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Paris, Alsace, Burgundy and Provence in 2 weeks - should I adjust anything?

Having been warned about the difficulties of travelling France by train from East to West and vice versa, I have roughly put together an itinerary that I believe should show me a great deal of France in the time that I have that works along the train routes.

What I wanted to ask is whether or not I should adjust the tentative time spent in each location (i.e. in favour of spending more time elsewhere) and whether perhaps there are other places I should visit in substitution of those places on my list at present.

I am currently thinking for June 2023 (this is really far in advance, I know - I am horribly scared of flying so the more I plan this trip the more excitement will build which will hopefully accumulate enough to get me onto that plane!):
- 4 days in Paris including a day trip to Mont St Michel via guided tour
- 3 days in Strasbourg with a day trip via guided tour to Colmar, Riquewihr and Eguisheim
- 2 days in Dijon with a day in Beaune
- 2 days in Lyon
- 3 days in Avignon with a day trip to Aix en Provence

Things to bear in mind:
1) I am a fast traveller - I don't dawdle when I travel and without actually rushing at monuments and attractions (by my standards), I see a lot in any given day
2) I will be relying on buses, trains and planes as I do not drive so everywhere on my list or other places that may be included in substitution for others must be easily accessible via public transport
3) I have been to Paris previously so can spend one less day there in lieu of somewhere else if recommended
4) I am a huge history nerd - the Middle Ages (and then some) is my jam

With that all taken into account, should I adjust my itinerary in any way re time spent in places or by considering alternate locations?

Posted by
5581 posts

Have you used google maps or similar to determine how long it will take you to get to each place? Or you could use oui to get a sense of travel time for the trains.

I personally would not do Mont St Michel on a day trip. We really enjoyed MSM in the late afternoon and evening and then again right away in the morning when it opens. Then we were finished when the crowds started to show up at about 11:30/noon.

Posted by
32 posts

@JulesM I have structured this draft itinerary based on direct train lines and most of the journeys are 1.5-3 hours by direct train so I will be planning to travel by train either in the morning before attractions open or in the late afternoon after a day of travelling when I am ready to do nothing but sit for a few hours.

How did you get to MSM? I had thought to perhaps go to Rouen and travel to MSM from there (albeit still a journey to make) but from what I read you can only really get to MSM from Rouen via car and most tours depart from Paris.

Posted by
2948 posts

From Paris you’re planning a day trip to Mont St Michel? It takes 4h to get there and requires a connection. I suggest cutting out Provence and sleep at Mont St-Michel one night and assume you’ll return and explore Provence then. I feel you need more time in Provence than three nights.

Posted by
32 posts

@MaryPat I actually don't mind the travel taken into MSM (I'd go via a tour) because I can't justify staying in Normandy just for it and then would need to drive anyway. I'd definitely rather the lengthy day trip in lieu of not seeing it at all.

Posted by
6888 posts

Hi,
You seem really set on seeing Mont Saint Michel from Paris. It is feasible, but in terms of travel time by road, it is like making a day trip to DC from New York. If you are willing to take the fast train to Rennes and either the public bus (no need to drive!) or a tour from there if available, it becomes marginally more pleasant, but still a very, very long day.
If the Middle Ages is your jam, as you put it, you will definitely get a kick out of spending the night there!
And if you feel short of time, I would just skip Lyon instead.

Posted by
15 posts

Hi there

I'm a Canadian longtime expat and have visited all the places you list, often multiple times.

Even keeping in mind you're a fast traveller, your schedule is packed. What I'd skip:

  1. MSM. It's a huge out & back trip and nothing else you want to see is in that region of France. If you do it as a daytrip you'll be there with a billion tourists. And it's small. If you don't like to linger, it will be a real letdown. As an overnight it could be worth it. You might also want to combine with a visit to Bayeux in Normandy en route to see the Bayeux tapestry.

Another alternative: visiting Angers. Unlike the other Loire Valley chateaux which are all renaissance, Angers has a medieval castle in imposing dark stone. I also find the town more "real" and less completely-devoted to tourism compared to the other towns/villages further east. It is accessible from Paris by TGV and the trip is faster than to MSM.

  1. When in Paris, go to nearby Provins. Google it. French people love it, Anglo-Saxons haven't seem to have heard of it.

  2. Dijon. Most boring town ever. Spend more time in Beaune area - it's super easy to rent a bike or ebike and zip around wineries and taste world-class wines. The tourist board has put a lot of effort of getting people out into the little wine villages that are ridiculously close to Beaune. I believe there is also a monastery a the area too, which might be of interest if you're a middle-ages nerd!

  3. Old Avignon (within the walled city) is very small and aside from the Palais de Papes there aren't many tourist attractions. Outside the old city, Avignon is quite ugly.

Arles has more tourists attractions (Arena, Van Gogh museum) plus you can get to Les Baux de Provence by bus I think. There is also St Remy de Provence nearby which sort of has a similar vibe to Aix en Provence but much smaller.

The view alone from Baux de Provence is worth the trip - looks on a beautiful valley full of olive groves.

Aix is a lovely small city but doesn't have many sights. It's a city for strolling and drinking up atmosphere, so might not be your thing. Also it's on the other side of Provence, with the gorgeous Luberon area in between.

Without a car, you will miss the most charming part of the Provence - the Luberon villages...and the scenic drives you can take to get there in a small car. Tour buses will have to use bigger less charmer roads.

=== Overall ===

Without a car and being big into to medieval history, I question whether heading further south than Lyon is worth it. Your itinerary will have you spending an awful lot of time in transit.

Posted by
7295 posts

MSM uses up a lot of time. Your preferred touring speed may make hours of travel insufferable (?) France has plenty of less famous substitutes-for example, you haven't mentioned Perouges, or the citadel of Besancon, which fit your itinerary better. Maybe Google "medieval villages France." Too bad to go to MSM and miss Dinan, St. Malo, dol de Bretagne, Bayeux, Vitré.

Have you budgeted any 3-star meals? Reservations will be essential, and taxi planning.

Posted by
32 posts

@sehosking I am considering staying at MSM overnight though I think it may be a bit impractical. I know it is a big trip but genuinely don't mind it - I know some people really don't like MSM but I feel like I will regret not going.

I will look into Provins and Baux de Provence, they sound great!

I would love to see the Lavender trail and Luberon so I definitely think we will go via tour. I fully appreciate we may not see the best of them in a tour group but I have no intention of driving overseas.

Posted by
32 posts

@Tim I don't have time to see Normandy or Brittany on top of everything else in the time that I will be there for. I am hoping to perhaps see Perouges and Annecy while in Lyon and will see whether Besancon is feasible from Dijon or Lyon.

As much as I would love to see it all and do it all it just isn't feasible without another week or two that I don't have. I don't mind the time for MSM and would prefer to spend the day there than at Bayeux for instance but each to their own.

Won't be doing any Michelin restaurants - don't have the budget for that kind of dining and it isn't really what I care so much to experience, at least not at this time in my life anyway.