bergerac at a decent time. Plus, you can drive through some of "Les Plus Beaux Villages de France" on your routes. We planned our days to see and do things that were near to each other, or to do so in a loop drive.

There are the two main castles, Beynac and Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, either one of which could be explored in an afternoon after seeing Lascaux IV. We saw both and are glad we did. Also, you could visit another, different prehistoric cave another day, combined with a visit to some of the magnificent gardens (like Marqueyssac), or go to one of the local outdoor markets found all over the area, or make a day of a kayak trip on the Dordogne (plan on four hours) with a (short) climb to the fort built into the rock at La Roque Gageac afterward (12th century, I believe). The relatively short drives around the area make it easy to combine 2 activities in one day with time for a leisurely lunch as well. And there are dozens of things to do. I wish we had had more than ten days there as we missed several things we wanted. We were a bit further east than you will be, but we still missed the whole eastern end of the area. (There are many, many prehistoric caves to visit. Try to go to one of the ones that are not reproductions also, like Font de Gaum).

Be aware that you probably will need to reserve a time for Lascaux IV or Lascaux II, or any other caves, so I wouldn't plan on going there until day 3, after spending your second night in France in Bergerac. The Dordogne region is, as you noted, car dependent for the tourist (and locals). But all the major sights are fairly short drives. Bergerac is a bit of an outlier for most things tourists choose, but an hours drive to Lascaux could be in the morning, followed by a drive to have lunch at any of the other villages or towns on your way back to your lodgings or to another activity/sight.

Whatever you do, have fun! (p.s. How long do you have in the Dordogne?)

Posted by
448 posts

It sounds like you are set on driving from CDG, which I get. We Americans love our road trips. But I do agree with Judy that you will probably use the 2+ hours between arrival time and train time just getting to your car. We take the route from SEA to CDG frequently. We have carry-on bags, priority and EU access, and it usually takes us 1.5 to 2hrs to get all the way through customs. If you do not have priority access or EU passport, the lines through passport control are long at CDG. Additionally, we've landed but then had to wait on tarmac for a gate, which eats up about 15-30mins. I don't write this to try to convince you to use the train, rather to give you a realistic expectation of navigating CDG. But, hey...maybe you'll get lucky and breeze through. Doesn't happen often but always a possibility. I hope you enjoy your trip! Bergerac is a great little town as is the whole area around.

Posted by
7 posts

Judy,

Thanks so much for your generous feedback. You’ve given me a lot to consider and I’ll rethink the CDG/car “thing.” Part of my reasoning is that I’ll need car anyway, but the other part is just stubborn Americanness that I should get there and get going. And not meander and enjoy the trip. Which would defeat the purpose, wouldn’t it ;-) So I’ll carefully read through all you’ve written. Thanks again so much for sharing your wisdom.

Posted by
7 posts

Kimberly,

Yes, we do love our road trips. But seeing as I’ll be around Bergerac (Eymet, actually) for two weeks, I’ll have plenty of time to hit the road. So maybe a train day one and an overnight in Bordeaux is a way to go. After all, I’ve never been there either!

Posted by
3081 posts

It'll be Saturday, so hopefully congestion will be manageable.

Hope for you it won't be Saturday, August 23rd or 30th, On these Saturdays expect some of the heaviest traffic of the year. Luckily for you, it will be mainly in the opposite direction (south to north).

Watch out for speed cameras along the route.
On the A20, there are section speed cameras that calculate your average speed between two points (the trap is that these are in areas where the maximum speed limit is lower than the usual 130 km/h).

Posted by
448 posts

Eymet is adorable! You'll love the market there. LOTS of English spoken in this town so if you don't speak French, you will have no problem there. Make sure you take a visit to Issigeac market on Sunday morning. It is the quintessential image of a French market town (the rest of the week it's pretty quiet there.)

To JoLui's point about speed cameras...there are many on your route. There are also some new ones put in around the greater Bordeaux area and possibly in to Dordogne/Lot-et-Garonne area that track speed, seatbelt usage and cell phone usage.

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks Kimberly and JoLui. No, it’s late September when we come in. We’ll be staying in Eymet the whole time as we’re considering a move there next year. And thanks for the heads up on the speed cameras! Good thing I put cruise control on the speed limit and don’t use my phone!

Posted by
3081 posts

You'll need to start adopting local habits if you plan to move here next year. :)

So, once you've settled in Eymet, visit the "Domaine du bout du monde" vineyard. It's a wine-loving couple settled in the region 10 years ago, they bought a small vineyard. They offer tastings (free) and are usually open every day.

It's on the road to Bergerac, near the "Château de Bridoire", a 15-minute drive from Eymet (the château can also be visited)

The wines are organic.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/c8xK299G3XqskqzCA

Street View:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/HHMWqi9w4mFw1zq76

If you like sparkling wine, they have "Bubulle," a natural wine without any yeast, sugar, and of course no added sulfites.

As you may have guessed, Bubulle is a kind of cute name for Bubbles.

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks, JoLui…will do. I’ve never been known to pass a free tasting…I’m sure we’ll stock up :-)

Posted by
2389 posts

Re the train to Bordeaux. The TGV from Paris Gare Montparnasse takes less than 3 hours. There is also one from CDG that doesn't take much more time, but has fewer departure times. That could work well for you and give you some down time after your flight. Staying overnight at Bordeaux that first night is a good idea. Bordeaux is lovely and your daughter would enjoy seeing the Bassins Des Lumieres show there that first evening. Our grandkids loved it. And you would be more rested for your drive to Bergerac the next day (day2). If you decide to stay two nights there (one full day) the city has a lovely cathedral and art museum, plus the Cite Du Vin (a great museum/learning experience that you can spend 3-4 hours at) but might be boring for your daughter. The tram system in the city is great also and gets you through the traffic that snarls cars and buses. You can pick up your rental car at the train station or the airport. If you stay overnight in town there is a tram to the airport if that is where you decide to pick up your car.

On our last trip to France we had two different car rental times (due to our route and time spent with family there), but one leg was a train from Marseille to Bordeaux, one night there, car pickup next day and the drive to our gite in the Dordogne, ten days/nights there, then drive back to Bordeaux, return the car at the train station, stay overnight again for a little more time in Bordeaux, then TGV to Paris. We stayed overnight and next day flew home. It worked out well for us.

You might also note that many of the vineyards in France require reservations (unlike most of those in the US, esp. California). Just some fun research for you. I googled vineyards in that area and checked them out, then contacted some of them about tastings and tours. Many have limited days and times, but you have lots to choose from., stretching from Bordeaux/St. Emilion through the whole region. Be careful about tasting and driving. The blood alcohol limit is lower in France than in the US. They are also very strict about it and don't have any wiggle room. Ditto, no wiggle room regarding speed limits.

Posted by
1963 posts

Judy makes many excellent points. I'll add that there are numerous wine retailers in Saint-Emilion in which tastings are possible, which is the approach I'd recommend for tasting right-bank Bordeaux wines. The village is reached easily by train from Bordeaux.

In Bordeaux proper, several châteaux are reachable by public transit; they're in the Pessac-Leognan appellation. Château Pape Clement was my personal favorite, but those willing to part with many euros can think about Château Haut Brion. And the wine villages of Margaux and Pauillac are easily reached by train from Bordeaux, though you might need to walk a bit to get to the châteaux themselves. Reservations are definitely recommended, though we had very good success just walking in to many châteaux, including Lascombes and Desmirail in Margaux and Grand-Puy-Ducasse in Pauillac. If you're in Pauillac you should also visit La Rose Pauillac, not a château but instead a growers' cooperative that produces very good wines. You likely won't see their products in the US.

Finally, in Bergerac (also an easy train ride from Bordeaux) one can taste wines at the tourist information center. Most days there will be a winemaker from the region with a selection of their products to taste. There's also a wine bar with a selection of local wines; if you go, don't miss trying the outstanding sweet white wine called Monbazillac. I personally like it better than Sauternes, because it has good acidity to help offset the sweetness. Delicious stuff.

Posted by
578 posts

If you wish to consider a partial or full day (two nights) in Bordeaux, before you strike out for Bergerac, there are interesting sites there, including the Musee d’Acquitane, Musee du Vin et Negoce, Cite du Vin and lovely city gates. At the Musee du Vin et Negoce, we learned quite a bit about France’s and wine’s role in the “circle trade,” i.e., the slave trade.

We also enjoyed a brief wine tasting “class”
In the city, learning about all those descriptions of tastes and getting a bit more of an appreciation of mineral, melon, pineapple, apple, cherry, plum, licorice and tobacco as descriptors, as well as learning about the five distinct regions or terroirs that we lump together as Bordeaux.. Don’t know how a class like that would work for your 13 year old, though.

Rick Steves France Guidebook (and website) entirely ignores Bordeaux. Lonely Planet has a pocket guidebook to Bordeaux that we found useful. (Perhaps the fact that RS ignores Bordeaux is also useful.)

BTW, your daughter might enjoy learning a bit about Ailenor of Aquitaine, one of the most remarkable women of the Millenium. She was raised in the medieval court of Aquitaine (in Poitiers), daughter of the Duke, literate, musical, became Duchess (and ruler) of Aquitaine, and later married Louis VII. She went on a Crusade with him where she outshone him as a military leader. After they returned to France, she got the Pope to anull their marriage, so she could marry Henry II of England. Her children included Richard the Lionhearted and King John. She is buried in the Loire Valley (sorta between Chinon and Saumur) at Fontvraud Abbey, alongside Henry II and Richard Coeur de Lion.

A final comment, while Bergerac has a pretty, touristy district, I was not particularly captivated by that town. The Dordogne region east of there was, as the French say, formidable! (Tremendous). Consider including a visit to Chateau des Milandes, home to a remarkable woman of the 20th Century, Josephine Baker along your journey.

Bonnes Vacances.

Posted by
3081 posts

Note that Eymet is in the extreme southwest of the administrative Dordogne (almost outside the Dordogne and just as close to the Lot Valley). The landscapes as soon as you go west ( toward Bordeaux) are no longer typical of the Dordogne.

On the other hand, it is a village full of British expats (at least those who were able to stay after Brexit). It's called the "Little England" of Dordogneshire. You'll find grocery stores with typically English ingredients and maybe a few places to eat fish & chips.

My map may still be useful, however:

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1OdPOg8AgsNn0Jlv1cNHkujaWv9p_Jpc&usp=sharing

Posted by
7 posts

Everyone…thank you so much. So much wisdom, excellent advice, and resources. You’ve given me a lot to consider, but I’ve already decided to take your advice on the train from Paris to Bordeaux. I’ll read your comments carefully, I’ll stay safe, and I appreciate that map…it is very helpful. And Ailenor of Aquitaine Sounds really interesting…thanks for that history!

Posted by
7723 posts

Good to hear that you are willing to reconsider your "stubborn Americanness". But you should not look at the time between your flight arrival and the train departure as wasted time when you could be driving. As mentioned, picking up a car takes time. And while you'll probably get a bit of a head start if driving, that doesn't mean an earlier arrival. French motorways allow you drive up to 130 km/h in good conditions, which is very slow compared to the 320 km/h train to Bordeaux.

Posted by
2389 posts

Tim,
I am glad Fred mentioned Eleanor of Acquitaine. She is one of the women in history I most admire. You and your daughter may enjoy watching the excellent 1968 film "The Lion in Winter", with Katherine Hepburn, Peter O'Toole and Anthony Hopkins, before you leave. It doesn't cover all the details of her life, but Hepburn does convey the strength of purpose and personality and intelligence of this fascinating woman. Alas, when in Bordeaux I didn't have time to visit the Musee d' Acquitaine, so I must return to that fine city.

One other point...since you will be kind of on the fringe of the Dordogne region, I would just plan on visiting the sights and villages there each day as an all-day adventure. Plan on something in the morning, lunch in a lovely village, and something in the afternoon, then back to Bergerac/Eymet for the evening. You will spend some extra time in the car each day, but what you will see and do in the Dordogne and Vezere valleys will be worth it. And if you kayak on the river, do that in the afternoon as you will be somewhat wet (at least your feet and shoes will be) and probably not ready for exploring, say, a castle.
Amusez-vous bien!