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Paris itinerary feedback with kids

Hi there,

We are going to Paris at the end of May/beginning of June. We're a family of four with what will be an almost 8 year old and almost 11 year old. This is a really rough itinerary I thought of and wondered if anyone had any suggestions.

Day 1: We will fly into Amsterdam and take the train to Paris-Nord, with an arrival time of 2:35. I'm not sure how we'll feel at this point, but I was thinking we could possibly do a Seine River cruise that night if we are up for it and just walk around.
Day 2: Sainte-Chapelle, Notre Dame, Berthillon ice cream?, Shakespeare and Co, and perhaps the Cluny Museum. I don't really have a sense of how long this would all take. We have Eiffel Tower tickets for 5:30 pm. I was thinking that if we were up for it maybe we could pop in the Louvre afterwards because I think it closes at 9:45 pm on this day.
Day 3: Maybe go to Versailles? Maybe go to the Pompidou when we get back (it appears to stay open pretty late).
Day 4: Maybe the Orangerie in the morning. Then Luxembourg Gardens, maybe the Louvre again or for the first time if we don't go day 2, then Arc de Triomph.
Day 5: Maybe Les Invalides, Rodin Museum, Rue Cler
Day 6: Catacombs (we have tickets for this day in the morning). Then maybe Montemarte and Sacre de Coeur?

I was planning on getting the 4-day Museum Pass for me and my husband to use on days 2-5, so I feel like those museums can be interchangeable on those days if needed. Can we buy the Museum Pass at the train station when we arrive so that we will have them for the next morning? Is there anything that I am leaving out that we shouldn't miss? Do I have too many museums in this itinerary? I appreciate the help!

Posted by
6538 posts

On Day 1, you may get naps on the train along with views of the countryside. That will give you a little more energy when you reach Paris. I'd certainly recommend walking around outside, exploring your hotel's neighborhood. But it might not be the best day or evening for a Seine cruise, where you really don't want to nod off and miss anything. You can do such a cruise any day, so maybe wait till you're better adjusted to the time and you have nice weather.

You should be able to do everything you plan for Day 2 without difficulty. You could also visit the Deportation Memorial at the east end of the Ile de la Cite if you want your kids to learn something about the Holocaust. I like the Cluny very much, and it would be a good place to get your Museum Passes since it's seldom crowded.

You know your kids, but I wonder how enthusiastic they'll be about all those museums. An advantage of the Museum Pass is the ability to "pop into" one without feeling the need to stay long (maybe just for bathroom purposes).

Versailles would be interesting, try to get there as early as possible for less crowding, and preferably not on a weekend, or a Monday or Tuesday when other major museums are closed and people head out there. Spend some time in the gardens and maybe at the Hameau, Marie Antoinette's pretend-farm.

On Day 4 you seem to be jumping all over town. Those are all worthwhile sights but it's a long way from Luxembourg Gardens to the Arc. The Metro will help, and/or buses.

Rue Cler is a picturesque market street like many others in Paris, with a higher percentage than others of Americans holding blue and gold guidebooks. Nothing wrong with the place, but it's far from unique. Other market streets include Rue Daguerre, Rue Mouffetard, Rue Levis, Rue Montorgeuil, and others. Any are worth a visit. Others may share their preferences and "hidden gems" on this thread.

I visited the Catacombs many years ago at 19 and found them fascinating. Since then I've taken a pass, but they're very popular. Keep in mind that it's hard, maybe impossible, to exit once you've entered -- it's a one-way subterranean walk. But a good way to talk about the sweep of history, looking at all those anonymous medieval skulls looking back at you.

Lucky kids, to be exposed so early in life to one of the world's great cities, hopefully to be revisited again and again.

Posted by
24 posts

Hello. We visited as a family two years ago and went to many of the same places.

Here are my thoughts:

Day 1: I am guessing you are flying in from the US, in which case you might not feel like a cruise. If you board the ship and feel tired, you are sort of a prisoner until it is over. I would suggest just walking to a nice cafe for an early dinner.

Day 2: The Cluny does not take too long (90min-2hrs). I think this day would work-with one exception. The Louvre is very big and I am not sure your kids will want to tackle something like that after such a full day (you will be tired as well-Eiffel tends to wear people out a bit). I would suggest you go on Day 4 and see the Orangerie (which does not take too long, but worth visiting) that same afternoon. We bought a scavenger kit called ThatLou, from website thatmuse.com. It is a bit expensive and there are free versions online but I cannot speak to their quality. The one we purchased was quite good and my son was a great museum goer for a few hours. Also, I would get there early.

Day 3: For us, the Versailles took all day. We walked the palace, all the gardens, grand trianon, the empress's apartments, and took in the fountain show. It was wonderful, but we were quite tired. The lines get very long and I would suggest getting there absolutely early as possible. You could possibly do Pompidou on Day 5. Alternatively, you could go on your first evening-that way, you could leave early if you are too tired. There are places to eat nearby and the atmosphere is fairly kid-friendly.

Day 4: see above (suggest Louvre)

Day 5 and 6: Look good
Would move Luxembourg gardens to Day 6. Plan to let children rent a toy sailboat. Catacombs do not take too long. The 8 year-old might be a bit young, but you know best.

As for the museum question, you might want to cut one. I would definitely not add any more. We bought our museum pass at the airport, but if you look it up online they will give you all the purchasing options.

It takes time to get from place to place and I strongly suggest unscheduled time to just walk around. Generally, you need more time than you think you will. The sightseeing is a lot for children and they need lots of rest. Also, restaurant meals tend to be very slow experiences. While it is lovely to not rush through dinner, try to keep this is mind when planning the day.

Have a great trip!

Posted by
2707 posts

Here is a great place for lunch or dinner near Luxembourg Gardens. La Cuisine de Philippe. They specialize in soufflés, both savory and sweet. The kids will love it (you will too!).

Posted by
34 posts

Thank you for all of the recommendations! I appreciate the help. I will plan on not doing a cruise the night we get in and will also not plan anything else on Versailles day. We'll move the Louvre like you suggest, ampsj. My son really wanted to do the catacombs so that is why I went ahead and got tickets for it. I feel not too wed to any particular museum, except for maybe the Cluny to see the unicorn tapestries (my daughter is really into unicorns), so we will play them all by ear and not feel disappointed if we need to leave from one early or not make it to one that is on our tentative schedule. Thank you for the restaurant suggestion! If there are other things that your kids really liked, I would love to hear it.

Posted by
6538 posts

Well, of course the Unicorn Tapestries are a must!

You've probably discussed this, but the four of you don't have to stick together like glue. You could pair off, one parent and one kid, and do different things some of the time.

Posted by
9422 posts

The Luxembourg Gardens has a really fun playground, carousel, marionette shows, and donkey rides. Plus two cafés, crêpe stands, ice cream and bathrooms.
Budget enough time to really enjoy it if your kids enjoy playgrounds.
My son loved it when he was your kid’s age. Unintended consequence was he played with kids from all over the world which really opened his mind, and in school he could relate better when learning about other countries, cultures, history and geography.

Posted by
14003 posts

I’ll just add this about the Cluny. I was there on Sunday (3/31) and although I knew they were renovating and much was closed I didn’t realize how many rooms were not available. The Lady and the Unicorn set of 6 tapestries IS available. You can go down to the basement level and see the Roman bath area then there were only about 3 other rooms open which mightbor might nit have items of interest displayed.

Since you’ll have the museum pass this curtailed visit will be fine but you’ll probably spend more time getting there than in the museum itself. I’d combine it on your Luxembourg Gardens day.

While I like to stay in the Rue Cler area, to me it’s not much of a destination. If you are looking for a place to eat if you go to the Army Museum it’s good but I’d not travel there just so “see” it.

On the Louvre visits, have a plan ahead of time (floor plans on the Louvre website) and head for one or two floors in one wing. Mona Lisa route is most crowded but it does take you by the Statue of Winged Victory (Nike swoosh inspiration). If you want to see something like the Code of Hammurabi or the apartments of Napoleon III or even the rooms with the Rembrandts or Vermeers, they will be less so. It can be very hot in there as well.

I’ve taken to buying my Museum Pass at the Tabac down the street from my hotel. If you put one of the less busy museums first (Rodin, Army or Cluny) you can get it there. Before I discovered the Tabac sold them I used to always buy at the Army Museum.

Posted by
613 posts

I can't believe that kids will go for all those museums you have planned. Here's an educational adventure I think kids will love. First, go to the place where Marie Antoinette had her head chopped off. Relate this in the most bloody possible fashion-- blood and gore, screaming crowds, let starving people eat cake since they didn't have bread. Then go to Versailles. Tour the palace where Marie Antoinette lived & Le Hammeau, a peasant farm where Marie played at being a shepherd. Explain how the real shepherds lived in the barn, were starving because they couldn't afford bread, and died very young. That's why they, being inspired by George Washington., killed Marie and her husband King Louis something or other.

Then go back to Versailles on a day when the garden fountains are in action.

Posted by
8293 posts

Well, thank you for the charming post about King Louis and Marie Antoinette, kb1942. As my Scottish grandma would have said, "Who stole your scone?" In other posts you tell us that you hate Paris and that Venice is a slum. So do tell us, who stole your scone?

Posted by
34 posts

Thanks for the additional tips! We will be sure to leave ample time in Luxembourg Gardens. And that is a good point about splitting up if need be, Dick. Point taken about the museums, ha ha! I will have them on a tentative schedule, in case we need some destinations but not be adamant about any of them. I really only put the Pompidou on the list just for the escalator. Are there other areas of Paris that you think kids would enjoy just hanging out in?

Posted by
9422 posts

In the evening in front of Notre Dame, and all day and evening on the pedestrian bridge behind Notre Dame, there are street entertainers... fun to watch.

There’s a wonderful old-fashioned amusement park in the Bois de Boulogne park on the western edge of Paris called Jardin d’Acclimatation that my son loved up to age 13. It’s geared to that age and younger. Clean and fun. But you may not want to take that much time from Paris to enjoy it.

Posted by
11507 posts

Well I don’t know how many of previous posters have actually taken young children to Versailles , I have , twice .

First took my 13 yr old son , he enjoyed it when we rented bikes on the grounds and I let him take off on his own ( to ride around canal ) . He enjoyed Marie Antoinette’s hamlet and rest of grounds . The palace he tolerated .

Two years later took my 11 yr old daughter , she too enjoyed grounds and outer buildings . She did NOT enjoy palace much as she being only 11 , so shorter than her brother , barely saw anything but people’s backs and elbows in her face ! The palace is a MOSH pit ! Your wee ones will likely not enjoy the crowds inside , they can be awful , and it can be hot in there , all those packed bodies and no ac , and the “path “ through palace rooms narrows to bottle necks in several places .

Honestly o would think twice before taking kids younger than 13 through that again .

Posted by
9422 posts

My 11 yr old son loved touring inside the palace. I was ready to leave before he was so i waited outside for him. Everyone is different.
We’ve been back more times than i can count since then.
Renting bikes is fun, but you can’t ride them out to the Hamlet anymore (they’ve closed that entrance - now you can only get there by walking from the Petit Trianon) which is a huge disappointment.