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Paris, high value/price bistro/bistronomie restaurants and food activitiy suggestions

Hello all,
I’m headed to Paris in early March for eleven nights to celebrate a milestone birthday and am looking for current recommendations for restaurants and interesting food related activities, stores, cookware shops etc.. I’m an ex chef and I lived in the 7th and went to cooking school for a year in Paris in the mid 80’s. I make it back every 3-4 four years but am looking for some fresh ideas. I’m staying in the 11th near M Voltaire. If there are any places near there great but I plan on making every night a dining adventure so will go pretty much anywhere. Language is not an issue.

As far as restaurants I’m interested in French bistro/ bistonomie type of places. 55 euros pp for a three course prix fixe menu excluding wine. I enjoy regional/rustic cooking and updated versions of classics but nothing too fusion..y or plates that are fussed over too much. Not a huge fan of foams/gels/powders etc.. Nor am I a fan of most natural wines, so no restos that serve only these types of wine. A few of my favorites from 2017 were Astier, La Regalade, L’Os a Moelle, Juveniles, Auberge Cevennes Pyrenees,

Also looking for ideas for interesting food related activities. Markets/shops/artisanal food producers, not cooking classes however. I thought I’d take a tour of the Rungis Market but reviews of tours there are not terribly positive. I’m browsing site like Lefooding, TA, Alex Lobrano, Patricia Wells etc. but am looking for some personal recommendations from the folks on this great forum. Thanks in advance for any responses.

Best,
wvdthree

Posted by
153 posts

Since you will be staying in the 11th, I might suggest a restaurant there that we occasionally frequent. It is called Fulgurances. https://fulgurances.com/en/47-2/ The interesting thing about the place is that they deliberately change chefs regularly, mostly to give innovative younger chefs a chance to shine. It can be wonderful or "not quite", depending, but always interesting. Here is a link to the latest culinary hopeful: sophie@fulgurances.com via gmail.mcsv.net

Posted by
2261 posts

You might have a look at Le Pantruche. Also, though not quite what you're asking for, Au La Biche Au Bois is fantastic for their old school vibe and game dishes, really good.

Posted by
70 posts

Dave, thanks for the link to La Pantruche, it looks good!! I was at La Biche au Bois in 2017 and had kind of "meh" experience. Foie gras, grousse with potato/celery root puree and slice of several day old rhubarb tart. I was really looking forward to it but was a bit let down.

Posted by
10188 posts

I read John Talbot's restaurant reviews before our two-week trip in November. We liked some but others not as well. One interesting one was a lunch stand/restaurant in the Marché Saint Quentin, Pardi, but they aren't open at dinner. I was able to reserve a lunch table. In fact, the Marché has some very interesting, independent food stands/restaurants. It's a low-cost way for chefs to get started. But it's chilly in there if staying for a period of time, so dress warmly. Bd. de Magenta in the 10th, near the Gare du Nord. I'm unaware of any new equipment suppliers; it's still E. Dehillerin as it was back in the 1980s and before.
New to me, though it's probably been there forever, was a cookbook shop: Librarie Gourmande 92-96 rue Monmartre 75002
https://www.librairiegourmande.fr/

One big change I noticed this year is a trend back to the old stand-bys: poireaux vinagrette, boeuf mode, bourgogne, etc. And bouillons are opening all around. Chartier has branches now and there is a Bouillon Pigalle with lines around the block of people wanting to try the old recipes: a little langue de boeuf sauce piquante anyone.

Posted by
67 posts

Let us know where you end up going! I really loved Cyril Lignac's café nearby Voltaire, I forgot the name, but it is opposite his bakery, which is well worth visiting. Have a great trip!

Posted by
2261 posts

I have heard similar comments occasionally about au Bois, and it reminds me of Bistro Paul Bert, though to a smaller degree. We had an excellent meal/time at BPB, and many report the same-I had beef kidney with giant pasta shells and a mustard sauce-mmmm. But, a fair number will say they got short shrift-oh well, I think it's worth a shot. Great menu and a huge, very good wine list.

Another spot that we liked is Caillebotte, named after the not-as-well-known-as-other-painters Gustave Caillebotte. Caillebotte is a sister resto to Le Pantruche. A tad more modern in presentation, but note in the linked comments below what reviewers say about the staff there-they were superb.

https://parisbymouth.com/caillebotte/

Non food related: This episode of A French Frye in Paris features Caillebotte and probably his best known work, along with other painters of the day...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJjr5EHd9MM

Posted by
12172 posts

I used to own a restaurant, and worked in many others, but I don't consider myself an epicure. Here's some places I liked.

I was very happy with a little place near Canal St. Martin - Philou. It's pricey for my normal budget - a nice meal was roughly 50 euro.

For Asian - Le Petit Cambodge. If you crave Asian at a regular price, this is a good choice.

Up in the Marais, there's a place I visit every time I'm in Paris. Four years ago it was a tiny hole-in-the-wall, now it's much bigger and more crowded - Breizh Cafe. The food style is from Brittany. The place is larger and mostly packed now. They have a small store around the corner with some seating (maybe for 8 to ten total?). If the place is full, often people won't know the other option. I found the food was good and the price very reasonable - the kind of place I visit more than once.