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Paris, the 2nd time around: transfer and itinerary suggestions please?

I remember joining this forum in 2006 and getting helpful advice on itinerary; I wanted to do it all in 10 days! Well, 9 years later we revisit this city for 5 nights this summer. This time, our must see agenda is very small: the only museum is Rodin. This leaves time for leisure and the hidden Paris. We will also do Giverny, that is something the past nine years I kicked myself for missing! FYI , arrival to Paris CDG is Thursday at 11, and departure is tuesday, leaving CDG at 3pm) My questions:
1-What is fastest way to get to the 16th with plane arriving at 11 am? We are willing to go over budget (taxi?) to get more time in city on arrival day. But could RER be faster due to traffic?
2-What day would you do Giverny? Fri, Sat, Sun, or Mon? Avoid the weekend? better on the weekend?
3-We will be doing a night bike tour/boat ride. Is that too much to add to the Giverny day?
4- planning on just walking, shopping, and eating our way through the down time, but any suggestions are welcome. Would love to relax/play in the parks and see outdoor performances.

Posted by
15582 posts

Based on my experience in April this year:
Giverny - take an early train to Vernon so you get to Giverny before they open. Buy train tickets in advance (I nearly missed my train waiting in line to purchase at the station). Get to the station 15 minutes or more before the train leaves. There were people sitting on the stairs and standing in the aisles on the train since there were a lot of travelers with suitcases (that took up seats) in addition to all the tourists. The best way to get from Vernon to Giverny is probably by renting bikes in Vernon. I opted to take the bus and it was slow. There were enough buses lined up to get everyone from the train to the Giverny parking lot (and a 10 minute walk to the house and gardens), but the process for buying tickets (sold by the driver) was incredibly time-consuming. Also the line for tickets to the site was slow because people didn't know the various options for combined tickets, so that had to be explained to each buyer who then had to decide. . . So it's a good idea to buy your tickets in advance too. It probably doesn't matter which day you visit. I went on a Monday and it was pretty crowded. Unless you are very much into horticulture, you won't need over an hour (maybe an hour and a half if you want a lot of photos) in the gardens, another hour for the house and gift shop. Then you can visit the local musuem in Giverny (if you got the combined ticket) and spend a little time exploring Vernon on your bikes before taking a train back to Paris. It's not going to be a full day, even if you stay for lunch. If you are Monet fans, get the combined ticket with the Marmottan Museum and do visit it, especially since you're close by in the 16th.

Rodin Museum is mostly closed. The main building is undergoing major renovations, so a few of the exhibits are in another much smaller building. The gardens are worth the visit though.

There were street musicians playing on the weekends. I spent a great 20 minutes or so listening to a classic jazz combo on the foot bridge between Ile St Louis and Ile de la Cite.

Posted by
33 posts

Thanks for the fantastic details on Giverny and Rodin. The first time there we did the major museums, Eiffel tour, seine cruise, Rue Cler, Versailles, Sacre Coeur, and Notre Dame....This time less major sights/ museums and more secondary/ relaxing itinerary. Like Canal St. Martin, flea market, etc. Also suggestions on fastest midday airport transfer greatly appreciated- fastest to 16th. Thanks!

Posted by
8047 posts

I'll bet you haven't been to St. Denis; this is the best often missed stop in Paris (well just over the border but on the Paris metro) You can see my snapshots here:

https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2010/10/26/confronting-mortality-at-st-denis/

We like to wander and find our own hidden treasures; we do it by going to the ends of metro lines and looking around, going to interesting churches away from the center and exploring the neighborhood, attending free concerts here and there and exploring the neighborhood. You can see some of those in the Paris section of the photo journal noted above.

And there are dozens of fabulous day trips to lesser known spots. I particularly loved Senlis and Crecy la Chapelle, but if you haven't already been to Fountainebleau, Vaux le Vicomte, or Chartre those are all great too.

Posted by
20074 posts

As for airport transfers, where in the 16th? On the far north end, a direct bus stops at Porte Maillot. Further south is more problematic by public transport, at least as far as by RER and Metro.

Posted by
15582 posts

Before going to St. Denis, check the current status. In April, they were doing major works, nearly half the facade was covered in scaffolding and a good bit of the the central nave was inaccessible.

As Sam said, it depends on where in the 16th. I'd ask your hotel. A taxi may save you enough time to make it worthwhile if have to change trains more than once since it would skirt the center of town (traffic can be slow at any time in Paris). If you do take the RER, avoid transferring at Chatelet-Les Halles. It's huge and you could end up having quite a long walk with one or two flights of stairs to boot.

Posted by
57 posts

I also plan to be in Paris this summer. Am putting together a list of downtime/relaxing activities.
Almost next to the Rodin is one of the U.N. Agencies (have to double check which one) but it used to be a large comfortable
premises with a "Mensa." I look for Mensas because they are usually part of the everyday life in a city. The Samartaine used to have one also, with a great view of Paris.
On my list are:
Cluny Museum and Grand Armee (both for history buffs)
Departement des Monuments Historiques – free walking tours (Get info at TI)
Jardins de Luxembourg (people watch, read a newspaper)
The 16eme has good picnicking and people + gardens. Very BCBG.
Grocery markets in the 5 & 6eme near the Cluny as well as just a good area to meander. Get off the Metro at "Odeon"
I save my hair and manicure for when I am abroad because it is always fun and interesting to see the customs.

Posted by
33 posts

Thanks for great info! Where do you get hair and mani? At what cost? As for airport transfer, I have just decided to take round trip shuttle to the apartment we rent. With the 3 of us, it seemed to make sense. It is in the south end of 16th. I absolutely love the train and metro, and we always travel light, but most trips are helped that first day by just getting to the destination. The night bike tour seems interesting, and my husband and teen will definitely enjoy that type of activity.

Posted by
57 posts

I usually travel solo.... but that I have found useful for airport logistics. 3 people is different and I do not know shuttle costs unless
provided by the hotel. What I normally do is to share a taxi or take the RER.

The hair and manicure is guided by either the hotel's suggestions or, since I am frequently teaching or taking classes, the professors have kindly escorted me to where they go. They also give me a "heads up" on what to expect. But you have to ask. I find sometimes it results in a local contact. Ask also re cost and tipping.

Another recreational thing I do is to frequent a café or bakery or greengrocer every day so I have another contact. They get to know you. I live in a huge city with many neighborhoods. I have learned and am sure you know as well how NOT - Anonymous you are. Again it is customs that are important. You will do fine. Rely on observation and asking questions.

Posted by
8047 posts

With 3 people a taxi is by far your best bet and unlikely to cost much if any more than a shuttle. I would never take a shuttle TO the airport where a no show is a disaster. If you do use it, book it an hour earlier than you would otherwise (e.g. 5 hours ahead rather than 4) so if they don't show you can hustle something else up or if they take an hour to collect other passengers you are not there late.

St. Denis is about the tombs -- if that section is open to tour then it doesn't matter what is happening in the Nave or on the Facade. Always a good idea to check websites though -- I just cancelled a trip to Berlin this fall when I learned the Pergamon is closed for renovation.

Posted by
7175 posts

My picks from Paris Museum Pass (if you have done Louvre and Orsay) ...

Tours de Notre Dame (walk up the towers to get up close and personal with the gargoyles)
Crypt Archeologique (dig site in front of Notre Dame)
Musee Nissim de Camondo (lavish city home with art and furnishing from early 20th century)
Musee Picasso (recently renovated)
Pompidou Centre (modern art collection) ...closes 9pm ex Tue
St Chapelle (amazing stained glass)
Conciergerie (where Marie Antoinette imprisoned)
Musee Rodin (famous bronzes in beautiful gardens)
Invalides (Napoleons tomb)
Orangerie (Monet's waterlillies)
Decorative Arts (furniture)
Mode & Textile Museum (fashion)
Arc de Triomphe (must see view from top)
Musee Cluny (museum of the middle ages)
Pantheon (dedicated to the greats of France)
Musee Delacroix (the artist’s former house + studio)
Les Egouts (the sewer tour) ...closed Thu, Fri
Musee Quai Branly (artifacts from Africa, Americas, Asia, Oceania) ...closes 9pm Thu, Fri, Sat

Posted by
11507 posts

I have done the Fat Tire night bike tour( actually have done all their tours.. and one in London.. over many years of visits though, not all at once.. lol ) and it IS a lot of fun.. definitely do it first or second day as it will give you some ideas of things to do and see.. and do pick the guides mind for ideas.. they have some great ones.
I will also say.. that out of all the bike tours I did.. the ones I enjoyed most were the ones to Giverny and the Night bike tour.. I really enjoyed the one to Giverny.. the picnic.. shopping for lunch.. etc.. and we had more then enough time to enjoy the gardens( plus we skipped the lines!) .

The Invalids Army Museum is a great one for teens.. my kids all enjoyed it , as did I .. its not an "art" museum .. so kids don't get bored.. and its air conditioned.. and well laid out.. and NEVER crowded.. huge pluses! If you add one museum to your itinerary that would be my push.

How old are your kids... my boys ( aged 13, and 14 at time of their visits) loved the Catacombs, my 11 yr old daughtger chose not to visit them ( we took all our kids on separate one on one visits so we could tailor each kids visit to their interests and abilities ( I have one special needs son) .

Taxi should run between 50-65 euros.. may be worth it to you to get door to door service.. shuttles sometimes have issues.