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Paris Suggestions, s'il vous plait

Bonjour,

We will be in Paris 3 nights, two days in late September.

We've been to Paris twice (2010 & 2023), but I've added this quick visit to the end of our month long trip this September (Mosel River and Black Forest in SW Germany; Alsace, Burgundy & Lyon in eastern France). My primary motivation to include Paris is to see the restored and refreshed Notre Dame, apres le feu. We will be staying in the 5th, between the Sorbonne and Rue Mouffetard. Wondering about your thoughts - and reasons - about where to spend time, this time. I am thinking about

  • Louvre (c. 3 hours on Monday; this would be a second visit. A chance to see Leonardo's St. Anne after its restoration would be nice.)
  • d'Orsay (c. 3 hours on Tuesday; this would be a second visit, plus we also saw the Paris 1874 Impressionist Moment exhibit from the d'Orsay at the National Gallery in D.C. this past September - so, maybe not?)
  • possible music recitals (Eglise St Germain des Pres Sunday eve or Notre Dame Tuesday. eve)?
  • possible Paris Walks tour, depending on schedule?
  • Jardin des Plantes?
  • Cluny?
  • Rodin? (Though we've certainly seen lots of Rodin sculptures ourdoors at Stanford on repeated trips to see our son in CA, as well as The Thinker at SF's Legion of Honor)
  • What about Maison Victor Hugo? Musee Jacquemart-Andre? Jazz clubs? Canal St. Martin? We've never done the Seine cruise.

What we've visited before, fyi/fwiw - to give some idea of some of what we've experienced/enjoyed

  • Louvre
  • d'Orsay
  • Centre Pompidou; Musee de l'Orangerie (twice, actually)
  • Passages Couvertes (well, four of them, anyway)
  • Wandering neighborhoods (Montmartre, Rue Mouffetard, Le Marais, 5th & 6th, 9th, 16th) and the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann; enjoying patisseries, boulangeries, bookshops and galleries; Luxembourg Gardens
  • Eiffel Tower; Arc de Triomphe
  • Churches: Notre Dame, St. Chapelle, Sacre Coeur - and better yet, Eglise St. Pierre de Montmartre just around back; St. Sulpice (mass and organ recital)
  • Pantheon
  • Museum of Art and History of Judaism; Carnavalet; Petit Palais (Special Exhibit); Museum at the Luxembourg Gardens (Special Ex,)
  • Maison Balzac
  • Prior stays were in Le Marais (VRBO apartment for a week) and the 6th (4 hotel nights initially, and then a 5th night after British Air cancelled our flight home)

I know smaller, intimate sights can be more enjoyable than the large ones. Then again, being able to wander among greatness has its attraction. J'espere apprendre de tous. Merci.

Posted by
101 posts

You've got a fantastic list! I vote for Maison Victor Hugo. During my most recent visit in December, I really enjoyed visiting this spot.

Posted by
15426 posts

Well, I love the Louvre so if you have the interest I would say yes. Do get your tickets well ahead of time so you can get your preferred time slot on your Monday.

Ditto Musee d'Orsay. I love the 5th floor.

Jardin des Plantes is always nice as well. If you enter at the corner of Rue Linne and Rue Cuvier, there is a very cool sculpture by Henri Jacquemart.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/lion-of-the-botanical-gardens

Check on the Cluny website to see if any of the galleries are closed. Last time I went, October 2024, more than half the museum was closed (not sure why? Maybe a staffing issue?). They did not charge the full rate and the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries were on view which was my main goal. No need to book ahead.

Rodin, always a good idea on a beautiful afternoon, lol!! No need to book ahead.

Musee Jacquemart-Andre - I have not been since they reopened from a renovation. I was going to slot it in last Fall but waited too late and they were sold out on the day that worked for me so check their ticketing website ahead of time to see how the timed entries are booking.

++ on seeing Notre Dame.

Posted by
1151 posts

Canal St Martin? I stayed in that general area once, and I was not a big fan of the neighborhood or the canal itself (it was not attractive, kind of filthy in fact)...not as interesting or inviting as the boosters and pictures suggest...not a place I wanted to spend much time...YMMV

We walked around Pere-Lachaise cemetery on a recent trip, really enjoyed it.

Posted by
2383 posts

I've been to many of the places you mentioned, and I'd put Cluny at the top of my list.

Posted by
1275 posts

We saw the Paris 1874 exhibit in Paris last spring. It was very nice, but then we headed up to the 5th floor which to me is the absolute best; so I say the d'Orsay is a must!

But, have you seen The Thinker in the Rodin garden with the Eiffel Tower behind it? The garden is lovely!

We arrived at St Suplice to hear the organ prior to Sunday morning mass. That's pretty amazing!

You've got a great list!!! ENJOY!

Posted by
1882 posts

fred, Well, you have already visited a lot of places, so if it were me I would try something new. That being said, I return to the Rodin Museum every time I am in Paris. The garden is a nice place to spend an hour an a half. I don't feel the interior of the house is worth a repeat. The sculptures never fail to impress, especially The Burgers of Calais.

I doubt if there will be any concerts at Notre Dame, but there probably will be some at other churches. The Palais Garnier is definitely worth going to, and maybe there will be a performance one of your evenings. It is beautiful, and the Chagall ceiling is joyful.

The Basilica St. Denis is where many of the French kings are interred. It is often ignored by tourists, but I finally got there in 2017 and am so glad I did. And if the Cluny is fully open, do go there. The medieval art and artifacts are abundant and impressive, plus the building and space contributes to its impressiveness.
.
The boat ride on the Seine only takes an hour. We prefer the Vedettes de Pont Neuf and get in line a bit early to get a seat on the top for the better view. It is narrated by a live person, not a recording, often in English as well as French of course. The price is very affordable. You can reserve a time online and get a small discount. We did that to be sure of being on the river when the Eiffel Tower lights went on. I wouldn't do a dinner cruise because you miss too much of the scenery while eating.

It sounds like you have all day Monday and Tuesday, plus Sunday evening. Is that correct? Check opening days and times for your sights. In one day you could visit the Rodin and the Cluny, then finish up with the vedette ride. The other day could include St. Denis in the morning, a Paris Walks tour, and the Opera. St. Denis would take an hour, the Opera 2 hours. I don't know about the walking tour, but you have time for the metro ride between locations and a nice lunch. (Rodin 1 1/2 hrs, Cluny 3-4 hrs. Still time to rest at a cafe and have a nice lunch also.)

Of course,you can switch things around. I have divided days by left bank (Mon.) and right bank (Tues.), but it is just a suggestion.
Happy travels!

Posted by
10691 posts

There are a lot of special concerts at Notre Dame this year, so absolutely try to fit one in !

Posted by
499 posts

Merci a tous.

Laurie, what did you like about Maison Victor Hugo? (My motive for asking: Will I enjoy it as much as I enjoyed Maison Balzac? Will my wife enjoy it more than she enjoyed Maison Balzac?)

Judy, good thought on right bank one day, left bank another. And with museum open/closed days, that works to combine Louvre & Jacquemart-Andre on Monday ... so long as we we can have time during the day for Notre Dame as well, one day or the other. And thanks for your comments about the vedettes. Jaquemart-Andre hit my radar thanks to a TR a few months back: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/thanksgiving-in-paris-more-trip-report

Kim & Judy ... Perhaps we are a little far out yet to see Notre Dame concerts or recitals into September on-line. I do see many Tuesday evening musical offerings there from now through August. https://billetterie-musiquesacree.mapado.com/en Does Notre Dame's music season end with the conclusion of this series end at the end of August, or will others be slated later, for September? Perhaps our choices for classical evenings in churches or chapels are limited to St Germain des Pres on Tuesday and St. Chapelle on Sunday. https://www.parisdiscoveryguide.com/paris-concert.html#september.

Judy, Your suggestion of the Opera is great ... I had thought of it a few months back and not seen anything, but that has certainly changed, with Aida and La Boheme both on the horizon as possibilities. https://www.operadeparis.fr/en (those tix are not yet on sale)

Thanks to Pam and KD for mentioning the 5th Floor at the d'Orsay. When we were there in 2010, the 5th floor was closed for renovation, with many of those works distributed elsewhere in the museum, while others were out on loan.

As to the Rodin Gardens and Museum, this is something that I wanted to see - and failed - twice before. But with so little time in Paris on this trip, I don't know that we will get there given these other potential visits (perhaps including the Cluny on Tuesday) in just 2 or 2-1/2 days.

Pam, thanks for your comments about the Jardin des Plantes. I am thinking we may walk from Gare de Lyon to our hotel through there; 2 km with small rolling suitcases on Sunday afternoon.

Jojo, thanks for throwing cold water on the canal. I am sure your knowlegeable comments have merit.

Posted by
575 posts

I totally enjoyed walking through Père-Lachaise cemetery, and it's at the top of my list for a repeat visit.

Posted by
15426 posts

Fred, my suggestion for the Orsay is after you go thru the ticket barriers and down the steps to the main hall, continue straight back not looking side to side, lol. As you near the back wall, veer to the left and continue to the hidden escalators that go directly to 5! Spend time on 5 then work your way back down thru the rest of the museum until you reach max saturation.

If you go on a Tuesday it will be very busy as the Louvre is closed. I recommend you go as early in the day as you can. If you are the first admission time, if you go to the escalators you will get to the 5th floor before many others and can view in relative peace!

I was last in Paris in 2022 for 5 nights (8th time for me and 2nd for wife) and we visited the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay and Luxembourg Garden. I got around the centre with Batau Bus (my fav way to get around in Paris) and walked everywhere else.

We found it very enjoyable because we had more time to take our time walking the neighborhoods, the seine and lounging in cafes. It was great!

Posted by
128 posts

My daughter and I recently went to Maison Victor Hugo. It's small so it won't take a lot of time from your day regardless, but we really liked the illustrations from Les Miserables (especially since we're reading it this school year).

Seine cruise at evening was really special, too.

Cluny had part of their museum closed off but the unicorn tapestries were open and we really enjoyed what we did see.

We enjoyed just sitting in Eglise St Germain des Pres and listening to the organist practice. They have WW1 and WW2 memorial, beautiful stained glass, and it was just a peaceful time.

Posted by
10691 posts

Take Pam's very good advice about how to approach your visit to the Orsay !

Posted by
101 posts

As pbscd said, Maison Victor Hugo is small, but my husband and I both found it interesting. We lingered in each room. We have both read The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, and I love the musical version of Les Misérables. Throughout the home, there are illustrations depicting scenes from these works and others. Also, neither of us knew much about Victor Hugo, so we learned a few things along the way. It was really cool seeing the furniture Hugo crafted himself.

I haven't been to Maison Balzac, so I can't compare experiences. At the Musée Rodin, there was a special exhibit about the creation of Rodin's statue of Balzac in a dressing gown. Unfortunately, I think that this exhibit is no longer on display.

Posted by
499 posts

Thank you Laurie and pbscd,

At Maison Balzac, I quite enjoyed the original wood blocks for the illustrations of characters in La Comedie Humaine. Hundreds of them. Plus a lovely view to the Tour Eiffel. 50 years ago, Rodin’s statue of Balzac gave me an impression of the man that is very different than the impression I developed after reading one of his novels, Pere Goriot.

Thanks for mentioning Hugo’s Notre Dame de Paris / Hunchback of Notre Dame which is on my reading list. Perhaps we’ll watch Les Miz again, too.

So nice to marry reading with visiting places, isn’t it? That allows us to be better travelers in time as well as space.

Posted by
1920 posts

I definitely recommend visiting the Cluny. The Lady and Unicorn tapestries are beautiful! This museum was not crowded at all when we visited in 2012. Not sure if that has changed. It was a very pleasant and very quiet experience.

Posted by
128 posts

My daughter and I went to Cluny right before opening time Sunday morning (first Sunday, free admission) and it was not crowded. (then walked right to Saint Sulpice from there)

Posted by
3761 posts

Go up to the top of the Tour Montparnasse for amazing 360 degree views over the whole city.
Be sure to pick a clear day so you can see for miles!
There’s a cafe/bar at the top.

Posted by
1611 posts

Fred, you don't seem to have yet visited Le Musee de l'Armée in Les Invalides. I recommend it.

Posted by
78 posts

I just returned from Paris and couldn't get into Notre Dame. It was totally sold out EVERY DAY. The crowd outside was massive. St. Chapelle was sold out. Sacre Coeur had a big line but it moved quickly. It was okay but I liked some other beautiful churches much more such as St. Severin which is right near Notre Dame and also St Mary Magdalene near Champs de Elysees which has a bone of hers in a reliquary.

I agree with the previous poster about Le Musee de l'Armee. This was one of my favorite museums in Paris.

Cluny was very interesting. Orsay was a mob scene and it was difficult to enjoy the art with the crowds. I was literally dodging people and snapping pictures on the fly.

I suggest the Picasso museum which wasn't crowded when I visited it late in the day. It was very close to my hotel in the Marais.

The Louvre was spectacular of course.

I'm not too interested in sculpture so I didn't get to Rodin. There is a Rodin museum in Philadelphia so I wouldn't waste time going there in Paris.

Posted by
128 posts

Notre Dame was not available last week due to the Pope's death. We visited twice in early April.

Invalides /Armee musee was good. We saw it our first day on the ground. Probably would have enjoyed it more if we had been more alert, but that's how it goes. It was not crowded when we went (April 1).