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Paris & Normandy logistics

I am traveling to France this spring with my hubby, and would appreciate logistical advice regarding our itinerary. We have 8 days in France. I plan to fly into Charles de Gaulle and head to Normandy, where we will spend 5 days before finishing the trip in Paris. We plan to see the D-day beaches, Bayeux, & Mont St-Michel, and will probably squeeze in a few other sites as the opportunities arise. We will visit Versailles on a side trip from Paris by train.

My main question is whether it is better to rent a car from the airport (we arrive at 1 p.m.) and drive to Normandy, returning the car to the airport 5 days later (we won't keep it for our days in Paris), OR whether it makes sense to take a train from the airport to Rouen, pick up and return the car there, and take a train into Paris for our last few days.

We'd like to limit it to no more than two hotels, (aside from our hotel in Paris) and would also appreciate which towns would be the best "home bases" for our desired sites. Thank you!

Posted by
94 posts

We're doing a similar trip later in the summer and I decided to train to Caen, pick up a car and drive to Bayeux, which is about a 30 minute drive. We'll stay in Bayeux for two nights and we're doing an Overlord tour of the D-Day beaches while we're there. Then driving to MSM for the night before heading to Rouen. We plan on dropping the car in Rouen and taking the train into Paris for the remainder of our trip, maybe stopping in Giverny on the way.

Since we haven't actually done this yet, not sure how it will work out but wanted to try to help. Have a great trip!

Posted by
6 posts

That sounds like a good option, how long does it take to get to Caen by train?

Posted by
556 posts

Are you arriving on a flight from North America, or from somewhere else in Europe/other short-haul destination?

If it's the former, from North America, the general advice on these forums is to avoid long-distance driving immediately after arriving on an overnight transatlantic flight, as alertness can be significantly impaired after a flight like that (particularly if you're in a new country) due to jet lag and general drowsiness. I understand the impulse to make use of the time and get to your destination the same day, but just consider this when making your decisions.

Posted by
6 posts

We will actually be arriving from Iceland -- the flight is relatively short and the time difference is only an hour, so we will be fine to drive.

I looked up trains from CDG to Rouen or Caen, and it seems like the train takes longer and involves changing trains twice. Although we are pretty fit, neither of us finds the idea of changing trains twice while dragging luggage to be appealing. So the rental car idea is sounding better at this point, I think. We would probably drive to Rouen, spend the night there, then drive on the next day. We are thinking of staying 4 nights somewhere near Bayeux or Caen and using that as a home base to visit the nearby sites.

Posted by
1145 posts

I've done this both ways. But as long as you are not jet-lagged, I recommend renting from the airport. First, arriving at 1:00pm, you will hopefully get out of Paris before the rush-hour traffic gets bad. Secondly, either way it is usually faster to drive from CDG. Taking a train to Normandy involves first getting across town to Gare Saint-Lazare. I would count on an hour just to do that. Then you have to wait for the next train going your way.

Posted by
94 posts

Renting a car in Paris sounds like a good plan for you. I looked at the train schedule and I don't see a change from Saint Lazare in Paris to Caen. Of course, you do have to get from CDG to Saint Lazare but we're just going to take a taxi. Have a great trip!

Posted by
4132 posts

Drive, since jet lag is not an issue.

But no need to return the car to deGaulle.

What I would do: Make your last night in Normandy an overnight at Mont St Michel. The drive to Rennes, return the car there, and take the TGV to paris.

Posted by
32219 posts

You may already have covered this, but each driver will require an International Driver's Permit for driving in France, which is used in conjunction with your home D.L. You may also want to pack along a GPS (or use Google Maps on your phone if you have a data plan).

I would highly recommend taking one of the excellent tours of the D-Day beaches, as you'll learn more about the history and it will be a far more interesting and rewarding experience. Pre-booking the tour would be highly advisable.

Posted by
3241 posts

I have bookmarked this as I was wondering the same for our trip next year. Rent from CDG or elsewhere. I think for us, CDG makes sense as we want to stop in Giverny.
How difficult is it to drive out of Paris?
I have driven in Norway, Scotland and Ireland.

Posted by
313 posts

It's not that hard to drive out of the car rental area at CDG. I personally wouldn't drive out of Paris itself. If you return the car to CDG, it can be tricky. The ramps go around in a circle between the terminals, and you have to keep a sharp eye where to turn to descent into the return area. If you miss it the first time, you can go around again, just like in a traffic circle. If you pick up there, you'll alreay have an idea of how it's set up.

Our first trip driving in France we did our Paris visit, then took the RER to Versailles and rented a car there. It worked fine, especially so I could get over the 1st time experience in a rural location, but you have very little (no?) choice in car. This is true for many of the smaller locations -- they must ship over what's needed from a larger location. Since then we rented at Orly (nearer to our hotel), but have settled on CDG as the best. Less hassle, accustomed to more volume, etc. Also quicker in and out, less arguments over wanting to pay in euros.

Posted by
313 posts

By the way, I've only gotten an international driving permit for Italy. According to this website and anything else I've read, you don't need one for France.

I assume you have the RS book on France, and after seeing most of the D-Day sites, I'd agree with him that the Utah Beach museum is the best in the area, and also gives you a chance to visit the church in Angoville-au-Plain (very moving). We also enjoyed the museum in Arromanches that showed Port Winston in full swing, and of course all of the Omaha Beach locations to see. At both beaches it's worth actually going down to the shore, not just looking down from above, in order to imagine what those troops faced and stand where they did if they were lucky enough to reach it.

Posted by
6 posts

Thank you everyone for the great tips, I need to get my international drivers permit asap! We are also looking into the idea of staying on Mont St-Michal and then taking the TGV from Rennes to Paris -- we would still have to drive, but not as far and we could both relax and enjoy the scenery on the train.

Doe anyone have good suggestions for a hotel in the Bayeux area? We don't need fancy, just clean and comfortable.

Posted by
38 posts

To address your question about accommodations near Bayeux, we spent 4 nights at La Ferme du Pressoir last July and loved it. It's a b & b and the owner, Odile, is simply lovely. She doesn't speak much English but we had no difficulty making ourselves understood. Www.bandbnormandie.com.

The property is a farm with some animals and a lovely area on the lawn to sit and relax. The breakfast was to die for. 7 months after being there, I still salivate at the thought of Odile's breakfasts! The farm is about a 20 minute drive from Bayeux, close to a village called Villers Bocage. We did not find the drive to be onerous...we rather enjoyed driving down the Normandy country lanes.

At 120 euros a night, we also found it to be a good deal. We had the room that could accommodate all 4 of us (me, hubby plus 2 kids).

Posted by
1145 posts

This has been debated several times on this forum, and I'll get flamed for saying this, but you DO NOT need an international Driver's license for France. There is a regulation that you need to have a certified translation of your U.S. driver's license, and an IDL is one way to do this. But I've never been asked for it, and not one person on this forum has posted that the lack of this has caused them any problem in France whatsoever. I do carry a translation of my license in case I'm asked, but have never been asked for it (you can make one yourself with a simple online search).

And honestly, these days you are most apt to get a ticket in France from a photo radar unit by mail after you return. Along with the fine will be a "fee" charged to you by the rental car company for telling them where to find you.

Posted by
27206 posts

The point others have made is that if you get stopped by police for some sort of random check, or get into a fender-bender, etc., things may not go so well for you if you do not have the required French translation of your US license. The fact that many travelers have driven in France and never been stopped by the police doesn't mean that the next traveler will not have that experience.

Posted by
32219 posts

Regarding the IDP issue, this is what the Embassy of France in the U.S. has to say....

"If you are on a short visit or short business trip (less than 90 days) You may drive with a valid U.S. driver's license if it is accompanied by a notarized translation in French. It is strongly recommended that you carry an International Driving Permit. You must be 18 years of age or older to drive in France."

The key wording is "if it is accompanied by a notarized translation in French" and "it is strongly recommended."

An IDP is an easier option than a notarized translation, and given the low cost and ease of obtaining one, it seems like the best option. Whether you're asked for it or not, is not the issue. Take it as you will.

Posted by
1145 posts

My point is that many people have been pulled over without an IDL or certified translation and not had an issue. And despite protests by people on this forum, not a single person has posted that they ever had a hard time in France because they didn't have an IDL. Not one.

Posted by
32219 posts

Pharmer,

As I mentioned above, " Whether you're asked for it or not, is not the issue." Either an IDP or a notarized translation of the driver's home D.L. is required by French authorities, as stated on the Embassy website. Whether anyone on the forum has ever been asked to produce an IDP during a routine traffic stop is also not the issue. Should a rental car driver be involved in a "traffic incident", having an IDP could be crucial.

Also, just for clarification, there's no such thing as an "IDL". An IDP must be used in conjunction with the renters home D.L.

Posted by
1145 posts

Again, I knew I'd get flamed for this. It happens every time. btw, there are laws that you must have a breathalyzer test kit in your car in France too. Not enforced, not an issue. Please reach out if this has ever been an issue to anyone on this forum—and especially if the need for one has been "crucial."

Posted by
32219 posts

Pharmer,

It was not my intention to "flame" anyone, but rather to simply point out that either one document or the other is required when driving rental cars in France. There have been times here when I've been stopped by police in a routine impaired driving check, and they haven't always asked for my DL. However I'm well aware that I definitely need to have that with me at all times whilst driving.

Posted by
827 posts

Hotel Particulier Poppa is a great option in Bayeux. It's in a historic building; Phillipe and Sophie will ensure a memorable stay; breakfast is included, as is parking; rooms are large, clean and comfortable; walking distance to everything in the city. Loved our stay there! https://www.hotel-poppa.com/en/home/