Paris and Dordogne questions

Addressing your questions about Paris -

To me "3 days" means 4 nights so is that what it means to you as well? One full day will be given over to Giverny which gives you 2 days to do the Louvre (closed Tuesdays) and your smaller museum (The Cluny Museum is small and can be seen in a couple of hours). You don't need to book your boat trip on the Seine beforehand, you can just do that at the time when it's convenient. Although I've not done it, you do need to book the Moulin Rouge and be sure to read the website as there is a dress code.

I've been to Sarlat, the Dordogne and Bordeaux but it was on a Road Scholar tour so I didn't have to figure out any of the transportation pieces, lol.

I visited the Dordogne Valley in September and thought it was the ideal time to be there with the leaves turning but still warm. Very pretty. And the flower decorations were still up in St. Cyprien, which had hosted the Felibree that July. This year it's in Sarlat.
I don't recommend staying in Sarlat, especially with a car, because parking is a hassle. There is a car rental office there, maybe a mile or so from the old town center. The train station wasn't super convenient, as I recall, and you have to go through Bordeaux anyway, so maybe just plan to get the car there. The up side is that, with a car, you can stay anywhere that suits your needs and budget. Lots of pretty little towns around, many with very nice markets, so do a broad map search for whatever type of place you want to stay and find the one you like the best. I'm an AirBnB person. In France, you can also look for a gite, which is the French word for holiday rental house.
With two weeks total, I would add a couple of days to Paris. It's a big city with a lot to see and do. A big feature, for me, is just strolling and taking it all in. And 10 days is a lot in Dordogne.

First, transportation: I suggest you start in the Dordogne region and end your trip in Paris. This makes your flight home convenient. Arriving in Sarlat is a bit more complicated. If you fly into Paris, it is a very long drive to Sarlat and there are no direct trains between Paris and Sarlat. One option is to fly into Paris (or any of a number of other major cities, not necessarily in France) and then fly to Bordeaux. Another option is to go to the Montparnasse Station in Paris and take the highspeed train from Paris to Bordeaux. Once in Bordeaux you could spend your first night there and pick up a rental car the next morning. Another option is to continue your travels on that long first day, and take the 35 minute train from Bordeaux to St. Emilion. My personal preference would be to fly in and out of Paris, and use the train to Bordeaux and then the train on to St. Emilion. St. Emilion is small, walkable, and a good place to spend your first 2 nights in France. It's been a number of years since I was last there, but I have very positive memories of Logis des Cordeliers, a b&b. Pick up your rental car to arrive in Sarlat.

Using Sarlat as your "home base" for the Dordogne is a good choice. It's centrally located and just big enough to offer plenty of restaurants and things to do. As another person noted, driving and parking in the center of Sarlat can be a problem, particularly on market days when some streets are closed to traffic. My suggestion is to stay at Maison Pierre D'Or because it's located on the edge of town and has its own private parking. It's only a few minutes walk into Sarlat, and equally convenient to the main roads you'll use to visit other towns in the Dordogne. Our apartment there was absolutely clean, spacious, attractively furnished, and we enjoyed relaxing on our private balcony.

Going from Sarlat to Paris again has multiple options and I'm sure you will be getting many suggestions on this Forum. Basically, you could drive back to Bordeaux, or you could drive north from Sarlat to any major city with rapid train service to Paris. For example, you could drive toward Limoges and spend a few hours at nearby Oradour-sur-Glane and then take the train from Limoges to Paris. There are many possibilities and I'd select an option with a bit of sight-seeing.

Let us know how your itinerary develops.

Dordogne: we two drove there and stayed several nights in Sep 2021. Our trip report might be useful reference. It was a wonderful experience. Trip report (parts 3 and 4): https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-france-28-days-aug-sep-loire-dordogne-languedoc-roussillon-lyon-burgundy-honfleur

yes, I was thinking 4 nights in paris for 3 full days--we are not big city people but we are going to be in Paris so need to see a few things! I know it would be impossible to see all or even most of the Louvre--so a tour to see highlights would be what I am looking at. thanks for the ideas on getting to the Dordogne area.

Geoff--that sounds like an amazing trip! Your report on the Dordogne area sounds like what I want to do, Thanks!

Villa des Consuls is also near the edge of Sarlat and has an arrangement with a parking garage for a reasonable fee. I also wrote a trip report that includes the Dordogne last year. You can find it under my profile by clicking on my name.

The Dordogne and nearby Lot valley are wonderful. We went in early April. I think May or October would be nice.

debjsd,
So glad to hear of your plans to visit the Dordogne region. We spent 10 days there in June 2023. I'll give you a brief report of our stay in case anything will be of help to you. Sarlat would be difficult by train. Brive-la-Gillarde is the station you would probably arrive at (and pick up a car also). The train ride would not be my first choice. The TGV to Bordeaux from either CDG or Paris would be worth it, and the drive to the Dordogne from Bordeaux, on the smaller D roads, would give you a nice vision of the countryside.

We were coming from Marseille, so arrived at Bordeaux by train and picked up our rental car (car rental offices are at the station). We stayed one night (had parking at our lodging) and enjoyed a nice meal and stroll around town. Next morning we left for our gite (rental) between Vitrac and La Roque Gageac, It took 3-3 1/2 hours and we stopped for lunch on the way, adding about an hour. I recommend checking with gites-de-france for some lodging outside of Sarlat, which is a pain to drive in and out of, plus has a dearth of parking. A lot of street parking is pay and sometimes has limits.

The next day our kids and grandkids arrived. There were seven of us total, so we had two cars. The towns and villages and sights we visited were all a relatively short drive away (Sarlat 10-15 minutes, Lascaux IV about 25-30 minutes, Castelnaud 10 minutes, Beynac 10 minutes, the departure for our kayak trip less than 10 minutes, Domme 10 minutes, Les Eyzies 20 minutes) The western side of the area, where we spent most of our time, has many, many lovely villages, and you could find some terrific lodging outside of Sarlat if you wish. Sarlat has two big market days, but each day there are markets at one town or another. In the summer some villages have night markets, which are more than the markets...there is music, dancing, prepared dishes for eating, communal tables to share with others while you eat. Kind of a block party!

Sights we really liked (or loved): Beynac Castle, Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, Grotte de Font de Gaume, Lascaux IV, kayaking on the Dordogne, wandering around Dromme, troglodyte dwellings at Les Eyzies, shopping at small local markets for meal ingredients, tasting samples at a chocolaterie, going to grocery stores and bakeries and patisseries. We didn't get to and wished we had....Chateau Des Millandes, the Prehistory Museum at Les Eyzies (it was closed the day we were there), a walnut orchard, wineries (Monbazillac is the local wine, a little sweet), the cathedral in Sarlat, Perigeux.....and this doesn't include the eastern part of the area.

The younger ones arrived on day 2 and left on day 10. They all drove back to Bordeaux and took a plane the next day for the trip home (changing planes at CDG. We drove to Bordeaux day 11, spent 2 nights there (did some sightseeing) returned the car at the station (Gare St. Jean) and took the TGV to Paris. A cousin took us from there to our hotel at CDG. We flew home the next day.

As you can see, we chose to drive from Bordeaux, but partly because we hadn't been there before. It is a neat city with lots going for it (I'll leave those details out here). My hints, in short: have a car, stay outside of Sarlat (but do go in and visit this beautiful town), canoe or kayak the river, visit at least one castle and at least two prehistoric caves, taste the local foods (pate, honey, walnut desserts, something with truffles, duck, Bergerac wines), plan a day's drive through some of the "most beautiful villages of France".
That's all I can remember at the moment. Amusez-vous bien!

Oops! Typo! Domme, not Dromme!

Take a train from Paris to Brive which is about 20 miles from Sarlat. Brive has lots of rental car agencies. Avoid picking up or returning your car on weekends since many rental car agencies are closed Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday. With ten days for the Dordogne, you might want to choose accommodations in two locations so you don't have to drive so far for your day trips.

“yes, I was thinking 4 nights in paris for 3 full days--we are not big city people but we are going to be in Paris so need to see a few things!”

Well, I will tell you I am completely not a city gal, yet Paris has captured me. I stay in a fairly residential area so when I come home it’s more restful than some places I’ve stayed on busier streets. I’m glad you are thinking 4 nights! You won’t het much done on arrival day.

The train to Bordeaux would be quickest and easiest. We rented from the airport and had no issues driving through Bordeaux. We were there early October last year and it was quiet as most of the tourists had gone home. Weather was still nice. Here's my Trip Report if you're interested. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-part-2-hills-and-castles-dordogne

Another option would be to fly into Toulouse and rent a car there. That's what I did last year, for a couple reasons. I wanted to see Airbus and Andorra, and I'd heard interesting things about Toulouse also, so that worked out very well for me. The rental was less expensive, the drive is almost the same, and I got to stop and try pate at a couple places on the drive to Lascaux which added to my pleasure.

If you do go to Bordeaux, don't forget to plan on spending some time there also.

The weather in May this year has been fantastic. I was in Normandy a couple weeks ago and it was high 60s-low 70s during the day. The next week was a bit cooler, but everyone is praying for rain.

Remember to take a light jacket with you if you go in the caves, they can be cold.

How to get there: I would take the high-speed, TGV train to Bordeaux and pick up a rental car at the train station. You could take trains to Sarlat where there is a tiny train station but you would have to change trains at least once as I recall. On my upcoming trip from Sarlat I expect to drive to Bordeaux and get my (early-purchased-cheaper-priced) train ticket to Paris. You can purchase tickets online in advance. That said, I once took a train from the center of Paris to Limoges on my way to Sarlat. I've also driven between Paris and Sarlat but it's much easier and, with the TGV. faste than driving. Or as suggested by Anita you could fly into Paris or another major city in Europe and fly to Bordeaux. I've also done that. One caveat: try to get both flights with one reservation so if your plane is delayed arriving at your 1st destination and you miss your 2nd plane they have to get you to Bordeaux.

When to go? May-early June would be an excellent time. I always try for May or September (maybe October). The weather is cooler's with fewer crowds. BUT it certainly can rain. I always bring rain shoes, rain hat and rain jacket or coat but don't worry about many woolen layers. Also, umbrellas are easy to buy in Paris or Sarlat.
And YES! Spend 10 of your days in the Dordogne. The most beautiful place I've ever seen. Not sure if your allotted time for Paris is enough to do everything but I would definitely not skip a boat ride on the Seine. I think the smaller boat that you catch at the point (down river end) of Cite for ride at sunset or just after is unbeatable. Ask at their booth what time they would recommend. They know when the lights switch on the Eiffel Tower.
And I concur with G3rryCee about not staying in Sarlat with the car. Many wonderful places to stay outside of town. Gites de France lists weekly rentals. There are also offerings on VRBO but tend to be a little more pricey. Still, not bad. Especially for what you get and compared to Paris! Also lovely Chambre d'hotes (B&B). But I think weekly rentals with a kitchen can't be beat. There are so many great markets with wonderful vegetable/fruit/cheese/poultry/meat/olives etc. . In any case, you probably want to spend some time in Sarlat. My favorite town in the world.
I wish you bon voyage!

Hi debjsd! I'm going to echo a few posters comments. To get to Sarlat area, the easiest (and quickest) ways are to take a TGV train from Paris Montparnasse to Bordeaux St. Jean, then rent a car at the bordeaux train station (almost every rental agency is there.) Or fly from Paris to Bordeaux Mérignac and rent a car from the airport. The drive from the train station is roughly 2h15-2h45 add about 30+ mins on to the drive from the airport. The train from Bordeaux St. Jean to Sarlat is direct (no need to change trains) and takes about 2h45 but there are not a lot of rental car options once you are in Sarlat.

As others have said, I'd stay outside of Sarlat and split your time between a couple of places depending on what you want to visit. One of the other posters gave a wonderful and comprehensive list, which will be a good starting point for your activity planning. There is so much to do and see in this area that you are sure to fill 10 days easily.

Regarding where to stay, I'd start by researching your lodging options on Gîtes de France. There are so many charming places in this area that it's hard to pick.

Your timing for the area is perfect. The weather is currently sunny and warm (around 75-ish degrees) though we have been having isolated thunderstorms in the evenings. Early June is also a nice time to go though there is usually an uptick in tourists by June. May is still a bit lighter on crowds but everything is open for the season. September is also nice, can be pretty hot still but crowds are less and some tourist attractions start to shut down for season the later in September.