Paris: Recommendations in/around Rue des Martyrs & Marche d’Aligre?

Rue des Martyrs is one of my favourite spots. Last month when I was in Paris I did my usual routine and walked up one side and down the other. I took the bus there and back from my 6th arrondisement hotel to the Trinity bus stop off Rue Saint Lazare. There are various places to eat lunch, great small food shops including 2 fromageries, and locations for some of the pastry and chocolate spots on your list. A well regarded possible spot for lunch is a short distance away, Le Bon Georges, on rue Saint Georges. The other option is to criss cross the street and finish up in the Montmartre area. Be aware that Monday is not a great day for that street as lots may be closed. I believe the cars are blocked on Saturdays and Sundays to make it a pedestrian only street.

I'd start with a walk through the outdoor market. In years past, the Marché d'Aligre was known for carrying lesser quality produce. It's upped it game, but not their prices as much, in recent years. I think their prices are some of the best in the city; certainly better than in the single-digit arrondissements.

Walk through the Beauvau covered market. There's a shop in there whose name escapes me, but it's full of terrific ingredients, such as tonka beans, which for ridiculous reasons, are illegal in the US. (They're poisonous in large quantities, but you'd have to eat at least 8 pounds of them to suffer any effects). They have really nice olive oils, banyuls vinegar and other only-in-France things.

Blé Sucre patisserie is in this neighborhood as well. If you get there early, they'll have kouign amans, which if you've never had them will make you weep with joy.

The Grainerie du Marché is in the Place d'Aligre and is worth a visit.

Le Baron Rouge wine bar is overrun with tourists, but you might enjoy it if you want to hear some English.

There is an organic boulangerie on the r. Thomas Roussel, but the help has been snooty every single time I've been, so I stopped giving them my money.

Hi Claire

Thanks!

I’m so glad that on this trip, short as it is, I’m going to be able to do things like this - just enjoy bring in Paris and getting to know some areas I hadn’t been before

I already discovered Sebastien Gaudard (most beautiful website I’ve ever seen) and Aux Chambres Des Confiture just doing research, but I can’t wait to discover these shops on my own. I believe Fred and Fou de Pâtisserie are in the area as well…

No worries about Monday - I’m arriving that day. I’ll either be there on Tues or Wednesday most likely.

Le Bon Georges looks delish!

I probably won’t go to Montmartre…for now, I’ll leave the rest of the afternoon blank …any suggestions? It doesn’t have to be in that area…

Thank you!!!

Happy, I’ll do the market on a separate day - that and Beauvau. From what I’ve read, mainly locals go there

I keep seeing Tonka beans in pastries, lol, but just hearing that they can be toxic makes me nervous….even if it requires large doses. I guess it’s prohibited here for the same reason unpasteurized products are

Oh my god, you don’t understand - I’m in love with kouign amann. There’s a French bakery not far from where I live, and they have incredible patisserie. I think I died when I first tried the kouign amann. Ble Sucré goes right on my list - but before then, I need to go back to that bakery, lol

I’ll check out Grainerie du Marché as well - I love visiting such beautiful shops

Thank you so much!!

Henri Le Roux is there and I bought my caramels that day. The jam shop is great; I have brought items home from them in the past. The Rose Bakery is an English spot that is popular. There was a boulangerie part way up that seemed new and had a line up; I don’t remember the name but their items looked delicious. Too many choices!

If Montmartre isn’t of interest the stores along Haussman are close by. More foodie places in them. On a separate day of my visit I went to Printemps and to Laurent Dubois’s restaurant for a croque monsieur. He has a highly regarded fromagerie so I was keen to try his spot. I sat outside on the patio (6 or 7th floor; can’t remember) with a view of the city. It was warm enough even though it was November.

Oh good! I actually went to Henri Roux on a tour the last time I was in Paris - his caramels were sooo good!

Yep, I intend to bring a new jars home, absolutely.

The funny thing is that I’m spending almost 3 months in the UK before Paris - I’m actuality leaving for Paris from London. So if I ended up at a British tea room after 3 months…lol

I wonder if you're thinking of Mamiche?

I went to Sacre-Coeur last time, so I wouldn’t need to go there…but I shouldn’t have written off Monmartre so quickly. I don’t know if I really explored the area - I think I was just glad to get up the steps in the metro, lol

Ok, now THAT I need to do - a croque Monsieur in Paris; the menus look delish!!

I think I know what I’m going to do - I hope I have as lovely an experience as you did!

Thank you!

There was a book published a few years ago called:

The Only Street in Paris: Life on the Rue Des Martyrs by Elaine Sciolino

She's the former Paris bureau chief of the New York Times.

Frank, I would have bought the book sorest if it weren’t out of date at this point….but then, if I read it as a way to absorb myself in Paris, and not as a guide to shops, then it can never be out of date

Thank you!!!

I wouldn't call Elaine Sciolino's book out of date at all. It's more a flavor of the street - and of course she talks with various purveyors, some of whom may no longer be there - than a guide to shopping on the street.

Kim, thanks - I’m going to buy it!

Happy, or anyone else…you mentioned Le Baron Rouge near the Marche d’Aligre; the menu looks perfect for a light lunch….would it be an issue that I don’t drink?

I was also recommended Lorette, on/near Rue des Martyrs…anyone been?

Thanks!

Betsy, I ate lunch at La Grille, it's a Moroccan resto in the Place d'Aligre. I loved it, but I love ethnic food in Paris. There are any number of terrific restaurants, both French and ethnic, very near the market. Not sure you can really go wrong there.

You can absolutely eat at La Baron Rouge without drinking, but its food is not remarkable in any way.

Happy, I love ethnic good, too -Moroccan is yummy!

I love French food - there are so few restaurants near where I live, so generally I’m trying to take advantage while I can. But, going to Paris and not trying any of the various ethnic cuisines would be unfortunate…it feels like my Marche d’Aligre day might be a good chance for me to get my ethnic food fix, lol

That's the only restaurant I've eaten at in the immediate vicinity of the market, mostly because I'm usually just shopping, and am not there at meal time. I was showing friends the market area, so we lingered. As I said, you likely can't go too terribly wrong with any of the restaurants in the immediate vicinity.

Another good restaurant, for a proper meal, is Square Trousseau, which is just down the r. Thomas Roussel from the market. They have continuous service too.

Happy, thanks!

I may not be there for a meal, either - if I go in the morning. But, it’s good to have options.

Maybe I’ll take a walk on the Promenade Plantée….

Thank you for all of your help!

Betsy, I am not sure if it was Mamiche. It was at the lower end of the street. The Elaine Sciolino book is wonderful and definitely worth reading to bring the street to life even if some of the businesses have changed.

Another vote for Elaine Sciolino's very enjoyable book about Rue des Martyrs. She has also written another excellent book about the Seine.

Claire, I’ll check it out and report back!

The book sounds wonderful, and now another vote by Cynthia!

I’ll buy it tonight - and read it while I’m in the UK when I’ll really have the time …

Cynthia, the Seine book sounds fascinating …maybe 2 books!