Paris...off the beaten track

Chateau de Vincennes

Hi June, have you been to the Marmottan Museum? Interested in the culinary arts? How about E. Dehillerin?

Thanks for the replies. I will put Chateau de Vincennes on the list. I have been to the Marmottan and Dehilleran. I could visit Dehilleran again though!

Why go out to the "boonies" (wherever that may be) for food markets? Paris Walks has a tour (must sign up in advance) through the old market area in the heart of the city with lots of long-standing shops. Their chocolate walk is very good too. There are other accessible markets in the center. There are a number of "odd" small museums, one for netsuki, one for dolls, for example.

Marie Curie Museum near the Pantheon. It's free and fascinating and includes her workspace. But it's very small and open a limited number of days per week.

There is a medical history museum not far from The Cluney.

Get a Navigo Decouverte and do some day trips into nearby towns. Here are just a few we have done:
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/category/day-trips-from-paris/
Make your own adventure, go to the ends of metro lines, or to interesting churches in areas you haven't visited and explore what's there.
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/category/day-trips-from-paris/
Take a look at the trip to Lafayette's grave in that last collection; we thought it was pretty interesting to see.

I don't know if you've been up in the 19e but we've spent a lot of time around the Bassin de la Villette, Parc Butte Charmont and Parc Belleville. All really worth exploring, the latter two for their views especially.

I make no personal inference, but I was intrigued by the connection of the Marquis de Sade to the Chateau de Vincennes....and it's so easy to reach via metro line 1.

Maybe some inspiration here from the Huffington Post Paris Secret Streets or here Rescued from Oblivion. Hoping to get to some of these on a future trip.

A big thank you for the great suggestions in your replies.

I have visited many food markets on my own in central Paris and have my faves, President Wilson and Grenelle. Some of the markets further afield have North African and other influences; I want to experience that and smell the spices.

I may do some day trips; thank you janettravels. I have browsed through your blog before when reading the forum.

I will probably use my Navigo pass, I just have to find mine from 2 years ago to save 5 Euro!

I Love Paris and am counting down the days til I arrive; just over 6 weeks now.

Flea markets.. Vanves is our favorite....
Cemeteries ..not only Pere Lachaise, but Montparnasse...
Different passages....Verdeau etc......
Because my husband is a photographer we have always wanted to
take a graffiti tour..fascinating.

I personally love the parcs and gardens around Paris. If you haven't been yet, definitely check out Parc Monceau. Also, here's an article about 15 secret gardens that you could explore: http://www.curbed.com/maps/paris-secret-garden-map. There's also a book by Susan Cahill called Hidden Gardens of Paris - https://www.amazon.com/Hidden-Gardens-Paris-Squares-Woodlands/dp/0312673337

So, the Barbes market is in the boonies? I thought you meant going to markets in a small town.

Sometimes I just joyride the busses - which is easy to do with a navigo card.

Vincennes is on the metro (end of line 1, I think) and covered by the museum pass.

Have you seen the Roman ampitheater (Arenes de Lutece)?

Musée des Arts et Métiers http://www.arts-et-metiers.net/votre-visite for the curious.

Parc Monceau.
Dozens of smaller less-famous museums.
Velib.

I definitely recommend St. Denis Basilica, and the Picasso. Also recommend the Nissim Camondo museum (lovely home and furnishings) which is right next to the Parc Monceau. Hang out in as many parks as you can.
Also recommend Gustav Moreau museum.
Rue des Martyrs is a happening area right now that is getting a lot of publicity, may be an interesting stroll.

For getting lost in small winding streets, you can't beat Montmartre.

Great ideas! Thank so much. The links are much appreciated.

I will use public transport only so I plan visiting markets mainly in Paris but a good idea to find out the market dsys if I take daytrips.

Now I am getting really excited.

The Museum of Counterfeits doesn't just have things like fake designer purses, but also more sinister things, like fake medicines and car parts that have caused fatalities. Its on the edge of the Bois du Boulogne, at the Porte Dauphine metro (which, as a bonus, is the most intact version of Hausmann's original metro entry design).

The official website is only in French: https://musee-contrefacon.com/

But here's an article about it in English: http://nymag.com/thecut/2014/05/inside-pariss-bizarre-counterfeit-museum.html

I haven't heard of Bustronome or the Museum of Counterfeit. Sounds cool.

I have visited the Arenes de Lutece, such a peaceful space in the middle of the city.

Thanks for the suggestions.

An Art Nouveau Archecture Walk is my favorite activity in Paris. Several of my friends have never tried it. http://www.parisperfect.com/blog/2011/03/art-nouveau-7th-arrondissement/

I'm interested in Napoleon, so I enjoyed visiting Malmaison, Josephine's home with her rose garden and some of her dresses. Gotta love a love story!

You've probably been to the Jacquemart-Andre Museum on Blvd Haussmann, but if not you should consider it. And nearby Parc Monceau. Also a walk along the Promenade Plantee, formerly a viaduct between Opera Bastille and the eastern end of the city near Vincennes.

Ina Caro's Paris to the Past describes a lot of places you can reach by train, in Paris and as a day trip beyond. Some of them might interest you.

"off the beaten tracks...." Go to the 20th arrond.

I have not yet been to the Jacqumart Andre museum but it is on the list of things to do., as is the Arts & Metiers Musee.

I have walked along the Promenade Plantee, it is a neat place. I do highly recommend it too.

I will venture out to the 20th arrondissement on your recommendation.

I best get busy plotting my days out. I usually make a grand plan of things in a general vicinity, then change as I go. If I feel like spending 2 hours in a cafe people watching, I do it!

Thanks again. Apparently there are many other lovers of Paris.

Dad and I searched out the Birthplace of Edith Piaf. Cant remember exactly where it was - it was being repaired but there was a plaque and then we explored the nearby park. Bit of a pilgrimage for us

Jacquemart-Andre is lovely as others have indicated. Perhaps plan to have lunch in their cafe while there or, pickup something to enjoy at nearby Parc Monceau which is so charming. A few blocks away is Cathedral Nevsky, a tiny jewel box of a cathedral where Picasso was married. Breathtaking!

June,
I also enjoyed the Jacquemart-Andre Museum. They had a special exhibit on at the time of paintings by Italian Renaissance artists that was lovely. I had a delicious pastry in the elegant tearoom, a great place for people watching, too.

You did not mention concerts but I went to a beautiful one at the Cluny Museum where the Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries are hanging. Plus, the Cluny itself is marvelous, full of medieval art and sculptures. Rick Steves highlights the tapestries in his guidebook, too.

Enjoy!
Judy B

Patricia brings up an interesting angle about the Jacquemart-Andre. The exhibit this fall is called Rembrandt Intime, so if you've seen the great museums, there are many fine exhibits this fall. These caught my eye: Magritte at the Pompidou, Fantin-Latour at the Luxembourg Museum (Jardins de Luxembourg), Hodler, Monet, Munch at the Marmottan, Mexique at the Grande Palais (Diego Rivera et al.) , something interesting is on at the little Montmartre Museum.
Also, the dining at the Jacquemart-Andre is the former ballroom--with a ceiling painted by Tiepolo. Worth the visit.

The Musée Jacquemart-André is one of my favorites as is the Musée du quai Branly. They have never been empty when I have gone but they have never been even close to crowded. There is also Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris located in the eastern wing of the Palais de Tokyo, which is another museum that while not empty is not overrun with crowds. I find the Musée des Arts Forains a bit creepy but that is definitely small and off the beaten track. Cimetière de Montmartre is an interesting cemetery and the final resting place of Émile Zola, among others such as Stendhal and Gustave Moreau. For nice outdoor experience, you might consider the walk described here: http://www.unjourdeplusaparis.com/en/paris-balades/promenade-dans-la-mouzaia.

Museums: Jumping on the Jacquemart Andre bandwagon -- I've had a lovely experience doing it at night on the late closure evening. Also the Musee de la Chasse et de la Nature (that may be a personal preference... if you enjoyed Deyrolle, go -- if taxidermy makes you squeamish, avoid.) Also, since you've seen the highlights at other museums, I like Bets' suggestion to hit up exhibits that interest you. Lovely to swoop in, see what you're into, and swoop out without feeling pressured to manage the crowds.

Off the beaten path, in the city: Check out the 10th/11th/20th -- my favorite part of the city. Lots of very reasonable and interesting restaurants, and few tourists are willing to venture that far. Since you are a coffee fiend, check out Cafe Oberkampf, tucked away off Rue Oberkampf. (Fair warning, it's tiny and VERY popular, but for good reason.) Also, it's not exactly off the beaten track, but I love the little coffee shop that is part of the Merci store on Blvd Beaumarchais (3eme) as a nice place to stop for a rest.

Food market, city: Marche Aligre, just east of Bastille -- both the street market (along Rue d'Aligre), as well as the covered market. Plus, that puts you near Baron Rouge for a little oyster snack.

If you do go to Chateau de Vincennes (which I also highly recommend), take a walk through the Parc Floral across the street. It's gorgeous!

Great suggestions, thanks to all!

I will venture into the 11th for sure as some of the coffee places on my list are there. I have been to Merci on my last trip; I was seeking out the Midori Travelers Notebook.

As always this forum is a marvelous source of travel info. I will report back in the trip report. I am counting the days; departire is October 14!

Hi June,

You've gotten many great suggestions - may I add a few?

• There are several more cooking/cuisine stores in the general area of E. Dehillerin, so it can make a nice morning or afternoon adventure.
• Cooking classes at La Cuisine - I've done many and enjoyed them all. Very qualified owners and staff teach multiple classes in English.
• Paris-Walks.com offers LOTS of guided walking tours on a multitude of subjects. Yes, you can do it yourself with a book, but I like having someone who can answer my questions and gives some funny/sad/unknown info along the way. You can walk up and pay 12 euros or some of the more expensive ones (chocolate!) require reservations.
• Paris Greeters are a volunteer organization who will set up a tour based on YOUR interests, led by a Parisian volunteer. They don't charge per se but do accept donations - I usually give 10-15 euros. Try to set these up at least several weeks in advance b/c they have to find a Greeter who is available and matches your interests.

I too love going to the street markets - all that luscious food!

Hopefully will see you in October.

This post is very useful to me, too. I'm going to be in Paris from 24-29 December this year....my second time being there for Christmas. Thanks, everyone.

Malmaison, the home of Josephine and Napoleon, actually a small "homey" and furnished chateau on the outskirts of Paris, not too big or overwhelming. I copied another entry to this forum with instructions on how to get there: "Take Metro Line 1 from Pl de la Bastille to la Defense and then Bus 258 from there to the chateau. Tell the driver you want the chateau stop. It is then a 5 minute walk up a tree lined lane to the chateau."

Thanks to everyone for the detailed advice.

June,

I didn't read all the replies on this thread, so I don't know if someone else has suggested this.

My daughter & I enjoyed visiting the replica of the Statue of Liberty which is located at the far end of the Île des Cygnes (Island of Swans), in the Seine. You'll walk along a beautiful tree lined path to the very tip of the island where the statue is located.

Have a wonderful trip!

Thanks for the information on the Statue of Liberty; I will be staying near their after the tour and had planned on walking around that island.