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Paris - three questions for later this week

Many time visiter to Paris, but looking for some new things to try. We were going to have lunch at the Marché des Enfants Rouges but….it burned down! So, three things for the group:

  • Coffee at Place des Vosges: is that possible? Just show up and cross one’s fingers?
  • Canal St. Martin: last year I wanted to stroll around this “happening” area and, well, the area I was in wasn’t very happening at all. So obviously I need recommendations for a stretch of the canal that will have some lively shops or stops.
  • Mass at Notre Dame. Are the lines ridiculously long? If I queue up will I get in?

Merci pour votre aide!

Posted by
781 posts

Hi Joni,
I can't answer your first two questions but I can say that last November when we were at Notre Dame, the line for mass was short and we could've easily sat for mass. The line to walk through Notre Dame was much longer and crowded but still moved quickly.

Posted by
1644 posts

People arent clammmering to be at religious services at Notre-Dame. You'll have positively no issue getting a seat.

There's a Carette on Place des Vosges for one of the city's most famous hot chocolates or coffee. Also a few decent places to eat. That said, you will feel less like you're at Place des Vosges because you won't really see it well.

Posted by
177 posts

If I'm being honest, after myriad stays in Paris we'd rather congregate with friends in the far suburbs these days for a multitude of reasons...the sole exception--thus far--being strolling the 6e...Bl St. G and along the R.G.

Posted by
63 posts

Regarding Place des Vosges, it sounds like there is no actual place to sit within la place and have a coffee, perhaps I can get some takeaway coffee and find a park bench within the place? No one has replied about the canal. C’mon, folks! Somebody always has an opinion!

Posted by
3752 posts

There is a separate entrance for those attending mass. If it hasn't changed, I believe it is to the left of the cathedral entrance line and is quite a short line. It is appreciated when visitors don't get up to leave in the middle of mass, as it is not a tourist attraction. I don't think this is a problem now but it has happened in the past. (Here, and especially at St. Peter's in Rome.)

Posted by
1673 posts

I bought into the hype about Canal Saint-Martin a few years ago and was very underwhelmed. My feeling is that someone decided to try to promote the area to tourists for the dollars, far above the actual desirability of this area. There was tons of trash, a dirty canal and some locals just hanging around the canal. IMHO, there are many, much better places to visit in Paris.

Posted by
4321 posts

No one has replied about the canal. Come on, folks! Someone always has
an opinion!

Regarding the Canal Saint-Martin, I’m not quite sure what kind of "happening" atmosphere you were expecting, or what time of year you visited. It was packed this summer because part of the canal was opened for swimming due to the heatwaves.

Having lived there for a few years, my opinion is that the pleasant "Parisian" stretch is mostly around the old Hôtel du Nord (from the classic movie of the same name), there are a few shops and bars in that area, as well as a movable bridge and locks that allow pleasure boats and tour boats to navigate the canal. It’s basically this area here:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/3nhkBDHjRDYLTKAX9

The section further north is less picturesque and partly made up of modern buildings. You have to go even further north, to the junction with the Canal de l'Ourcq, to ​​find some walkable stretches along the banks in a recently redeveloped area, though that’s not really my scene anymore.

Posted by
2234 posts

Agree with PharmerPhil about Canal St. Martin.

Posted by
1476 posts

“No one has replied about the canal. Come on, folks! Someone always has
an opinion!”

I lol’d. And so have to offer mine up. Canal St. Martin is neat, and I’ve found myself there anytime I’m in the area. Like, if you’re at Place des Vosges or Republique it’s an easy and natural enough place to end up. But I think you got a fair feel for it the first time around. It makes for a poor shopping area because you’re actually far from the shop side of the street and have to cross over to see what’s on the other side. Further north ends up being more of a scene with locals hanging out having beers canal side, but it’s not quaint and it gets less quaint the further north you get. I’d maneuver the group somewhere else.

Posted by
63 posts

I am loving these response! I think that instead of the canal, I will focus on the Coulée Verte, and perhaps the viaduct des arts on the ground level. Have not walked the coulée but have enjoyed the greenway in NYC. We have a vacation home .5 km from the Canal du Midi so it isn’t like I haven’t seen a canal in France before. I am thinking we will go to the coulée on the weekend, as I believe student protests could be near Place de la Bastille during the week. What do you all think?

Posted by
4321 posts

I’m thinking we’ll go to the Coulée this weekend, since I believe
there might be student protests near Place de la Bastille during the
week. What do you all think?

Next Saturday, October 17, is set to be a "major" day of demonstrations across France, involving the Yellow Vests movement as well as high school students. As of now, no specific locations have been officially announced.

While there are maps and lists of gatherings, demonstrations and disruptions circulating online and on social media, allegedly 414 demonstrations across France so far, there is no reliable information.

Posted by
91 posts

To-go coffee is becoming more of a thing in Paris, whereas before this was more an American thing. I don't have a recommendation for the area around Place de Vosges where to-go is available, but probably on the Blvd. Beaumarchais, perhaps the cafe at the Merci store or else Maison Landemaine--then you can find a bench in the park to sit on. The square is one of my favorite places in Paris. Otherwise the cafes previously mentioned are good.
The Canal Saint-Martin is good along the canal but a bit dodgy in places away from the canal bank. Chez Prune is popular. If I remember correctly Blvd de Magenta is a good shopping street for that area.
We visited Notre Dame last November and the entry lines moved briskly. We were outside for maybe fifteen minutes.

Posted by
44 posts

Regarding Place des Vosges, it sounds like there is no actual place to sit within la place and have a coffee, perhaps I can get some takeaway coffee and find a park bench within the place?

We just sat/lay on the grass by the fountain at Place des Vosges with our refreshments. It was one of the few parks where one can sit on the grass!

Posted by
9827 posts

There are benches all around the edge of the Place des Vosges and there are several cafes on the inner ring under the cloister like overhang. Take out coffee is not as much a thing in Paris as the US although there are quite a few places that offer it -- you could probably get take out on one of the streets that lead into the square and sit on one of the many benches.

We have met friends for apero along the canal where cafes will carry out snacks and drinks to tables along the canal -- but I have never found it happening if you aren't part of a party.

Posted by
566 posts

This where you want to go for coffee. You may even want to try their incredible hot chocolate. Have fun.

https://paris-carette.fr/

Check the mass schedule at Notre Dame and arrive ahead of time and you won’t have an issue. Just ask one of the security people where to go and they’ll let you in.

I was in Canal St Martin area last year. I wasn’t that impressed either. There are so many great neighborhoods, it all depends on what you’re into. Consider taking a food tour at one of the other markets like Bastille or Aligre, Cool stuff around both these areas, but my idea of cool may not be your definition of cool.