Paris Day Trip and general Paris questions

Hi. What a great surprise for your wife. I have been to Paris and to Versailles and I really wouldn't want to take a toddler there. But Rick Steves has a supplemental video on this site called "Side Trips from Paris" which includes Chartes, Versailles, Vaux-le-Vicomte and Fontainebleu. DH and I plan to spend a couple of days before our Paris trip going to Fontainebleu and Vaux-le-Vicomte. I think either of those would be good for a toddler. Easy from Paris and lots of garden to run around in.

Other than that, have a good trip and just play it by ear depending on weather and whatnot.

Option 3: Im originally form SoCal and grew up at Disneyland & still enjoy it at 50. Paris Disneyland crowd wise is nothing like the original Disneyland or Disney World. Went summer of 2014, the longest line was Pirates about 20min., the British family in front of me were saying it was such a long wait and I just smiled. Food there not so good, heard that near the Ratatouille ride/area was decent eating. There is also another amusement park outside of Paris, Asterix Park: http://www.parcasterix.fr/en, you may want to check out.

Option 4: I would imagine Fontainebleau would be less crowded then Versailles, I'll find out on 3 June. You can get there on your own without a tour group, same as Versailles. If you have a Metro Pass or Navigo Decouverte card out to Zone 5, you can take the train from Paris to the Fontainebleau-Avon stop (40min.). The bus from the Metro Station to the Chateaux is even covered by the Navigo Decouverte card. http://www.chateaudefontainebleau.fr/spip.php?page=sommaire&lang=en

Option 5: Mont St. Michel is on my list to do as well, but with your limited time I would not attempt it. The majority of recommendations from this site is spending the night. Packed with tourists throughout the day. Best viewed in evening and early morning when the busses and crowds are gone. You'll waste a day just getting there and back.

If looking at tours, Paris City Vision,http://www.pariscityvision.com, offers many options. Do not go through Viator.com, they are a 3rd party that would be booking you on a PCV tour.

Parks are nice place to walk through during your city walks, fun for the little one. Also, there is a carnival/fair along the Tuileries Garden that has rides for smaller children.

Added: Paris Walks offers tours on foot as well: http://www.paris-walks.com.

Enjoy.

I think that Mont St Michel is too far and you would spend most of the day traveling. There are already some good suggestions from other posters.
I do want to put on a vote for Reims. It is 45 minutes away by TGV. Each of the Champaign Houses is a bit different. Pommery has an exhibit of modern art, one with little sparrows using a guitar and its strings as perches. When they flew off they would twang the strings. The others were all mixed media, but I think that a toddler may find that interesting. But that was about 5 years ago. My point is that if you are really interested, you may want to research the Champagne Houses and see if one fits your needs. Also the Cathedral is amazing.

Most of these day trip suggestions sound punishing for a 3 year old -- champagne houses? really? and Versailles where she will have to walk and see nothing but butts? I personally think the cost benefit ratio if off for DLP for a child this age. I'd consider something like the antique children's amusement park in the Bois de Bologne. Jardin d'Acclimatation.

There are caroussels all over Paris, in most of the large parks and often here and there on traffic islands. However the carnival in the Tuilleries goes up in late summer usually and the great wheel at Concord is a Christmas time thing. I am sure if this has changed someone will hop in here.

Mont St. Michel is not likely to be interesting to a child this young and involves a very long round trip from Paris. Fontainbleau or Vaux le Victomte both have enormous gardens and a child could run around but for such a short trip you might just think Paris.

Thank you for the replies, some great advice.
I did know that Paris has some great city parks with things for families with children and should have mentioned that.

Tuileries Garden was on my original list and somehow I omitted it but seems like a walkable place for us.
I was skeptical Mont St. Michel could work so the replies confirmed it will not so consider it off the list.
Going to nix Versailles as well, with the stroller restriction and potential for just being more hassle than enjoyment there is no need to take the risk.

I kind of feel like getting out one of days would be nice, so while I am sure we could find enough to do staying right in Paris, I also feel like the 4 nights and no museums planned would allow us for 1 day trip.

My concern with Reims is not logistics but the houses may not be a good place for a young child. Been to Napa/Sonoma and cannot say I recall seeing any young children there though US and Europe have much different attitudes regarding children and alcohol exposure. It could be an issue though when everyone but my daughter is served and she cannot have anything, that could be a meltdown right there. My other concern is management attitude and hoping maybe someone could chime in on that, would it be discouraged or in general looked down on for us to bring her here. Otherwise the general movement and new place to explore I think would provide enough visual entertainment value for her. The cave areas as long as we bring layers I think she would enjoy. She is not the type that needs to run about and wants to stay close to her mom most of the time so content shopping and the like. I think the age of 3 is more tolerant for doing what the parents want to do than say 5,6,7,8, etc... which is why I did plan to do so much on this trip as we may not get the chance again for many years. Long lines though she is too young to have patience for. I imagine Reims there is no really long lines involved with anything.

Disney would have lines but in general she would want to walk around, see the characters and the things around her more than go on rides at her age and interest level so don't think lines will get us there as long as on a Monday or Tuesday I realize the price to go to Disney anywhere would never be a value proposition but given the ease of actually visiting a Disney theme park from Paris while already there compared to going on a dedicated vacation to see the one in FL ; the cost and time is actually much lower. CA I guess is comparable if we were on a trip to CA it could be done easily by taking up 1 day but still involves driving, traffic, parking, etc... The ease of a public transit Disney trip has some appeal and to me is something that might not be bad for a rainy/gloomy day and we will be there vs. having to book a future vacation to do it. it is not my idea of a vacation but we do like the brand and buy many of their toys and watch the movies with her so she knows it well enough to greatly enjoy being at one of their parks.

I am thinking of planning out exactly how to get to Disney and also a Reims day along with picking 2 houses that we would visit along with the Cathedral and the logistics so I know what to do and then let Wife decide which she would prefer. She will have interest in both. Fontainebleau while I am sure worthy of a day trip does not seem to me to have the same prominence on our most see list as Reims, given that my wife has talked about someday going to the Champagne region and though we cannot really afford it and she does not have it often Champagne is definitely her favorite adult beverage.
Veuve Clicquot is her favorite brand I think so would be ideal but know they require days in advance reservations and Taittinger appears to be the only place that accepts walk up visits but I am not sure if she has as high an opinion of that brand.

As a general rule not a fan of any organizer tours, as I am a big planner and enjoy that part.

My granddaughters have wanted to go to Paris ever since they were your daughter's age because of the Madeline books by Ludwig Bemelmans. They've loved everything French since having these books read to them. I bought French /English "flash cards" for them and they loved playing language games with them. Last year we got to take them to Paris for their first time. Enjoy building some great surprises and memories. I highly recommend getting a Madeline book as a pre trip, 3 year old surprise.

Good idea Mona! I know for a fact somewhere we have at least one of the Madeline books if not multiple at home. I just have to dig them up and start reading them to her when Mom is not around and get her into it (that is a good subtle way pre-trip)

The flash cards can be used as part of her entertainment on the flights as well.

Sounds like this will be a wonderful trip for your family. I'm a planner myself and if I was your wife, I'd like to be in on the process. Are you sure she doesn't want to have a say in planning the itinerary?

I think that Disneyland Paris is a great idea. Your child probably won't remember much but you will have some terrific photos to remind her of the trip. Versailles would also be a nice day trip. You could work in a picnic and there's a lot of space for your daughter to run around. I really enjoyed Marie Antoinette's Hamlet. I wasn't impressed with Reims and, aside from the short train trip, I don't think it would be much fun for your daughter.

Reading the Madeline books with your daughter is another great idea. My niece loved Madeline when she was a kid. She's in high school now and taking French. Last year I looked all over France trying to find a book for her written in French. They didn't know what I was talking about, said that Madeline is an American-thing, not French at all! I was really surprised. I found a book in French on Amazon, but it wasn't quite the same.

Hope you have a great trip!

Yes, good thought on the flash cards. Flight from Venice to Paris is so short, hopefully we can use French ones but the longer Italy from US trip we can definitely use Italian ones, will be adding that to my shopping list.

Curious to know Madeline is a US thing, I thought somewhere there is a café dedicated to it and thought it was in Paris (was just looking myself this morning via Google with no luck) and now that you mention this I recall that place may be in NYC not Paris at all.

This would be our third big trip in recent years and most all of our vacations including our honeymoon I have planned for my wife with her having no knowledge, she gets a real kick out of it this way and does not want to know. I like you am the opposite and would not like a surprise trip planned out for me. Makes the planning harder for me and this is definitely the largest of any of them but I enjoy it.
Previous 2 trips most recent trips were to Italy and to the Western US to visit national parks (Yellowstone & Grand Teton) This trip will be during our 15th wedding anniversary and also her 40th b-day, so needed to be a big one. Her birthday she can have breakfast in Venice and dinner in Paris which I think she will really love!

If you really want or need a day outside Paris, I'd recommend Disney. As you say, if your toddler is happy you and wife will be too. Reims a second choice if the champagne houses mean that much to your wife, but I can't imagine your daughter would enjoy that trip. (Don't miss the cathedral if you go though.) Paris itself has more than enough to keep you all busy and happy, even without museums, for four days. But this is your family, we could all go on and on but you'll have to decide.

Place Dauphine should be a wonderful base for your stay. Easy walking to many sights, though not so easy to the Opera, Tour Montparnasse, Pont Alexandre III, or Eiffel Tower. (BTW, not much point going to Tour Montparnasse if you're going up the Eiffel Tower. But TM is a good easy alternative to ET for view-from-the-top purposes, much less crowded, no significant lines, no need to reserve ahead with unknown weather.)

The Metro is easy, though it has many steps which won't be so easy with the stroller, and it can be very crowded. Consider the excellent bus network, using the same tickets as the Metro, for easier on-and-off, more interesting journeys through the streets, though slower.

Not my business, but when do you plan to spring the surprise on the wife? When you check into the flight from Venice and have to reveal the destination? ;-)

Thanks Dick, I appreciate you reading my novel and addressing my question about walking from our choice of stay,
I tend to be too wordy!

Reason for wanting to go to TM was I want one great picture of the sunset/night skyline. I am a photographer so this means tripod and related gear which are not allowed on the ET, Arc di Triumphe, Notre Dame, etc... so my options and planned shots at sunset include 1 shot from TM and another night from Pont Alexandre III bridge weather permitting ; one of those nights an evening shot or two from Trocadero or closer up looking at the tower would follow but are less perfect light dependent. TM may be a solo trip if wife does not want to wait around for the proper light, proper view so I may excuse myself for a couple of hours to do that one evening. Tour Montparnasse from what I have read is very friendly to photographers and allows tripods on their open air deck which is quite rare and I hope will not be changing in light of the recent terror attacks.

No worries on your last question: I would plan on telling her after we board planes both in the cases of Italy and France. So for Paris would not be until we are boarding a plane in Venice or she sees the tickets in Venice's airport.

On one of our trips to Paris I too tried to buy a Madeline book in French with no luck. I didn't realize that they weren't known or available in France. Our granddaughters' aunt lives in Montreal and she said they were available in French in Canada. I ended up buying a French version on Amazon too like Donna.

On that same trip, since the girls were so obsessed with Madeline and weren't on the trip with us, we went around taking pictures of some of the scenes in the book. This summer when the youngest, who is now 10, saw the Eiffel Tower and Pont Neuf for the first time, she was over the moon seeing these familiar scenes come to life.

P S the cafe in NYC with a children's book connection might be from the Eloise books. There is a portrait at the Plaza Hotel for the character Eloise who figures prominently as a child resident of the Plaza. There is a really cute book when Eloise goes to Paris (with nanny) to see her mother. The book is a hoot but it is a little too old for a 3 year old.

NYC seems to have the monopoly on Paris' children book themed cafes cause there is also a Madeline one
http://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/the-carlyle-new-york/dining/bemelmans-bar
In the Carlyle Hotel

Very interesting. I didn't know about the Bemelmans bar at the Carlyle. I see that the murals painted by Bemelmans are scenes of Central Park and NYC rather than Paris. Now I need to make another trip to NYC.

Dick: the hardest part of the whole surprise thing is it forces me to be rude when I don't want to when speaking with others maybe on the way to the airport or fellow travelers/hotel owners asking me where we are heading next.
You sound like a jerk telling them you cannot say where you are headed or have to get into a long explanation/conversation about how it is a surprise trip, lol

...." Curious to know Madeline is a US thing, I thought somewhere there is a café dedicated to it and thought it was in Paris (was just looking myself this morning via Google with no luck) and now that you mention this I recall that place may be in NYC not Paris at all. "...... Madeline IS a NY City incarnation , The stories are by an Austrian émigré ( 1914 ) named Ludwig Bemelmans who worked in the Hotel business and eventually drifted into writing and illustration . The Café you are looking for is " Bemelmans Bar " in the Carlyle Hotel on Madison Avenue at 76th Street . The Madeline murals are well worth a visit . In addition to the Madeline books , Bemelmans memoirs are very worthwhile reading . They will tell you of a bygone time and tug at your heartstrings . Out of print , but a few dollars will get this book , http://www.amazon.com/Tell-Them-It-Was-Wonderful/dp/0070044538 The stories about " The Hotel Splendide " are of particular note , and the section in one chapter about the " child piccolo " is not to be missed . EDIT - 7:50 PM EST - For anyone interested in the above mentioned book , the description of the child piccolo begins on page 55 thru page 58

Sorry , but not having read the whole thread , I see that you have already found this information . I didn't mean to be redundant . I'm looking for my copy of the memoirs , and will post the page in the book where the " child piccolo " section is . In any event , now you must come to NY and see the murals for yourself ;--)

No worries, thanks for the background information about it.

I don't have children, but especially if I did, if I only had 4 days in Paris, I would spend them all in Paris. So much to do and see. Lots of parks for kids. Your day trip ideas are all excellent for adults (except Disneyland), and I would do any of them without a three year old. But even with a three year old I would not spend one of my four precious days in Paris at Disneyland. Stay in Paris and do day trips on your next visit.
Lisa from Tampa, been to Paris 4 times

Here's another perspective on Reims. It's a very easy trip, even if you are trying to plan fairly close to your date of departure (just make sure you reserve the TGV trains both ways rather than the local trains, which can be kind of a drag). If you are really into Champagne, I say go for it! I've visited a lot of the houses in/around Reims, but you should make sure they would welcome your daughter by doing a little searching (eg, I was going to suggest the Veuve Cliquot tour, but it looks like you must be legal drinking age to take the tour). If they don't have a problem with your daughter, we've also taken a van tour operated by Cris Events, which was great because it visited several small houses in Hautvillers (which is Champagne mecca). He picks you up right at the tourist information office directly outside the Reims train station. We were somehow the only ones on the tour that day so had the entire van and guide to ourselves! It was fast-paced and moved around enough that I think you could distract your daughter by pointing out sites on the drive or one of you could step outside with her.

Reims is very walkable and pleasant, and nice to get a bit of a feel for places outside of Paris.

I'm not sure if I agree with the other posters re Versailles -- you see an awful lot of families and children there. It's just about adjusting your expectations -- so maybe planning to focus more on longer walks through the gardens with lots of stops for snacks and rests, or taking a boat ride on the grand canal, versus spending hours fighting the crowds inside. If you aren't super intent on seeing every aspect of the palace itself, it's perfectly pleasant (and free!!!!!) to walk around the gardens (http://en.chateauversailles.fr/prepare-my-visit-/single/faq-en#jardinspayants), although I'm not sure about the stroller issue in the gardens versus the palaces. I can say that the outer park is also lovely and DEFINITELY stroller friendly (and also free), and the fields are full of sheep and goats and other critters to gawk at. Also, the little town of Versailles is quite pleasant and gives you a totally different feeling than being in Paris.

So it just depends on what you're hoping to do. But whatever way you go, you will have fun!!!

Omg, with only 4 nights in Paris (and the fact that your wife has never been there), I agree with Lisa from Tampa -- stay in Paris!
Unless you're in cities too much while on vacation in Italy, I would relax a bit instead of traveling out of the city.

Paris is one of the most beautiful cities in the world; also one of the most romantic. There is great food, great views, great window shopping, amazing people-watching! The French have the cutest children's clothing &, in general, they dote on well-behaved kids.

I would recommend the Jardin du Luxembourg with it's lovely pond where kids float their toy or motorized boats.
This is in the 5th arrondisement. There are places for kids to play & run around. On the weekend you'll see Parisians flocking here. The last time I visit in the summer of 2014, there was a band playing American classics!
http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71393/Jardin-du-Luxembourg

You can eat French "glace" (ice cream) at Bertillon on the Ile St. Louis This is the most famous ice cream store in Paris.
http://parisbymouth.com/berthillon/

Have a picnic on the Champs De Mars while gazing up at the Eiffel Tower.
http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-museum-monument/71152/Parc-du-Champ-de-Mars

To start off the day, I've enjoyed a traditional French breakfast at Angelina on Rue de Rivoli (1st arr). It's great at snack time too.
They make one of the best hot chocolates in the world and the salon is incredibly beautiful.
http://parisbymouth.com/our-guide-to-paris-angelina/

Your family might enjoy going to the Canal-St- Martin where you can take a short boat ride. There is a bridge that raises to allow the boat to go by. This canal became well-known because of film "Amelie"

For your photography interest, I would recommend visiting Sacre Coeur Basilica in Montmartre for it's panoramic view.
http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com/english/visit-and-audio-guide/article/sacre-coeur-seen-from-the-sky

So many things to do (!). But remember to savor the experience.

Lastly, here's a link on Paris for kids:
http://www.timeout.com/paris/en/kids-activities/50-things-for-kids-to-do-in-paris

Bon Voyage!

P,S. I've traveled to Paris countless time and it never fails to delight and fascinate me. I'm sure it will also be this way with your family. Lastly, speaking French (even a little bit--merci/bonjour/au revoir/s'il vous plait) is a good thing. The local people will be so much nicer to you. .

Thank you Joanna
Some good points and extremely useful links.

I am very excited to compare the best ice cream in Paris to some of Italy's best gelato!
And will definitely try out Angelina on Rue de Rivoli since we be so close for breakfast and definitely later for some hot chocolate, that sounds like something my wife would love!
Jardin du Luxembourg is definitely on the list!

We may find we have too much to do in too little time which is why ideally I would have a day trip or two all mapped out but nothing committed or not refundable paid for that is more than I would be willing to lose if we elect to stay in Paris and not leave the city during our stay. My plan is to let my wife make the call once there and settled as we go over everything there is to do.

Sacré-Coeur I am not sure I will make it to, is a bit far away and photographically for me it would only have interest in the evening, "blue hour type shot" which would be after sunset when the lights of the city come on but before it gets truly dark out.
Trying to keep my must photo spot list small (less than 10 in Paris) so it does not take up the vacation, will take the typical tourist snap shots and pictures of our daughter most everywhere of course like everyone else does.
Not sure yet if I want to take the camera everywhere or use my Iphone for snapshot/vacation pics and only use the camera for the serious stuff - mainly due to pickpocket/camera theft concerns than inconvenience or weight. Solo with tripod in hand (not much different than a baseball bat) I look like an extremely poor choice of target but without one and trying to juggle a 3 year old mid-day in busy Paris I could be off my guard and be a target.

Definitely want to do a boat ride of some type along the river.
Mass on Sunday at Notre Dame is something I think my wife will want to do.
Hoping to talk her out of actually going up the Eiffel Tower but not sure I will be successful at that, does not seem worth the stairs or the long lines to avoid the stairs to me compared to other views but I could be wrong and understand it is a thing to "must do" when there.

I fear the cost of all of the cute, amazingly well made French children's clothing which my wife will be all over for our daughter but our budget may not allow ; so that is kind of a good and bad thing from my point of view. Guess it is better than her buying something at Chanel, LV, etc...

I completely agree I would love to make sure my wife and I can at least know the key words and understand the respect factor of at least starting off a conversation with a French opening phrase before switching to English.
This is a concern for me as I am not very good with languages, my wife is excellent but will only have 1 hour plane ride basically to look at it. Part of me thinks in Italy maybe I should spill the beans a couple of nights before our flight from Venice and we can read up in a hotel at night there?

Hi, I am late to thread..

I vote Disneyland.. which is not my usual response.. but you add that you will have already dragged child through a bunch of sightseeing in Italy.. so a child orientated day makes sense to me.. she will enjoy it.. and its an easy daytrip. And lets face it.. there is nothing better than watching a child that age be amazed..

I am glad you eliminated Versailles.. would have been a horror show for child and you .

Just a thought about the camera situation, I was worried about bringing my DSLR with us to Europe last year because of all of the hype of pickpockets. But after a lot of research, I found that most people were not concerned about the theft of cameras because they are more difficult to liquidate. Unless you leave the camera completely unattended on a table or stroller, the thieves would rather grab a wallet for the cash. I'm not saying that nobody ever gets their camera stolen, but I carried ours around comfortably for two and a half weeks using basic precautions, and never felt insecure about it. I just kept it in front of me when walking and when sitting in usually stored it on my lap, or between my feet. Hope you have a great trip!

Thanks Tamara, good to know.

Definitely leaning Disney myself for benefit of our daughter and even considering prebooking the tickets despite my earlier plan because the expensive tickets can be bought in advance for weekdays for $100 less than buying day of or day before for 3 people
Need to step back and think harder about doing that cause it was not my original plan.

Thank you woinparis for the kind words and encouragement!

Is your daughter a "young Three" or an " almost Four"? Does she still take naps?

I am going to agree with Lisa and others who suggest you skip Disneyland. You have only three full days in Paris, and I cannot imagine using one of them to visit a theme park she will enjoy much more when she is a bit older. Take her to Florida or California, whichever combines better with other vacation wishes ( beaches, national parks, etc.). I am a native Californian and grew up so close to Disneyland I cannot count how many times I went as a child, but I was already eight when they opened and that was a good age to start. My own children were 5 and 8 when I took them, so they enjoyed the rides. I observe that they both have 3- year-olds now and have said they will wait several years before doing the Disneyland thing.

Paris has wonderful parks and playgrounds which your daughter will enjoy very much. I know this not from personal experience but from my sister---she and her husband took their kids to Italy and Paris when they were age 2 and 5. She was most impressed with Paris and how child-friendly it is. It was one of her favorite vacations because they did not rush around to see any "important" sights, they just relaxed and took it easy, enjoying playgrounds, ice cream stops and other pleasures at will.

Just my two euro cents' worth.

She will be almost 4 when we will be there. She is better than most in regard to naps. At day care which she goes most days she usually naps but then does not want to go to sleep at 8 PM and is a challenge to have her sleeping by 9 ; when not at day care she rarely naps and though can be a little restless/moody come 7 PM she goes right to sleep around 7:30 with no fuss.
Her afternoon behavior does not differ much nap or no nap. She is fully potty trained and good about giving us some advance when she needs to go so while I anticipate challenges traveling she is good for her age.
In my limited experience girls this age are much less hyperactive than boys, so finding open spaces and things like that are really not a concern for me. Like I imagine all 3 year olds a basic swing and slide is heaven.
Previous amusement parks have been a mixed bag due to her age you don't know if she will be shy and not want to go on any rides or do much of anything or be adventurous that given day.

I really have no desire to go to Orlando (have been as a child and later for work multiple times as an adult) it is more the inevitable vacation than the enjoyable vacation that will bring me there. Love California but envision one year we will be stuck doing the Orlando week long thing so would rather skip Disney LA.

If you asked me a month ago about this trip Disney Paris would have never even come to my head and I have no actual personal desire to go vs. numerous places I would like to see in Paris and in general prefer to be more relaxed and take in Paris rather than race about seeing sites.
It is was only when looking into it I realized how easy it would be to go there as a day trip that got me thinking and as another poster had mentioned me rethinking the rest of the trips demands on our daughter that this would be a nice way to cap off the trip with a day for her. Not that I expect her to remember much, but just to make the whole trip enjoyable as a whole.
The downside is of course it does make our time in Paris more rushed.

Back to my original post, I was mainly thinking of Reims for my wife's interest but the more I think it over, my wife is going to choose a daytrip to Disney for our daughter over Champagne for her 99% of the time.
There is no doubt we will come to France at some point, there are many places we want to see and I envision that would be a vacation that starts or ends in Paris and otherwise involves a rental car touring various parts of the large country. May need two different trips in fact to see all of the areas we would want to.